For anyone contemplating cleaning their rifle with gasoline, or naphtha, white fuel, what have you, please don't. not only are you damaging the wood by drying it out, one spark and you're off to the hospital with terrible 3rd degree burns if lucky, if unlucky you'll also be explaining to an insurance entity why it is that you're a sh1thead when you get out of the hospital.
Just back from the farm. All 5 rounds on the 6 inch resetting popper @ 100 yards.
This was just off the hood of the truck so I am calling it good to go out of the box.
Will wait till I can get on the bench and punch some holes in paper to see it it needs fine tuning.
I got my K98 yesterday and i am struggling to remove the rings on the front of the rifle. Mine is a 1944 version, were these years braze welded on? Any tricks, cant even depress the spring to allow the front one to slide.
Get a small aluminum or brass punch and a small tack hammer. Use a clamp to depress the band spring, then use the punch and tack hammer to tap the front band forward along the rear edge. The soft punch will smear metal onto the band, but it will come right off with fine steel wool.
After you degrease everything it will be easier to remove/install in the future.
Keeping it real on the range since before there was a CGN.
This is poor, fear mongering advice.
Certainly don't soak the stock in whatever solvent, but if it's all someone has handy a little of your favorite hydrocarbon mix (except possible the gas because the additives might do funny stuff) on a rag will take stubborn deposits straight off with no damage done, and the metal parts you can be generous with. Acetone/MEK is preferred though.
With just the slightest bit of sense it works perfectly.
Even with a token amount of ventilation even an open container is not going to generate anywhere near enough fumes to cause a flash over. Work with as little as possible at a time, do it in open air, and hold off on the ciggy until you've put everything away and cleaned up and the risk is next to none. While it certainly possible to cause a hell of a fire with solvents, somehow millions of people a day use paint-thinners and a like without ending up in the burn ward. And that's all you're doing here, thinning one hydrocarbon mix with a more volatile one for ease of removal.
People these days are conditioned to be scared of their own shadow.
Last edited by Goose762; 07-08-2016 at 10:13 PM. Reason: paint thinner not pain thinner
"The darkest places in hell are reserved for those who maintain their neutrality in times of moral crisis." - Dante Alighieri
"This whole war could have been avoided. Cunnilingus and psychiatry brought us to this." - Tony Soprano
Cleaned mine tonight and Its going to look AWESOME!
Stock took the most work, currently having it hanging in front of the industrial fan after the first coat of true oil
use for metal parts
-mineral spirits
-crud cutter aerosol spray
(barrel) used metal bore cleaner and crud cutter and after a wash in mineral spirits was pristine
washed it all off with the hose then compressed air and spray of oil then wipe.
Wood
- wipe with mineral spirits
- alternate with
Tilex (non bleach) and degreaser then hosed it off with water and repeated until it rinsed essentially clear.
looking forward to seeing the final product when i get it back together
the foregrip ring was a real chore to get off, I made a protector of cardboard and cloth then used a vice grip to contact the spring and tapped it off from the bottom with a screwdriver and handle of another driver. presprayed crud cutter all over the ring too in hopes it would loosen things up and it worked.