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Thread: Grease on the yugo capture K98

  1. #31
    CGN Regular Markzdb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eaglelord17 View Post
    Definitely shoot it at 100m before you do anything to the sight. These are sighted in for the distances on the sight... 100 for 100m, 200 for 200m etc. Shooting it at 25m with a 100m setting then saying the sight is too high is a poor way to determine if it is actually zeroed properly. Making sure your using the proper ammo will also determine if you sight is off as well. The loading that would have been used for these rifles is a 198grn bullet at 2500 ft/sec.
    Sorry I was wrong, I tried both 50m and 100m not 25m. It shoots 6 inches low and 6 inches left at 100m. I was using ppu 198grn fmjbt.
    Last edited by Markzdb; 03-06-2016 at 11:20 AM.

  2. #32
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    For anyone contemplating cleaning their rifle with gasoline, or naphtha, white fuel, what have you, please don't. not only are you damaging the wood by drying it out, one spark and you're off to the hospital with terrible 3rd degree burns if lucky, if unlucky you'll also be explaining to an insurance entity why it is that you're a sh1thead when you get out of the hospital.

  3. #33
    CGN frequent flyer kawicrash's Avatar
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    Wow, they must have used a five pound mallet to strike the numbers on the floor plate!~
    Quote Originally Posted by Bulriver View Post
    Mine came today, spent the morning degreasing the metal with simple green and sweating the grease out by the wood stove. I have seen less grease used in repacking a wheel bearing.



    It is pretty much scrubbed, but found a few markings intact.



    Wood is pretty good and the metal is excellent. The sight markings are still in the white but only marked on the top.



    This is the crack near the stock as described in the ad. (K98-131) It is about 2 inches long. Anthony said wood filler would fix it.



    I am very pleased with my purchase. The bolt is slick and the trigger is a little creepy but with a lighter pull than the Mosins.

  4. #34
    CGN Regular Bulriver's Avatar
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    Just back from the farm. All 5 rounds on the 6 inch resetting popper @ 100 yards.

    This was just off the hood of the truck so I am calling it good to go out of the box.

    Will wait till I can get on the bench and punch some holes in paper to see it it needs fine tuning.

  5. #35
    CGN Regular Bulriver's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kawicrash View Post
    Wow, they must have used a five pound mallet to strike the numbers on the floor plate!~
    That is what they refer to as "Force" match:-)

  6. #36
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer philhut's Avatar
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    I got my K98 yesterday and i am struggling to remove the rings on the front of the rifle. Mine is a 1944 version, were these years braze welded on? Any tricks, cant even depress the spring to allow the front one to slide.

  7. #37
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer Claven2's Avatar
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    Get a small aluminum or brass punch and a small tack hammer. Use a clamp to depress the band spring, then use the punch and tack hammer to tap the front band forward along the rear edge. The soft punch will smear metal onto the band, but it will come right off with fine steel wool.

    After you degrease everything it will be easier to remove/install in the future.
    Keeping it real on the range since before there was a CGN.

  8. #38
    CGN Regular Goose762's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plinker 777 View Post
    For anyone contemplating cleaning their rifle with gasoline, or naphtha, white fuel, what have you, please don't. not only are you damaging the wood by drying it out, one spark and you're off to the hospital with terrible 3rd degree burns if lucky, if unlucky you'll also be explaining to an insurance entity why it is that you're a sh1thead when you get out of the hospital.
    This is poor, fear mongering advice.

    Certainly don't soak the stock in whatever solvent, but if it's all someone has handy a little of your favorite hydrocarbon mix (except possible the gas because the additives might do funny stuff) on a rag will take stubborn deposits straight off with no damage done, and the metal parts you can be generous with. Acetone/MEK is preferred though.
    With just the slightest bit of sense it works perfectly.


    Even with a token amount of ventilation even an open container is not going to generate anywhere near enough fumes to cause a flash over. Work with as little as possible at a time, do it in open air, and hold off on the ciggy until you've put everything away and cleaned up and the risk is next to none. While it certainly possible to cause a hell of a fire with solvents, somehow millions of people a day use paint-thinners and a like without ending up in the burn ward. And that's all you're doing here, thinning one hydrocarbon mix with a more volatile one for ease of removal.


    People these days are conditioned to be scared of their own shadow.
    Last edited by Goose762; 07-08-2016 at 10:13 PM. Reason: paint thinner not pain thinner

  9. #39
    CGN frequent flyer Bad Lieutenant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by plinker 777 View Post
    For anyone contemplating cleaning their rifle with gasoline, or naphtha, white fuel, what have you, please don't. not only are you damaging the wood by drying it out, one spark and you're off to the hospital with terrible 3rd degree burns if lucky, if unlucky you'll also be explaining to an insurance entity why it is that you're a sh1thead when you get out of the hospital.
    You speaking from personal experience?
    "The darkest places in hell are reserved for those who maintain their neutrality in times of moral crisis." - Dante Alighieri
    "This whole war could have been avoided. Cunnilingus and psychiatry brought us to this." - Tony Soprano

  10. #40
    CGN Ultra frequent flyer philhut's Avatar
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    Cleaned mine tonight and Its going to look AWESOME!

    Stock took the most work, currently having it hanging in front of the industrial fan after the first coat of true oil

    use for metal parts
    -mineral spirits
    -crud cutter aerosol spray
    (barrel) used metal bore cleaner and crud cutter and after a wash in mineral spirits was pristine
    washed it all off with the hose then compressed air and spray of oil then wipe.

    Wood
    - wipe with mineral spirits
    - alternate with
    Tilex (non bleach) and degreaser then hosed it off with water and repeated until it rinsed essentially clear.

    looking forward to seeing the final product when i get it back together

    the foregrip ring was a real chore to get off, I made a protector of cardboard and cloth then used a vice grip to contact the spring and tapped it off from the bottom with a screwdriver and handle of another driver. presprayed crud cutter all over the ring too in hopes it would loosen things up and it worked.

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