Questions about cartridges and recoil

[BigFuzzyHat]

Looking around online a common piece of advice I see for new shooters is to start with .22 rimfire to prevent yourself from developing a flinch. Is there an obvious natural progression/grouping of the popular rounds out there for a beginner to work their way through? Also is there an easy way to determine how much a given round is going to kick relative to other rounds out of a similar firearm by looking at its datasheet?

[Aniest]

I would say that the progression is up to you. I started with a .22LR, then up to a .223 bolt action and then to the 30 caliber non-magnum cartridges.

Kick is a product of energy so you could technically make a "gues-timate" by taking the muzzle foot pounds and the mass of the firearm into account. However, the abilities of the shooter have to come into effect as well. I have been shooting Weatherby Magnums, large bores and the like with thin recoil pads and without any muzzle brakes for years with no issues (I am in the 70Kg range). I know 100Kg plus men that think their .308 bolt action needs a muzzle brake. In my opinion, muzzle brakes are for magnums where maintaining target in the scope is crucial (long range work). A good butt pad is a better option than a muzzle brake. Heavier guns kick less but they are also tiring after a long day.

Proper fit and handling of the firearm is key.

Learn what you can handle by moving up, try other people's firearms and go from there.

[rral22]

I am unaware of an "ideal" progression that will be agreed upon as necessary.

Try this for an idea about how cartridges relate to each other in terms of recoil levels.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm

[Robert Nicholson]

Welcome to CGN! Using .22lr for your learning experience allows you to focus on all the fundamentals of shooting (sight picture, breathing, trigger control)
without being distracted by the recoil, noise and excitement (and expense) of the larger cartridges. After you have got the fundamentals learned, simply
move on to your prefered cartridge, although it would be good to progress to something intermediate like 7.62x39 or 30-30 or .223

Regarding relative kick; the more powder in the cartridge - the more kick, however, some rifles seem to deliver more "felt" recoil than others. This has to
do with rifle weight, action type, bullet weight and many other variables including personal differences.

Edit: Wow! rral22's link provides a wealth of information on this subject.

[BigFuzzyHat]

Thanks for the explanations and advice! I think I have a pretty good idea in my head of what to look into going forward, but it makes sense that the best way to figure it out will be to see how I handle various firearms/rounds myself. Also that page is awesome rral22!

[4n2t0]

Shooting a .22 will not help reduce a "future flinch". It's great for "learning experience...fundamentals of shooting...without the expense of the larger cartridges.", as previously mentioned, but will in no way prepare your body to react neutrally to the violent nature of larger calibres. The three things I find that help reduce a flinch are dry fire, double ear protection, and lots of practice. Remember, you're trying to train your body not to react naturally.

[Challenger2010]

Started with a 9 mm, moved up to a 45, and highest was a 50 caliber.

A 22 is a glorified pellet gun. You'll tire of it quickly.

Start with a 9mm.

[FLHTCUI]

I am unaware of an "ideal" progression that will be agreed upon as necessary.

Try this for an idea about how cartridges relate to each other in terms of recoil levels.

http://www.chuckhawks.com/recoil_table.htm

Someone beat me to it...
Some will flinch even with a .22.
Just takes some practice to get over it is all.
Rob

[Butcherbill]

Learn to enjoy recoil, it's fun. Well most times it's a fun part of shooting, lol. If you can learn to enjoy or at least not mind it you'll be one step ahead.

[red_bailey]

You didn't say rifle or pistol, and the style of shooting (e.g., hunting only, prone target work) can have an influence on the advice as well. But there's a lot of good information given already. I would advocate .22LR for fundamentals, then straight to whatever big-boy cartridge you want without intervening baby steps. (Unless your idea for a cartridge is a real experts' round like .450 Rigby or whatever.) There's nothing wrong with going to 9mm, then .357Mag, then .44Mag, if you're going to want to keep that 9mm, but if you have zero interest in 9mm and just want the big revolvers, no need to deprive yourself.

Starting with a .22 isn't a certain cure for flinch; using .22 practice to learn proper form, sight picture, and trigger control and _then_ consciously applying those to everything bigger can be. Just tell yourself, I have a firm grip here, no chance of dropping the gun, let's just pretend it's still a .22, and don't anticipate or try to control the kick. Much of that can be supplemented by dry fire, but there is no substitute for the actual recoil and hole-in-paper feedback of live rounds.

Spend a lot of time at the range. Much of your ‘flinch’ reaction is the natural effect of being around the sharp noise and concussion, which your body doesn't consider normal. First few times on a shooting line even a macho guy is likely to hop out of his shoes a little every time one goes off next to him. Plugs under muffs can definitely help with noise but not the blast. Same way you'd acclimate a gun dog to gunfire, it's exposure and not letting him get emotional.

When you can stand between a couple of guys kablamming .40s and .45s, with hot casings bouncing off of you, and concentrate only on *your* target and *your* trigger pull, then you know you've made it.