As to why some may want to run it without the op rod guide is that some hand guard replacement rails will not work with it, ultimak and voltor to name 2. That is assuming that yours is dimensionally different than standard based on the pics.
Shawn
As to why some may want to run it without the op rod guide is that some hand guard replacement rails will not work with it, ultimak and voltor to name 2. That is assuming that yours is dimensionally different than standard based on the pics.
Shawn
My Op Rod Guide is obviously much thicker and wider than the standard.
Yes, it's a point I should address. I tried my stock on a rifle with a UTG rail. It was a no go. The bottom of the rail interfered with the top of my stock. It wouldn't be too difficult for me to mill some extra material here prior to painting. The next question is the OP Rod Guide. I'm certain that there will be interference between the guide and the handguard, however I don't know how much material would have to be removed from each. I suspect (but don't know for sure) that it may be doable with some milling, sanding, and or dremmeling. Also, I suspect that it would be different for each brand of hanguard.
Having the customer remove material from the top of my stock to fit an aftermarket top rail is not a good thing. I can remove some extra material along the top edges if the customer requests it. Not a big deal. As to the fitting of the handguard, with the Op Rod Guide, I may be able to give it a go, but not having one in front of me I can't say other than I am certain that material will have to be removed.
I can make a stock that doesn't have an Op Rod Guide or the holes to mount one. I may be able to put my original (but very simple) barrel tensioning system on that stock as well. I've changed a few dimensions from my original prototypes so this would take a bit of work to sort out, although it's no more work in making the stock. That's what I was intending to say in the PM.
My stock isn't designed for aftermarket aluminum top rails. It goes against the design concept. If the customer wants it I'll see what I can do for you.
That being said, right now my focus is on getting some products out the door for people who like my design concept as it is. Once I have some happy customers then we can come back to this.
Also the question may have been asked because the gas system is unitized.
I was asked the following questions in a PM but it may be easier to answer them for everyone to see.
That depends. I have a list of people who have either said they want one of my stocks or they were interested in my stocks based on my prototypes. I'm giving them a few days to get back to me and then I'll have a chronological list and can let you know.Originally Posted by Private Message
Green, Black, Coyote Brown, any other colour that Armacoat makes for an additional charge. If enough people want a certain colour I'll make it standard for no additional charge.Originally Posted by Private Message
Yes. There have. That's the reason it took me so long to get the pics up. I wanted to try my stock on some different rifles first.Originally Posted by Private Message
I tried it on a Norino (purchased a year ago from North Sylva (not by me). It came with a synthetic stock) This receiver was different than mine. The back area of the tangs was not finished as square (was kind of rounded) I had to file and round a bit of material from my stock (where the back of the two tangs fit into the stock) to get it to fit. I'll do this on every one now so there shouldn't be any problems. Also the receiver was narrower than mine on the right side bedding surfaces. I thought all of the rifles coming from china used the same receiver forgings. I guess not. I have a couple 2007's. It's not a show stopper but if the side of your rifle isn't flush with the right side bedding surfaces of my stock (like it is in my pictures), it's your receiver and not my stock. Some receivers are narrower on the right side. This was news to me.
I've tried it on a Springfield M1A. For those wondering, yes the M1A right side bedding surfaces matched perfectly with the sides of my stock and were the same as my 2007. Unfortunately the pin that holds in the long Op Rod Guide on the M1A protrudes and either it needs to be ground or filed down so it sits flush (not hard to do) or I can remove some material from my stock. My stock is already designed to be super slim so I recommend the first method but either can be done.
I also tried it on a brand new in box Norinco, that came with a synthetic stock. It fit perfectly. Good Bedding, the receiver was flush as it should be with my stock on the right side bedding surface. The only potential issue was that the position of the front ferrule is moved rearwards slightly when compared with a 2007. As a result I'm taking a little bit more material off the front of my stocks so there aren't any potential rubbing issues here.
The hardest part of the install is removing the flash hider. There's lots of information on these forums as to how to do this, and there are M14 clinics that can help you to do this as well. Other than that it's not difficult.Originally Posted by Private Message
That being said I can do custom bedding adjustments to my stock to fit your rifle perfectly. I can grind a bit off the pin that protrudes out for an M1A (without damaging your receiver) and I can have a go at removing your flash hider, but I don't guarantee it won't have any dammage to it. I can send your rifle back installed in one of my stocks. For this I'll have to charge extra. Let's say $125. $75 if your flash hider has already been removed (and that's just because I don't like removing flash hiders). I may adjust these prices later. Of course you'll still need to install a scope mount and optic.
That's where it ends. I'm not a gunsmith. I don't pretend to be. I don't mess with headspace or barrel indexing or threading barrels or anything else. Also, you'll have to agree to a statement of liability that states it's your responsibility to ensure that your rifle is safe to fire.
Vancouver IslandOriginally Posted by Private Message
For everyone who has sent me a PM, I will respond, I'm just a little swamped right now.
Thank-you everyone for your comments.
I don't have an exact number for you but a quick calculation tells me it's about the same as 25-30 of the holes I drilled in the forestock of one of my prototypes. You can see a picture of what I'm talking about in my other thread.
My stock is light because I shaved everywhere I could and also because I shaved where it counts.
The stock is aluminum. I've shaved enough other places that it will still be light, even with that hole not there. If that's your preference it's not a problem.
As a mahinist, I'm curious to know what kind and brand of machine are you using... A 5-axis CNC milling ???
̿̿ ̿̿ ̿̿ ̿'̿'\̵͇̿̿\з=(•̀益•́)=ε/̵͇̿̿/’̿’̿ ̿ ̿̿ ̿̿
Kind of want a M14 now... Any plans to do mass production and possibility of it effecting price?
I know, it's going to be so awesome! /)^ε^(\
"Total for stock and all 4 rails 1.735 + 0.305 = 2.04 lbs"
wow...great work
top of my list
.
.
"Am I under oath,when I take the oath?" Nixon's Head-Futurama
Education Prevents Manipulation