Dry firing will not hurt it, it's a military rifle, a Norc at that. Rifles are dry fired to death during weapons training/classroom exercises.
Dry firing will not hurt it, it's a military rifle, a Norc at that. Rifles are dry fired to death during weapons training/classroom exercises.
At what times do firing pins break?
When searching up firing pin breaking, it's mostly related to dry firing. That makes me think that they do break at some point.
Under normal usage, the stress and force are applied to the soft metal on the primer. During dry firing, it's applied to the firing pin itself. The stress and strain must have some damage.
although this is not related to parts, is it possible to import the T97 RIS handguard rail system?
the T97 spare parts are in the same bin as the CZ 58 spare parts.
I have the type 95 RIS handguard but seems the new T97's front sight is a little bigger than the originally 95/t97, so the pieces that lock on the front sight can not be installed Not sure how stable the RIS is without the lock piece but will find out in the range soon~
I would assume that we will need the spare bolt, striker, gas regulator, gas piston and type 95 lower foregrip/handguard.
I wanted to re-use one of my existing slings, and try to find one that pairs well with this rifle without limiting myself to 0.75" sling options. I decided to take some 550 paracord and do it Israeli-style! The sling I found that worked the best for me was a "tactical" 2-point with metal clips, which also has a sheath that covered the clips. You can use a 1" sling instead, but might want to cut one or two 1" segments from something like a black ball-point disposable pen, or any other small tube that doesn't bend or break easily and allows the 550 to pass through. The tube will allow the sling to have a flat edge for it to wrap around without warping.
1) I start with 3-foot length of cord and make a small "alpine" butterfly knot, the smallest you can make that fits the 1" tube or clip, right in the middle of the cord. If you're using a tube, put it on the cord first and keep it in the middle before starting your butterfly. Pass the two ends through the 3/4" slot, and the butterfly knot shouldn't be able to fit through that slot.
2) Loop the ends back around through the slot again, keeping the butterfly loop in the middle, and then tighten down and make a simple overhand knot using both bitter ends.
3) Finally, terminate the ends with your favourite stopper knot. My favourite stopper is the Stevedore Knot. Be sure to pull any slack out of these knots while you're tightening, so that there is zero play. You can also soak the paracord first in water, so that when it dries it slightly shrinks, but be careful about rust if the metal surfaces near your knots are worn or lacking in corrosion protection. Cut the ends short (1/4") and melt with a lighter to limit fraying.
You will want to take the time to get this right, and nice and tight. Don't be afraid to cut it off and start over again.