need help

What do you suggest

It sounds like there is something wrong with your top punch and / or alignment.
That 311041 bullet is a flat nose, I'd use a generic flat top punch on it. That's what I use on all my flat nose bullets.

For better moulds, look at NOE and Accurate Molds.
 
.I did pound cast on bore its 308 .I went to next step and cast #2 lead in mold, boolits are proper shape ,now i went to my lyman 4500 with 309 lube sizer die continued to size and lube now boolits are out of shape. my question is am i sizing to small , putting to much pressure on bullit while sizing ? the mold im using is a 311041 . The 4500 appears to be in alignment, proper top punch. Should i be using a 310 or 311 lube sizer?

If I can, and I usually can, I like to do a two step. Forward through a lee so everything is lined up with the front (theoretically) and my check is on. Then I put them in the lube sizer to lube and lube only. Makes for very accurate cast BULLETS
 
I use a magma sizer, no nose punch needed, not much to go wrong. What I used to do for the 4500 if I didn't have a nose punch was to make one out of alu with a large cavity for the nose and then gently bed a bullets nose into it with epoxy with everything in the press for alignment. It sounds like your nose punch or press is out of wack. This idea may work but you will have to keep the punch oriented correctly in the future. If you discover this is the press I suggest you return it and buy a Star or maybe get into powder coat and Lee sizers and forget the 4500.
 
If I can, and I usually can, I like to do a two step. Forward through a lee so everything is lined up with the front (theoretically) and my check is on. Then I put them in the lube sizer to lube and lube only. Makes for very accurate cast BULLETS

a good, but time consuming way to make good cast boolits :)
 
a good, but time consuming way to make good cast boolits :)

I like to turn out 100 or so in a session. Probably 30 of those won't get past inspection. What's left is guaranteed to fly into one hole. That's what accurate BULLETS do. What BOOLITS do or even are I have no clue. I will say it sounds like JK talk though. Perhaps You can tell me what BOOLIT means. Privately in a PM if it's to embarrassing for public view
 
Not sure if this is the case but the OP mentioned "Pounding". Is it possible that he is really pulling on the lever? I don't mean just pulling, I mean really PULLLLLING on the lever?
 
Not sure if this is the case but the OP mentioned "Pounding". Is it possible that he is really pulling on the lever? I don't mean just pulling, I mean really PULLLLLING on the lever?

He was refering to the fact he slugged his barrel and it came out at .308. His die is .309, hence his question to go .310 or .311
 
Not sure if this is the case but the OP mentioned "Pounding". Is it possible that he is really pulling on the lever? I don't mean just pulling, I mean really PULLLLLING on the lever?

No. Google "pound cast". It's a method of getting a chamber cast using a soft lead slug, a rod, and a hammer.
 
If I can, and I usually can, I like to do a two step. Forward through a lee so everything is lined up with the front (theoretically) and my check is on. Then I put them in the lube sizer to lube and lube only. Makes for very accurate cast BULLETS


so what you are doing, is using both dies the same size?
 
Let me give a few pointers I have found out over the years. Some by being told. Some by beating my head against the wall. The odd one you may not like, that does not negate it’s truth or importance. If You have questions fire away but for now I’ll list a few things which for the most part address what You are into at present.
- When we think of accuracy we tend to think of small to medium being accurate with large being acceptable at best. Opposite with cast (Contact area). We have a saying among those I shoot with. If You wanted someone to catch onto cast bang on first time what would You do? I’d hand him a Marlin in 45/70 and a wnfp GC mold exactly .458 with a good strong ogive. Virtually any person that draws a breath could get good groups out of that. With large diameters perfection in casting/sizing is less critical because obturation will pretty much solve any sealing issues. As much as I don’t care for lee products that is why their heavy 45 cal stuff is all 457,,,,,,,Obturation
- Something I didn’t point out to You before because I just caught myself doing it while I was out casting/sizing today. I mentioned sizing front wards instead of backwards. We’ll talk on that later. There is a key bigger than that. Try to aquire molds that drop as close to the size of Your throat as possible. When I run them through to put checks on I just want to barely see witness marks where the die touched but really didn’t remove, more like just polished.
- Actual removal of metal post casting is a great way to shift the mass of the BULLET off it’s center axis. Even as little as 1-2 ten thousands of an inch is detrimental. If You combine that with doing it backwards and God only knows where you are.
- So to go back to one of Your questions. Your bore don’t matter. It’s Your throat You want things sized to. Above 375 cal You can have a thou clearance in throat. Personally in the 30 cal range I would want as close as possible.
- Remember another thing to. That small cal will not exactly have a slow “Made for cast” twist IOW those bullets will want to be water dropped
- Lastly. Cast can NOT suffer a jump to the lands unless You’re just talking a couple thou.
- If You go to the Mountain molds sight Dan used to have a place You could click and it would show a diagram of how things should look in a chamber loaded with a cast bullet. The visual helps

Anything more drop me a note
 
Let me give a few pointers I have found out over the years. Some by being told. Some by beating my head against the wall. The odd one you may not like, that does not negate it’s truth or importance. If You have questions fire away but for now I’ll list a few things which for the most part address what You are into at present.
- When we think of accuracy we tend to think of small to medium being accurate with large being acceptable at best. Opposite with cast (Contact area). We have a saying among those I shoot with. If You wanted someone to catch onto cast bang on first time what would You do? I’d hand him a Marlin in 45/70 and a wnfp GC mold exactly .458 with a good strong ogive. Virtually any person that draws a breath could get good groups out of that. With large diameters perfection in casting/sizing is less critical because obturation will pretty much solve any sealing issues. As much as I don’t care for lee products that is why their heavy 45 cal stuff is all 457,,,,,,,Obturation
- Something I didn’t point out to You before because I just caught myself doing it while I was out casting/sizing today. I mentioned sizing front wards instead of backwards. We’ll talk on that later. There is a key bigger than that. Try to aquire molds that drop as close to the size of Your throat as possible. When I run them through to put checks on I just want to barely see witness marks where the die touched but really didn’t remove, more like just polished.
- Actual removal of metal post casting is a great way to shift the mass of the BULLET off it’s center axis. Even as little as 1-2 ten thousands of an inch is detrimental. If You combine that with doing it backwards and God only knows where you are.
- So to go back to one of Your questions. Your bore don’t matter. It’s Your throat You want things sized to. Above 375 cal You can have a thou clearance in throat. Personally in the 30 cal range I would want as close as possible.
- Remember another thing to. That small cal will not exactly have a slow “Made for cast” twist IOW those bullets will want to be water dropped
- Lastly. Cast can NOT suffer a jump to the lands unless You’re just talking a couple thou.
- If You go to the Mountain molds sight Dan used to have a place You could click and it would show a diagram of how things should look in a chamber loaded with a cast bullet. The visual helps

Anything more drop me a note

great reply thanks
 
Hi all I got new sizer die and went up one size to 310 and now its shootig within a 1 inch group.what im using is a 311041 mold boolit pushed with 27 gr. of imr 4895 with filler long haul but got it done so thanks to all who replied Earl
 
Be careful with fillers. Depending on what You use and in a bottle neck case You could end up with an "everybody trying to squeeze into the hole at once" type effect. In short a pipe bomb. A lot of folk who used things to fine like cream of wheat in bottle necks had bad things happen. Try going to something like 4759 and no filler. Ya sure can't 8itch at an inch though
 
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