(BPCR) shooting sticks

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Metman2

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In anticipation of spring, I've decided to start scrounging around for the right wood and hardware for some world-class ;-) shooting sticks for my Pedersoli Sharps 1874. I was thinking if using the shafts of a couple of wooden hockey sticks. I'd like them to be quickly adjustable for prone and kneeling. I've never actually seen anything live and up close. Anyone have any pictures that might help me design my own? I don't have that many disposable hockey sticks to spare- I haven't broken a single blade this winter!
 
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I've played around with making them and honestly, the quickest and most versatile shooting stick that I've found is just that... a stick. I usually like one about 3-4' long, a comfortable length for a short walking stick, if I'm hunting a cutblock with lots of tall grass and willows I might go taller to use from a standing position, if I were to use one prone shorter might be better. Simply grip the stick at the desired hight and rest the gun across your wrist, from a seated position I can get acceptable hunting accuracy out to around 300 yards which is about what I consider my maximum hunting range.

A more elaborate setup is to use two pieces of wood (I consider a hockey stick way to heavy, think more along the lines of surveyor stakes or lighter), use a bolt and locknut to make a hinge point near the top and run a loop of airline or other soft hose from one side of the resulting crotch to the other, using hose clamps, glue, or a snug pressure fit to keep it there. If your hinge point is in the right place and your hose-loop the right size you can shove the front of your gun snuggly through the loop and it will act like a bipod... stay on your gun if you move it, no need to hold the sticks upright or keep the legs from spreading while shooting. These are not hight adjustable, they are good for shooting targets but they are position specific, IMO just a plain stick is better for hunting.
 
If you are shooting a Sharps you are someone wanting to get into the a historical mindset and re-live the past. Continuing this into the rest of your gear will be much more satisfying than stopping at just the rifle.
Just as your Sharps doesn't have a plastic stock or take whizzy super belted mag shells you don't want to use hockey sticks.

Find some reasonably stiff straight choke cherry or natural hard wood staves. Diamond willow looks really nice peeled and varnished. In a real pinch dowls from the hardware store aren't too bad. A natural bend can be used to create a nice level spot for resting the rifle.

Sit in the position you shoot in and experiment with the height by tying them with cord. Remember that you can vary the height quite a bit by spreading the legs more or less. Cord or a leather saddle can be the permanent pivot point or you can drill the sticks for a bolt. Wrap the areas where the rifle will sit with leather if you aren't aren't hanging a rest above the pivot.
For the bottoms buy a couple spikes and drill the sticks to hold them so you can drive them in the ground. Wrappings or copper pipe can be fitted to the ends to prevent splitting.

It's pretty tough to make something that will work for both prone and kneeling because the height changes so much. Using a natural fork in the stick cut to be at the lower point might be one thing to try.
Thats my 2 cents as someone who has made, used and sold about a hundred sets over the years.

Or there are always a few busted hockey sticks around if you visit the local arenas.
 
I should have mentioned that this is for target shooting. My rifle is a bit heavy (13 lb.) to carry for the type of hunting I do.
 
I like vagrantviking's idea of trying to stay with something suitable to the period of gun and ammo being shot in such events. There's just something not quite right with the idea of that nice a rifle sitting on a set of sticks that was made from dumpster mining or made from oddball sources of material or modern options that are going to be so out of character.

I think you'll also quickly find that the heights needed for prone or table top vs that needed for kneeling vary by so much that trying to use one set of sticks for both is going to be cumbersome. I'd suggest a different set for each height from the shooting I've done.

I'm a big fan of prone but the times I've shot at some ranges that didn't cut the grass I've had to sit up and shoot from a more upright stance so I was looking at something other than a wall of green. And that's where the second taller set of sticks comes in handy.
 
BCRider said:
I like vagrantviking's idea of trying to stay with something suitable to the period of gun and ammo being shot in such events. There's just something not quite right with the idea of that nice a rifle sitting on a set of sticks that was made from dumpster mining or made from oddball sources of material or modern options that are going to be so out of character.

I think you'll also quickly find that the heights needed for prone or table top vs that needed for kneeling vary by so much that trying to use one set of sticks for both is going to be cumbersome. I'd suggest a different set for each height from the shooting I've done.

I'm a big fan of prone but the times I've shot at some ranges that didn't cut the grass I've had to sit up and shoot from a more upright stance so I was looking at something other than a wall of green. And that's where the second taller set of sticks comes in handy.
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Exactly this, I've never had the stars align for me to even consider using the prone position in the field so I don't even practice it anymore. Seated with a makeshift rest or shooting stick is the best option I can ever hope for while hunting so this is what I practice long shots with.
 
Not historical...but i had the same thought. Found at a garage sale a set of those ski pole thingys that people use when out for walks....adjusts in height, nice hand grip, then got a dollar store wire coated in plastic Y shaped cradle with a thread....screwed right in the top of the hand grip...put a bit more foam and good to go. Nice walking stick on a hike also.
 
Look at some of the cross sticks that some of the BPCR suppliers sell as well look at pictures from shoots at Raton and NMLRA. This will give you an idea of whats being used. Search the net, there are drawings out there. Good luck and have fun.
 
Th hockey stick idea is good. I use 3/4" oak from home depot. I just drill a number of holes with one inch spacing and use a bolt and wing nut with washers to hold them together. The best thing I've found for the bottom spikes are big 5" nails cut to length and driven into holes drilled into the bottom. I pad the inner surface with felt.

If you are planning to use them in competition you need to ensure that your design passes the rules.

Chris.
 
Am I the only one who uses the ram rod crossed with my range rod? If standing, I shoot off hand. If sitting I have used cross sticks and it is more stable than bracing against/on knee or arms supported by knees. Just use the rods you already have on hand, cross them, hold them at the cross and the rifle rests on the sticks...works great. I don't understand golf clubs, hockey sticks, tennis rackets, harvested heartwood from the golden ash of nevermore...?
 
Metman2 said:
I should have mentioned that this is for target shooting. My rifle is a bit heavy (13 lb.) to carry for the type of hunting I do.
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My BPCR cross sticks are a couple of peeled aspen sticks about 1 1/4" diameter and a metre long so useful from prone or sitting which are the normal positions. I resisted drilling holes for a bolt in the interest of historical accuracy and instead lash/wrap a 3' piece of sash cord (probably should use latigo leather lace) at the position appropriate for what I want to do at the time. The cord wrap also protects the finish on the gun. NMLRA requires steel spikes (not longer than 4" IIRC) to support the sticks from falling over and I agree it is a good idea after shooting my 12 lb Sharps in a variety of situations. I used 5 or 6" spikes, cut off the heads and epoxied them into pilot holes drilled to size. I don't know of any events where you would shoot standing while supporting the rifle on a monopod or cross sticks so no need to have them 5 or 6' long.
 
If you are going to compete, check out the rules. There are maximum dimensions allowed, I think may be 1" x 2", and must be made of wood, can be padded at the crotch to protect the finish of the rifle. They may be sharpened at the bottom, so they can stick in the ground, or they may have a metal spike on the bottom of each, so they will stick in the ground, but the spike can't exceed 3" in length. I can try to find the NRA rules or DCRA rules, if you want.
Glen
 
Google "Okanagan Shooting Sticks". They are the best/sturdiest I've ever used. Made in a home workshop just south of B.C border in Washington. User revues & pics can be found in the Marlin Owners forum.
 
Easyrider said:
If you are going to compete, check out the rules. There are maximum dimensions allowed, I think may be 1" x 2", and must be made of wood, can be padded at the crotch to protect the finish of the rifle. They may be sharpened at the bottom, so they can stick in the ground, or they may have a metal spike on the bottom of each, so they will stick in the ground, but the spike can't exceed 3" in length. I can try to find the NRA rules or DCRA rules, if you want.
Glen
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DCRA rules don't seem to specify dimensions.
NRA BPCR rules:
Crossed Sticks: Crossed sticks constructed of two wooden legs, no greater than 1 inch by 2 inches in thickness and width or 1 1/2” in diameter, and bolted or tied so that the two legs are hinged and capable of pivoting. The end of the legs may be equipped with spikes no more than 3 inches in length and no wider than the edge of the crossed stick.

They may be inserted into the ground by hand pressure only to aid in retention of an upright position. One layer of protective material may be suspended or inserted in the “V” of the crossed sticks to protect the rifle.
 
I'm getting into the crossed sticks thing too. From asking on another forum I got information about how to find the null spot.

It's pretty simple. Hold the gun by the receiver and tap the barrel along its length with a wood or plastic thing. You're looking for the spot on the barrel that where you tap produces the least vibration or ringing sound. The general concensus seems to be that it's better to use a null out by the tip of the barrel. But I like the overall balance more with one closer to the receiver. I need to get to the range and try the spots to see which shoots better though.
 
^ Interesting. I've always rested on the stock but I'm intrigued by this "null" spot. By tapping on the barrel you're finding the barrels varying resonances. However, when firing the rifle (at a much different hertz cycle v. tapping it) I would think this "null" spot would change location, perhaps even disappear all together?
 
Good luck tapping on the barrel of my Shiloh 'Business Rifle'! You'd have to hit it with a ball peen hammer to get any resonance out of it.

If the guys on the Shiloh forum tell me that it's 1/4 of the barrel length back from the muzzle, that's good enough for me.
 
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