Blackpowder FAQ

Patch Lube

What to use for a patch lube :confused: ?

There are two lubes that I like to use.

Hoppes#9 patch lube, sold commercially.

Moose Milk nessy's recipe
13 oz water
3 oz water soluable cutting oil (machine shops use on their lathes etc.)
1 oz Murphys Oil soap

With either of those lubes it's a given that you will be able to shoot till the cows come home and never foul your rifle :D
Having said that, if youare using these lubes and you experience fouling :eek: it means your patches are too dry.
Simply clean the bore with a cleaning patch and lube, wet you patches some more and continue shooting :D
Cheers nessy.
 
I think you need to edit your descriptions a bit;

Round Balls; were initially used in smoothbore and straight rifled guns. The early military guns had limited accuracy because the significantly undersize bullets were used for fast loading

Slower Spin Rate; round balls spun slowly have increased accuracy and twist rates of 1 turn in 60" - 70" is the least sensitive in terms of accuracy vs powder charge. Markedly faster twist rates tend to lose accuracy with changes in powder charge.

Conical Bullets; must be spun when shot or they will tumble end for end. The rate of twist is calculated by the Greenhill formula of twist = 150 x diameter squared divided by length all units in inches. Optimally the twist rate should be 1" faster than the formula. Grossly overspinning an elongate bullet may cause it to wobble in flight.

cheers mooncoon
 
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Any of you heard of Dan Theodore?
He's a famous writer and a champion BPCR shooter.

I was going by the Greenhill formula as a lot of others do and this is what he said to me about it and I quote.

"Guys,

The information on the above site concerning caliber, twist and bullet length is less than useless, it if flat-out WRONG. Do not use any estimates based on the Greenhill Formula or its derivatives like the Modified Greenhill published by Charlie Dell.

There are a number of factors that will predict bullet stability for a given barrel twist-rate; bullet length is only one of those factors. Nose-tip design, ogive length, grease groove design and how well the bullet is centered in the bore all have a substantial affect on bullet stability.
_________________
All the best,

DanT "

Conan_568 said:
I guess I'd better download a new BS filter.
Click to expand...

Conan,

"Yup, those tables look good, but are worse than worthless; they are dead wrong and could lead a man in the direction of wasting time, money and effort on a inappropriate mold for his rifle.

So far the best method I've found to determine optimum bullet design for match shooting is to use the software developed by Dr. McCoy for the US Army. It is right on for supersonic flight, but needs tweaking for our Pb pills. That being said, after years of using it, it is a very useful tool in the hands of one that "knows how to swing that type of hammer."
_________________
All the best,

DanT
 
Flints will knap themselves to suit your gun if you hold the frizzen so the edge of the flint strikes the heel area of the frizzen and you pull the trigger.
I make a great liquid lube by mixing canola oil with Black Powder Bore Solvent (from TOTW) in a 3/1 ratio.
My BP shotguns get the best patterns when I load a little less powder, by volume than shot and stick to recognized 'light' loads. Often loading data for modern shotgun shells contain DRAMS EQUIVILENT information, refering to drams of black powder.
 
I always use spit, sept in the winter. Windshield washer fluid. Always got a length of ticking hanging out of my face!
 
Got a recipe for a very poular brand of patch lube that is sold at rendevous. Take 1 litre of windshield washer fluid (the blue kind). Add enough water soluble cutting oil untill it turns a mint green color. Then add 1 teaspoon murphy's oil soap. This patch lube never gums up the barrel and cuts the fouling down to nothing.

Cheers! Steve Jones.
 
I just checked some moose milk that I made up last summer.
It had a nice layer of mold growing on top of it.
I used distilled water and machinist's oil.
Where did that mold come from, and would adding a bit of Murph's oil-soap stop it from forming?
 
I have started adding some isopropyl alcohol to the moose milk I make which is more or less the same as Conan. Since doing that I have not had any mold or fungus forming on top of the liquid. Before using alcohol, I would get a slimy membrane forming on the top of the liquid, within a few weeks.

cheers mooncoon
 
Funny, I was just about to suggest that.
I just added some isopropyl alcohol to the mixture, as well as a bit of Murph's.
I'll leave it sit a few days and see what happens.
 
antique question

whats involved in bringing an antique in from the states?
also seen a couple nice ones in .44-40 ive always been a fan of S&W revolvers does .44-40 make the grade for antique?

thanks for your imput guys.
 
Here is my "secret" formulae
Windshield washer fluid (the blue kind do not use winter fluid) then add water soluble cutting oil until the washer fluid turns a mint green. Then add a small amount of Murph's oil soap. This duplicates a very popular brand of patch lube sold at rendevous...

Cheers!
 
I made up some of that lube with blue windshield washer fluid and a teaspoon of Murphy oil soap and water soluble cutting fluid. I thought that adding water soluble cutting fluid would turn the muxture an off white colour mine stayed a Blue/ green color. Did I use something I shouldn't have?
 
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stevejones said:
Got a recipe for a very poular brand of patch lube that is sold at rendevous. Take 1 litre of windshield washer fluid (the blue kind). Add enough water soluble cutting oil untill it turns a mint green color. Then add 1 teaspoon murphy's oil soap. This patch lube never gums up the barrel and cuts the fouling down to nothing.

Cheers! Steve Jones.
Click to expand...
How much patch lube do you use on that patch? I'm worried about getting the powder wet. I have used a patch sold by track of the wolf and they seem greasy not wet.
thanks guys:)
 
I soak my patches in the home made moosemilk. They are quite wet when I use them. There is very little moisture however in the portion of the patch which contacts the powder; I don't mean that I have patches that are dry on the bottom and wet on the sides, just that the amount of moisture exposed to the powder is not that great and the fouling of say 1 gr of powder in a 50 gr charge is neglible.
The advantage of a good damp patch is that it somewhat wipes the bore with each loading. I fired off roughly 40 shots yesterday without any difficulty loading and unfortunately all went where I aimed them instead of hitting the target every time :>) :>)

cheers mooncoon
 
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