anyone using a pair of zeiss classic 10x40b binos

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mikeboehm

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I will be inheriting a pair of this binos from my grandfather. They are really clear. How good are these binos. I really don't know much about them. I wanna use these as a backup to my 10x32 swarovisions.

And info would be appreciated.
 
Are they marked T* and P? T* is Zeiss' proprietary multi-coating; P is for Phase correction which occurred post 1988. Both would make these particular model of binoculars more desireable to some folks - which doesnt mean there is anything wrong if they aren't so treated. The 7x, 42 Zeiss B/GA tend to be a little more desirable again to some folks (optically)... with the Abbe-Koenig prisms. Bottom line is if they give a good image .. they are good. Look for reviews by Holger Merlitz.
 
this is the exact model i have

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I'd say if the glass is mint and you have everything they came with new, you could probably get $700-$750.

These won't be on par with your Swarovision though. As good as they were, new coatings have come a long way. I have a pair of these Zeiss in 7x42 and 8x30. They're really sharp, but not quite as crisp as my Victory's or my friends EL 10x42 Swarovisions.

But everyone's eyes are different. They're about as handy as you can get in a 10x40. The only ones that come close are Leica or the older Leitz 10x40.
 
$700-$800 range would be probably what someone is willing to pay for them if they are in excellent condition with very good collimation....If the collimation is out even a little you will need to get them fixed before selling them......
 
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$700-$800 range would be probably what someone is willing to pay for them if they are in excellent condition with very good collimation....If the collimation is out even a little you will need to get them fixed before selling them......
Click to expand...

ive never heard of collimation before
 
It is the alignment of the two optical cylinders.There are ways you can test for it yourself. You can probably find some explanations of it on youtube. It is critical in binoculars. Usually Zeiss, Swarovski and Leica have their more expensive binoculars very well collimated BUT if binoculars get dropped or bumped they can be knocked out of alignment or if left in a vehicle on a hot sunny day the prism could shift slightly.
If they are in perfect collimation it means you get two images which line up perfectly( in theory at least)...


I don't know where you live but if you are in Ottawa take them to "Focus Scientific" and have Tristan check them out( he will probably do it for free or maybe charge you 5 bucks)...This guy knows optics.....
 
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Unlikely Zeiss like these are not collimated unless they have been dropped on concrete. The lens an prism assemblies are usually very secure and locked with special adhesive or a form of "loctite" you can get a quick idea if they are properly collimated by looking through them at a level fence about 50-100ft away. Hold the bins as horizontal as you can (I use a level 2x4 between two chairs and focus on the top edge of the fence holding the edge in the centre of the field....draw back a little and check to see that both occulars have the fence edge in the center of their field. If one ocular shows the fence edge higher or lower than the other then collimation must be adjusted. If both appear to be in the same place/elevation you very probably fine! Some guys open and close their eyelids alternating left and right to see if they detect a movement of the image..works the same
 
I use a roof edge of a highrise myself and the stars at night is a great way to check....just hold them out in front of you as mentioned by AP... I have seen brand new top end Swarovski and Zeiss out of collimation. They were shipped to the store like that. They weren't out by much and maybe some would not have noticed but when I am paying over 2 K for binos I want what I paid for....
 
I've had that exact model of binocular since I bought it new 26 years ago, and they are still tacksharp, crystal clear and perfectly collimated. Despite extensive use in cold winter weather and several trips to steamy tropical areas they have never fogged, despite the fact that they are not nitrogen-purged but merely very well sealed. When they were about ten years old they developed some slack or play in the focusing mechanism, and they went to back to Germany for service, coming back looking and functioning like new.

My wife and I do a fair bit of birding, in addition to my hunting, and we've owned and played with a lot of top-end binocs. These remain my favourites and see at least some use virtually every day. By now there is a fair bit of nostalgia and sentimental attachment built into that preference, but the fact remains that they are outstanding binoculars, both optically and in general build quality.
 
I didn't realize they weren't nitrogen purged, too bad but I am sure they are still awesome optics. I think it will affect what someone is willing to pay for them though as practically all hunters want nitrogen purged.
 
well here's my "wild assed guess" $875-925 ... I pulled the number out of my ass because that is a little more than I would want to pay for them (despite the fact that I know they are good) and less than I have seen them advertised for: 1100-1250
 
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