m305 op-rod spring guide popping out of tracks when manually cycling the action

cerebral_bore

cerebral_bore

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Can anyone tell me what's going on?

The retainer pin keeps moving out of the way and the guide pops out. Seems like a terrible design, or am I making an obvious mistake?
 
cerebral_bore said:
Can anyone tell me what's going on?

The retainer pin keeps moving out of the way and the guide pops out. Seems like a terrible design, or am I making an obvious mistake?
Click to expand...

Popsicle stick fix. Read the stickies.

Factory stock or USGI stock? Factory stock should not be exhibiting this problem.

M
 
if you mean the little sliding metal tab in the bottom of the receiver that slips into the space on the oprod spring guide, its a simple fix.

the "real" m14 select fire, had a longer piece of metal that connected with the full auto thingamabob. The metal piece on the norcs is shorter. Simplest way is to epoxy a small piece of popsicle stick onto the inside of the stock in that area to prevent the metal piece from moving out too far. More permanent is to just build a little walled area of putty and put some jb weld in there.
 
gnmontey said:
Popsicle stick fix. Read the stickies.

Factory stock or USGI stock? Factory stock should not be exhibiting this problem.

M
Click to expand...

I just put it in the Troy MCS chassis

Makes sense, I guess the factory stock has tighter spacing to the side of the receiver and blocks the pin from moving out?

Thanks guys
 
I have a troy mcs so know what yer dealing with

ideally you want to order (brownells, treelinem14 or the EE) a usgi length connector pin and retaining pin. it is about 1/8 or so longer than a norinco pin.
you can also hot glue a popsicle stick in the stocks recess. it can't move once everything is together.
 
nope, the oprod guide is the piece further up the barrel and that pin is for it.

you need a "connector lock" pin. there is a standard size (longer) and an NM size (shorter like norinco)
you'll also need the connector lock/spindlevalve retaining pin (shown in the lower section in that link you posted)

I think it's : Brownells 817-000-042WB Connector Lock Mfr Part: MA0206
 
Likely what you have vs what you need:

hL2f7x5.jpg
 
That would be a USGI Connector lock (that's the real name) since it does lock in the connector rod (FA parts interfacing with FUN switch) and the connector lock pin!

Not a big deal but the installation into a Norc receiver is a beeeeyotch! :eek: Ask me how I know..... :cool:

The USGI connector lock diameter is a few thousandths fatter/thicker than the Norinco connector lock and has to be turned down. And since I don't have a lathe, I chucked it up in my Makita high speed (above 3000 rpm) drill and took the corner of a file to the diameter.... Took about an hour and now i live to tell the tale. There's a reason I know more about this platform than many of you and that's because I've Fzcked up more than ALL of you! ha ha ha ha ha :cool:

Cheers:

Barney
 
TacticalTeacher said:
That would be a USGI Connector lock (that's the real name) since it does lock in the connector rod (FA parts interfacing with FUN switch) and the connector lock pin!

Not a big deal but the installation into a Norc receiver is a beeeeyotch! :eek: Ask me how I know..... :cool:

The USGI connector lock diameter is a few thousandths fatter/thicker than the Norinco connector lock and has to be turned down. And since I don't have a lathe, I chucked it up in my Makita high speed (above 3000 rpm) drill and took the corner of a file to the diameter.... Took about an hour and now i live to tell the tale. There's a reason I know more about this platform than many of you and that's because I've Fzcked up more than ALL of you! ha ha ha ha ha :cool:

Cheers:

Barney
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Appreciate that, Barney

Maybe i will just McGuyver it and do the popsicle stick and glue method. Also thought briefly about tack welding it in place, although I guess cleaning and complete disassembley would be limited.

If it's a $2 part I could always buy a few and try filing them down, and use my best work.

Or.... you could send me yours ;)
 
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Since your stock is metal, why not simply drill and tap the stock and put a set screw in from the side to press against the pin and hold it in place? Doesn't have to be tight just there to make sure the pin doesn't move and release your guide.

Scott
 
TacticalTeacher said:
That would be a USGI Connector lock (that's the real name) since it does lock in the connector rod (FA parts interfacing with FUN switch) and the connector lock pin!

Not a big deal but the installation into a Norc receiver is a beeeeyotch! :eek: Ask me how I know..... :cool:

The USGI connector lock diameter is a few thousandths fatter/thicker than the Norinco connector lock and has to be turned down. And since I don't have a lathe, I chucked it up in my Makita high speed (above 3000 rpm) drill and took the corner of a file to the diameter.... Took about an hour and now i live to tell the tale. There's a reason I know more about this platform than many of you and that's because I've Fzcked up more than ALL of you! ha ha ha ha ha :cool:

Cheers:

Barney
Click to expand...

yup, I lost count a long time ago , the number of usgi connector lock pins I've chucked up in my dewalt and file in one hand, caliper at the ready, turned down to norinco diameter.
I've even gotten more hillbilly about it and simply used the azz end of a drill bit that fit the diameter and bucked it off with the dremel wheel to the right length...... the OP might even wanna try that.... it doesn't "need" the little retaining pin to keep it in place once in the stock.

@ m39a2...... as for the idea of drilling thru a troy chassis to thread and install a set screw...... ya I'll pass on ruining a 1000 dollar stock thanx ;)
 
45ACPKING said:
yup, I lost count a long time ago , the number of usgi connector lock pins I've chucked up in my dewalt and file in one hand, caliper at the ready, turned down to norinco diameter.
I've even gotten more hillbilly about it and simply used the azz end of a drill bit that fit the diameter and bucked it off with the dremel wheel to the right length...... the OP might even wanna try that.... it doesn't "need" the little retaining pin to keep it in place once in the stock.

@ m39a2...... as for the idea of drilling thru a troy chassis to thread and install a set screw...... ya I'll pass on ruining a 1000 dollar stock thanx ;)
Click to expand...

So, in your opinion, is it worth going through the trouble to buy a USGI pin, milling it down and sticking it in my Norc, or would the hillbilly method (and other methods like the popsicle stick) suffice?

I just picked up a Norc off my buddy, came in the EBR chassis and he was using duct tape to keep the pin from walking. Anyway, that method clearly didn't work because it came lose and the guide rod popped out.
 
Well, really, it doesn't matter as long as it works.
The receiver hole for the connector lock pin passes right thru, albeit, smaller on the opposing side. So, say you use a piece of the back end of a very close fitting drill shank.... Cut 1/8" longer or so than a norinco pin.... You don't need the little retaining pin to slide the pin over, you just push it with a smaller punch from other side when you want to remove spring guide rod.
Make sense hehehe
Even the good ol popsicle stick mod does the exact same job and can last an awfully long time

It's kinda 6 of 1, 1/2 dozen of the other kind of thing if ya catch my drift ;)
 
45ACPKING said:
Well, really, it doesn't matter as long as it works.
The receiver hole for the connector lock pin passes right thru, albeit, smaller on the opposing side. So, say you use a piece of the back end of a very close fitting drill shank.... Cut 1/8" longer or so than a norinco pin.... You don't need the little retaining pin to slide the pin over, you just push it with a smaller punch from other side when you want to remove spring guide rod.
Make sense hehehe
Even the good ol popsicle stick mod does the exact same job and can last an awfully long time

It's kinda 6 of 1, 1/2 dozen of the other kind of thing if ya catch my drift ;)
Click to expand...

Hey, thanks a lot for sharing your experience. I'm not very mechanically inclined, so i thought if I did order the part, I'm probably botch it trying to bring it down to the right diameter anyways. I'll probably experiment a little with the drill shank, thanks again!
 
No worries ;)

I should add tho... It doesn't take much to shave down the GI pin diameter.
I usually chuck 1/8" of the GI pin on the drill, that 1/8" can stay full diameter. Just make sure you put the end that normally sticks out of the receiver, into the chuck ;)
Those GI pins can be quite hard so a good file or even better a medium coarse flat stone also works extremely well.
A guy could also get away with using good sand paper stuck to a hard object but this may take a while.
As with all things DIY, take yer time and trial fit as you go.
 
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