Case Lube questions
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If you are sizing a few cases, the case lube technique does not matter very much. If you have a bucket or two of brass to size, there is a fast efficient way to lube the cases. I lube 100 or so cases (rifle) at a time. Takes about 30 seconds.
I use Lee case lube. It is a water soluble cream that is easy to clean off.
Dump brass in a plastic pail that has a lid.
Then take a 1" worm of lube and smear it around the top inside wall of the pail.
Put lid on and swirl and shake for 15 seconds. This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button.
I use Lee case lube. It is a water soluble cream that is easy to clean off.
Dump brass in a plastic pail that has a lid.
Then take a 1" worm of lube and smear it around the top inside wall of the pail.
Put lid on and swirl and shake for 15 seconds. This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button.
This was what I used to do , thanks to Ganderite, works great. I changed to the lanolin recipe because of ease for getting ingredients .If you are sizing a few cases, the case lube technique does not matter very much. If you have a bucket or two of brass to size, there is a fast efficient way to lube the cases. I lube 100 or so cases (rifle) at a time. Takes about 30 seconds.
I use Lee case lube. It is a water soluble cream that is easy to clean off.
Dump brass in a plastic pail that has a lid.
Then take a 1" worm of lube and smear it around the top inside wall of the pail.
Put lid on and swirl and shake for 15 seconds. This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button.
All oil, grease or case lube should be removed from the case, chamber and bore before shooting. Any of these can increase bolt thrust by 40% to 50% causing lug setback and increasing headspace.
after using Ganderite's lubing technique, I size and deprime then wash all the sized cases in the same container with hot water and a bit of dishwasher detergent.
Next I dry them out in a toaster oven at 300F for 20 minutes
Funny thing, yesterday one case somehow held a lot of water that it was still wet after the above. Primer soaking wet I mean.
But that's rare.
Next I dry them out in a toaster oven at 300F for 20 minutes
Funny thing, yesterday one case somehow held a lot of water that it was still wet after the above. Primer soaking wet I mean.
But that's rare.
PitBull1973
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When I do a bulk load of 223 I'll use a large zip lock bag , I'll spray the inside with a lanolin mix and fill the bag with brass and shake it . Once all brass is resized they will go back in the wet tumbler for a 1/2hr. For drying I use a food dehydrator
If you are sizing a few cases, the case lube technique does not matter very much. If you have a bucket or two of brass to size, there is a fast efficient way to lube the cases. I lube 100 or so cases (rifle) at a time. Takes about 30 seconds.
I use Lee case lube. It is a water soluble cream that is easy to clean off.
Dump brass in a plastic pail that has a lid.
Then take a 1" worm of lube and smear it around the top inside wall of the pail.
Put lid on and swirl and shake for 15 seconds. This will lube all the cases and deposit a tiny dab on the case mouth, to lube the expander button.
Just to confirm, this method allows you to skip directly lubing the neck with a brush or anything, because a bit will build up at the case mouth and that will lube the expander on the way through?
And then after sizing, just add some hot soapy water to the bucket and swirl a second time?
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Huh, I dunno about the swirl method. I roll on a pad, and was always told to avoid getting lube on the case shoulder. You guys don't worry about that?
Dillon spray lube - put tumbled brass into 2 quart zip lock bag - couple squirts of spray lube into bag - work bag around to mix brass/lube - empty brass onto tray - by the the time you're ready to start loading - the thin coat of lube is dried and good to go - no need to clean lube off loaded rounds.
X2 The only wax.
My Lee lube does say something about not lubing the shoulder. Is this not an issue with the swirl-in-a-bucket method??
yes, the Lee lube says "do not lube the shoulder". Don't know why. Perhaps it builds up inside the die?
but then again there are liquid lubes that are sprayed on the case and I doubt one could avoid the shoulder.
I've fully lubed thousands of cases with no ill effects.
It would be interesting to know why is it not recommended.
I'll ask Lee Precision.
I use Lee case lube, but with a twist.
Get a pump- bottle, 3/4 fill with 95% - 98% rubbing alcohol and 2" of Lee lube. Shake until the lube is dissolved.
Place cases on an old cookie sheet, spray, let the alcohol evaporate and size.
Works like charm and speeds up the process. YMMV.
Get a pump- bottle, 3/4 fill with 95% - 98% rubbing alcohol and 2" of Lee lube. Shake until the lube is dissolved.
Place cases on an old cookie sheet, spray, let the alcohol evaporate and size.
Works like charm and speeds up the process. YMMV.
Some of my manuals have pictures of dented shoulders from excessive lube.
That's what I do, and I use lead shot to help mix thing's up.
Than why is a whole bunch of military ammo dry lubed?? The P90 comes to mind. If you don't lube the cases after sizing, you'll very quickly end up with extraction problems. Also, why are the big naval guns having lubed cases?? Oh ya, why did WW2 german machine guns have oilers on them to oil the cases as they went into the gun?? One cannot claim that the Germans lost the war because of crappy tech...
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With Savage rifles having broken ejectors and extractors very early in a pressure curve, this may be the case. More thrust on the bolt face might be an issue. However, on a more reliable action such as a Mauser type of action (not an old siamese mauser), or Remington 700, etc., that's not a problem...
