Robarms XCR FAQ post

Don't get too hung up on or worried about lube. They don't require careful, meticulously planned lubrication rituals. Just lube it and go. Contact areas where parts interact is where it goes, use whatever you like.
 
supernova said:
1/4" allen key for barrel bolt. An action cleaning kit is very useful. The kind that has little round patches the look like small segments of rope. For ghe bore, use a good 1 piece rod like a Dewey's coated rod or Tipton carbon fiber. The segmented steel and aluminum rods are not good for the bore. Patches and solvent. Bore snakes or ok but don't do a very good cleaning job. Like washing your car with wet wipes, it works but there are better ways. A bronze brush is a must for a semi, hard baked on powder fouling is tough to get off without one. You'll quickly figure it all out and find what you like and don't like for cleaning tools.
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how about a brass rod? is that ok?
 
skatemike77 said:
I have been reading many complaints that this rifle will not eat cheap ammo and prefers the more expensive types.
http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/archive/index.php/t-208572.html

^ this thread here. all sorts of complains.


what do you guys recommend I buy for my break in period- and there after for ammo.
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I used to feed mine wolf and it ran fine. The one I have now is already broken in and has no trouble feeding ammo. I think the bozos on the outdoorsmen forum don't understand how to adjust the gas flow for reliable operation...
 
skatemike77 said:
I have been reading many complaints that this rifle will not eat cheap ammo and prefers the more expensive types.
http://www.outdoorsmenforum.ca/archive/index.php/t-208572.html

^ this thread here. all sorts of complains.


what do you guys recommend I buy for my break in period- and there after for ammo.
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Mine is x39 but my buddy has .223, his gun eats what it's fed.
Break in shouldn't be affected by ammo even one little bit. Break in is controlled by the gas valve, not what you're feeding it.
You're valve is probably set on 4 right now, I'd suggest starting on 3.

Use the valve as a tool to see what causes what. Induce a failure on 1 or S, feel the trigger slap on 4, mess around with it and learn. You won't break it.

Enjoy your wicked awesome new rifle.

Edit to add:
The idea is to run the gas as low as possible, without a failure. If your gun doesn't cycle, up the gas. If you feel trigger slap, lower the gas.
Different brands of ammo will run at different pressure. If you learn the system now you'll know what to do if the rifle short strokes after changing brands, or anything else that may happen.
 
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Got my XCR-M back from wolverine and took it out the other day. Here are some of my best groups:

Best of the day was .996"







I want to try some heavier bullets next time. I was using 165gr hornady SST and sierra 168 HPBT. Half of the range session was me getting back into the groove of precision shooting, as I have not done it in.... Years? Towards the end my groups started to shrink. I think my group average was around 2" at 105.5 yds but I know I can do better. Keep in mind as well that my rifle has a light profile barrel and I was not letting the barrel cool down in between shots. So next time I will be letting the barrel cool down every two shots or so.
 
9x19p said:
Mine is x39 but my buddy has .223, his gun eats what it's fed.
Break in shouldn't be affected by ammo even one little bit. Break in is controlled by the gas valve, not what you're feeding it.
You're valve is probably set on 4 right now, I'd suggest starting on 3.

Use the valve as a tool to see what causes what. Induce a failure on 1 or S, feel the trigger slap on 4, mess around with it and learn. You won't break it.

Enjoy your wicked awesome new rifle.

Edit to add:
The idea is to run the gas as low as possible, without a failure. If your gun doesn't cycle, up the gas. If you feel trigger slap, lower the gas.
Different brands of ammo will run at different pressure. If you learn the system now you'll know what to do if the rifle short strokes after changing brands, or anything else that may happen.
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for the break in of the XCR you start at the lowest setting that your gun will work , my 7.62x39mm with sellier and bellot surplus was working perfectly at 1 right out of the box
 
That depends on who you speak to I guess. RA would disagree with you, but Wolverine suggests your method. Me, I went with the manufacturer, except I went to 3 almost immediately.

Regardless, the idea is to have the gun running on the lowest setting possible, as soon as possible.
Lowest possible doesn't mean 1, it means the lowest setting that lets the gun operate reliably.

/

@driller
That looks promising. Nice shooting.
 
I'm new to XCR-L in x39. I just fed it 200 rounds of Barnaul in #2 setting and sends the case between 2 to 3 o'clock.

I have not gone through the entire post....to switch barrels from x39 to 5.56, is it just a barrel swap or is there anything else required?
 
Barrel, bolt, and I believe ejection buffer, are what makes up the caliber swap. Mag also.

Mine ejects hard, at same 2 to 3 o'clock. It's been running on 2 for a few thousand rounds. I had it on 1 for a long time, then had a hiccup. Put it in 2 and haven't felt the need to change it.

I don't know if Barnaul runs clean or dirty, but keep your gas ports clean. I use surplus x39, it can get pretty dirty.
 
9x19p said:
Barrel, bolt, and I believe ejection buffer, are what makes up the caliber swap. Mag also.

Mine ejects hard, at same 2 to 3 o'clock. It's been running on 2 for a few thousand rounds. I had it on 1 for a long time, then had a hiccup. Put it in 2 and haven't felt the need to change it.

I don't know if Barnaul runs clean or dirty, but keep your gas ports clean. I use surplus x39, it can get pretty dirty.
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Thanks. I also looked up a conversion from 5.56 to x39 and found barrel, bolt and mags to swap. I have to double check on the ejection buffer.

Bolt and rod looked clean so far after 200 rounds of Barnaul.
 
I have run the 55gr jhp red box federal American Eagle with good success with accuracy and with slightly better accuracy with 53 gr Hornady vmax. Groups were 1 5/8"@100meters

Also in 6.8SPC the 120 sst was ok but the 110 Hornady bthp was better.
 
are there any angled foregrips available that fit right into the keymod system or do you need to install a picatinny rail first then grab the grip?
 
skatemike77 said:
are there any angled foregrips available that fit right into the keymod system or do you need to install a picatinny rail first then grab the grip?
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I googled "keymod angle grip Canada". Looks to be lots of options.
Ctcs was the first hit, I'd talk to them. Superb to deal with.
 
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