Amazing, how a 22 can shoot this tight at 100 yards!
I haven't bought it yet, so there's been no goofing with it as of yet. Thanks for the heads up...
If you get the rifle, and shoot it, you will not sell it, so my advice is to sell it to me before you do (ha ha...kidding, sort of)
I'd reach out to yodave on here, he is an incredible resource on these fine guns. If you get stuck on the bolt and need a hand, send me a pm, and I can talk you through it.
I have since made a .377 group at 100m with American Eagle .40gn solids using a Sightron 8-32x56 scope.
Typically, these rifles seem to ''grip'' the solid lead projectiles better than the hi velocity copper washed ones.
Be sure to look in the chamber. If there is a noticeable lead ring, it could be nothing, but clean it out and then inspect. I have only seen 1 rifle where the ring was etched into the metal, and it made the gun shoot like an accurate CZ452.
The depth of stock makes you ineligible for smallbore silhouette, but in terms of benchrest, and varmint hunting, these guns are phenomenal. There is no ejector, it is milled into the bottom metal of the bolt carrier, so you will need medium rings to clear a scope.
The front sight inserts are now unobtanium, as are the clear inserts (sometimes they come up on ebay)
Anyhow, these are extremely well made single shot firearms, and they still hold their own. Overall quality and group size is right in the middle of an Anschutz 64/54 Lock time is very fast, if it had a magazine, it would be closer to a 54 action.
Best results for me have been using Royal Purple rear diff oil in 75w Synthetic, and a little red synthetic wheelbearing grease on the safety slider and ball detents (when you get the bolt apart)
Most Walthers have some corrosion in the bolt because it is not real friendly to take apart and re-assemble. Hence the light lapping on the firing pin I had to do.
Congrats, and buy the thing already, and if not, tell me where i can!!!