seized action screws ***** Update post # 50

Polaris... after you find the correct, perfect fitting bit... coat the end of it with valve grinding compound ( which you can buy at any Canadian Tire ), dip the end of your bit into it, and then try unscrewing the fastener once again.

It will help immensly if you also tap the screwdriver handle sharply with a hammer, just to seat the bit into the buggered slot.

Press down firmly while you turn the screw out.
 
A good quality set of Gunsmith Screwdrivers with no taper ( ie: Forster Products) is a must. Never use a regular screwdriver as they are tapered, or you will burr the screw head all to H3LL! and your rifle will hate you!
 
polaris said:
It is a 1908 Brazilian Mauser surplus rifle, so the screws were fastened 100 years ago.
The rifle in otherwise very good condition, but full of grease, which was put there at least 50 years ago,

To send it back to Mauser for warranty work was a joke, sorry should have explained that.
Click to expand...

Ok, I see what you are up against. If the rifle was sporterized as many of them were, it had to have been taken apart to do so. If it is still in full wood and has grease inside and out and has never been through a refurb it should be chambered for the 7x57 Mauser round. If it is as you say "full of grease" and not issued or just cleaned up enough to use then there are lots of good reasons for not taking it apart at all.

Anyway I have had similar issues with Mauser and especially Arisaka rifles that have been coated in their original grease. Usually the issue is not to difficult to overcome. First, if you are going to use a screwdriver and hammer to rap the screws, as mentioned, make sure the screwdriver fits tightly into the slot, otherwise you will gall the slots. Some folks insist on tightening the action screws in an insane manner.

Another option, if it really is hardened grease and not deformed screw threads from over tension is to use a scrap screwdriver again and heat the shaft to red hot while applying reverse tension to the screw. The transmitted heat will cause the screw to lengthen a few thousandths of an inch and allow it to be turned out. I have seen action screws so tight they are almost welded to the trigger guard.

Good luck with it.
 
After using a penetrant, I lock the rifle in my mill/drill with a properly fitting screwdriver bit in the chuck. I lower the quill into the screw slot and lock it in place. I use the drill chuck in the chuck hole to rotate it about 1/8 turn. The screwdriver bit cannot back out since the quill is locked in place. It can only rotate a small amount to free the screw. The screw will either be loosened or you will break off the head.
 
Still no change today, but I ordered an impact screw driver from amazon, should be here Tuesday. In the meantime it will soak in liquid wrench.
 
I have offered this advise before on this forum...An old WWII motor-pool mechanic told my dad that the best "loosener" they had available to them when trying to re-use parts from burnt out rusted hulks was common drug store Iodine. We started using it here on the farm for bearings and collars rusted onto shafts and such exclusively as it worked much better than any store-bought penetrant we ever tried before. No need to let soak overnight so far, usually a couple hrs is sufficient.
 
fingers284 said:
I have offered this advise before on this forum...An old WWII motor-pool mechanic told my dad that the best "loosener" they had available to them when trying to re-use parts from burnt out rusted hulks was common drug store Iodine. We started using it here on the farm for bearings and collars rusted onto shafts and such exclusively as it worked much better than any store-bought penetrant we ever tried before. No need to let soak overnight so far, usually a couple hrs is sufficient.
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Fingers, your methodology isn't at question here. Iodine works but it needs to be cleaned off very quickly. It also makes a great Loc Tite when it dries.

The issue the OP has is a fully assembled rifle where the threads are buried "inside" the stock. No way to get penetrants of any sort into the area without damaging the stock. He needs to be able to get the screws to break free while the rifle is still assembled.
 
bearhunter said:
Fingers, your methodology isn't at question here. Iodine works but it needs to be cleaned off very quickly. It also makes a great Loc Tite when it dries.

The issue the OP has is a fully assembled rifle where the threads are buried "inside" the stock. No way to get penetrants of any sort into the area without damaging the stock. He needs to be able to get the screws to break free while the rifle is still assembled.
Click to expand...

That is exactly the situation.
 
Here is how I do it.

Put rifle in padded vice, screws up. Anoint with penetrating oil. (I use Kroil.)

Leave over night.

Fit correct screwdriver. Attach a vice grip to shaft to provide the turning torque.

I lean down on screw with body weight, and turn with the vice grip.
 
Just to refine Ganderite's method a bit, I use a crescent wrench on the flat of the blade, close to the screw head. This stops any sideways movement that may occur when you lean onto the screwdriver which will cause slipping and damage. Some screwdrivers have hex shapes at the top of the shaft near the handle for this.
 
I have often used a soldering iron (tip slightly modified to sit in the slot better) along with penertrating oil, works real well i have found
 
5THBATT said:
I have often used a soldering iron (tip slightly modified to sit in the slot better) along with penertrating oil, works real well i have found
Click to expand...

Now that is a great tip. It's so obvious its silly. Trouble is that these days very few people even know what a soldering iron (copper) is. A piece of brass/copper rod would transmit heat just as well.

Good one. Thanks.
 
Go to any automotive store, even the Auto section at Canadian tire might be fine. Grab a bottle/jar of valve lapping compound, "fine" grit should be enough. dip your screwdriver in the compound and then attempt to remove the screw. The compound will give you extra "bite" in the screw so you can apply more force without risk of slipping. This will also allow you to apply less force pushing down and more force in turning the screw.

If you can find it, there is a dedicated grip liquid that is essentially the same thing just more liquid, but valve grinding compound is pretty easy to find and only costs a few bucks.
 
Similar to Slug's advice, if you have a vice that opens quite wide figure out a way to support the rifle within the jaws such that the top of the receiver is protected from scratching by hard wood and you are able to clamp (just slightly tight) a screw driver blade with hex shaft between the problem screw head and the other jaw of the vice. Then use a wrench on the screwdriver shaft to break loose the screw. Being clamped between two immovable objects means the screwdriver blade can't come out of the slot no matter what. I first used this trick to take apart Triumph motorcycle clutch centers but have used it to loosen trouble screws on a few rifles- including a nearly mint MLE whose rear triggerguard screw had almost no slot left in it. I had almost lost hope of ever getting the rifle apart but this method had the screw loose with no problem.

milsurpo
 
I recently went through this with a matching duv41, I bought it on a whim of hope it was all matching as the seller could not remove the action screws to verify the sear was matching. Now I had to use some finesse as the action screws on this particular rifle are numbered to the gun and busting them is not an option I'd of been comfortable with. I mixed up a 50/50 blend of acetone and dextron atf, shake well and used an eye dropper to apply in small amounts to the area, carefully not to expose it to the wood. I waited an hour then used the exact sized screw driver and vise grips to turn. I forgot to mention the rifle was in a rubber padded vise. Screws came out with a little force but not enough that I was worried about snapping them. Rifle tuned out out to be 100% matching :)
 
I have this same issue with a 1912 CG m96. I tried the atf/acetone mix, let it sit for over a week, and tried a wheelers hollow ground bit. All i managed to do was bust up the bit. A year later and i still haven't taken the action screws out. Maybe i'll try some heat see what happens...
 
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