Canadian Rangers 303 Brass

wayupnorth

CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
9   0   0
Location
Northern Alberta
i had an opportunity to pick up a couple thousand brass at a Canadian Ranger shoot but was told by pretty much by everyone there to stay away from it.
even the reg force guys turned their noses up at it.

they all said they would not trust it for reloading.

thoughts?

i understand there could be some crimped primer pockets but would the brass be that bad?

i can go grab a head stamp brand if that helps.
 
i had an opportunity to pick up a couple thousand brass at a Canadian Ranger shoot but was told by pretty much by everyone there to stay away from it.
even the reg force guys turned their noses up at it.

they all said they would not trust it for reloading.

thoughts?

i understand there could be some crimped primer pockets but would the brass be that bad?

i can go grab a head stamp brand if that helps.

I reloaded hundreds of those from the Inuvik range and it was fine.
 
i had an opportunity to pick up a couple thousand brass at a Canadian Ranger shoot but was told by pretty much by everyone there to stay away from it.
even the reg force guys turned their noses up at it.

they all said they would not trust it for reloading.

thoughts?

i understand there could be some crimped primer pockets but would the brass be that bad?

i can go grab a head stamp brand if that helps.

Pretty much going to depend on how sloppy the chamber was that each was shot in.

Some guns will show signs of case separation beginning, on the first firing, others not at all.

I wasn't over enamored with .303 back when $25 would buy you one fit to use, and surplus ammo was still pretty available. Pretty much all I would pick up the brass for is to pound it through gaskets to cut bolt holes. YMMV, obviously. If you have a use for it, grab it.

The cartridge is from an earlier era when case and chamber dimensions were expected to be further apart, and the experiences in the trenches with mud everywhere, made a sloppy chamber for feeding, a good thing.

If you reload the stuff, have a good look at each case before you start, cull mercilessly, and once the cases have been fired in your gun, try not to work the cases too much, mainly size the neck if you can, just enough to chamber easily in your rifle. It is all pretty dependent upon paying close attention to the cases for impending separation, and not working the case or resizing, more than you must. If your rifle happens to crank the base sideways a bit on firing, well, ya do what ya gotta do, and accept that there will be losses after few reloads, otherwise carry on as if you are normal, eh?

Nothing wrong with the brass, like as not, just not that many guys looking to reload a bunch of it these days compared to more modern ammo.

Cheers
Trev
 
I thought Ranger brass was IVI, thus supposed to be decent and on the heavier size for .303 brass?

I'd gladly love to have some.
 
That "Ranger Issue" brass is excellent quality. I have reloaded several thousands of that stuff in both 7.62x51 as well as 303 British. I have cases that have been reloaded for the same rifle with more than 20 reloads each on them.

Trevj commented it depends on the chamber of the rifle they were shot from. I have found this stuff to be no different than any other range brass.

When you reload it, try to use it in the same rifle. Then you only have to neck size and slightly bump the shoulder back by a few thousandths to ensure trouble free chambering. Basically you will be fire forming the brass to your specific chamber.

If you have several rifles chambered for the 303Brit and can't be bothered to keep the brass separate then you will eventually run into excessive case stretching issues and may a case head separation after as few as 3 reloadings. I speak from experience on this.

Other than that, there is no reason why this excellent quality brass shouldn't be re loaded. I re anneal my cases every after every four reloads. The only other 303 brass that seems to stand up as well is the old Dominion brand, some of which I have reloaded up to 40 times.

If you want good reliable case life, learn how to properly take care of the case. A proper annealing regimen is a must. Cleaning doesn't mean it has to be polished to a shine. I clean my brass in Sunlight dish detergent or Tide laundry soap. I throw all of it into a double layered pillow case and run it through a wash cycle in my clothes washing machine. Be careful not to use the spin dry cycle. This gets rid of all the carbon inside and outside that will eventually cause Die wear. Lube the inside of the necks before sizing, not just the outside.

Lots of little things that will make that brass last forever.

Also, that stuff make for excellent trade items for other brass you may need. Grab as much as you can and take it to a gun show to see what you can trade it for. It's like picking up money just laying on the ground or in the bins.
 
it so strange that everyone poopoo'd me saying i should reload it.

lots of "its made by the lowest bid so its the cheapest they could crank out"

834B86DF-28AF-4BB1-929A-A5EE30B91E65_zpseojdvy5b.jpg


796A814D-DE2C-48B2-8145-0DE88CC31CEB_zps3584ae5k.jpg
 
Last edited:
It is good quality brass. I have some that have been reloaded 6-7 times (full lenght) for testing purposes. I'm glad I got my hands on a lot of them.

Those who frowned upon it definitly missed out on something
 
It is excellent brass.
Inspect it very carefully. Some of the rifles may have very generous headspace, and the cases will be showing signs of incipient separations. I expect to cull close to 20% because of this.
 
The cartridge is from an earlier era when case and chamber dimensions were expected to be further apart, and the experiences in the trenches with mud everywhere, made a sloppy chamber for feeding, a good thing.

Many Enfields do have enlarged chambers, but my 1912 No. 1 Mk. 3 has a standard sized chamber (I suspect all early Lee Enfields did as well). As does my P14, and all Rosses in original configuration (provided they weren't reamed). It was more the result of the British finding that with a rimmed cartridge they didn't need tight dimensions on the chambers rather than the cartridge being designed for loose dimensions. When you aren't reloading it isn't a big deal, in fact it can be seen as a benefit as it allowed you to use out of spec ammo (*cough* poor quality British WWI ammo *cough*).
 
I would change shooting circles. There is nothing wrong with IVI brass. I have quite a supply of the brass accumulated over time and I find it to be excellent brass. I shoot a lot of lead bullets using my Longbranch and have experienced zero issues and no indication of head separation after multiple loadings. I would think a couple thousand cases will last you two lifetimes nut maybe not.

Take Care

Bob
 
The IVI 303 brass was made as commercial, not military brass. It is light compared to some military versions.

It is good quality brass, comparable to Winchester and Federal.

Just do the initial inspection as suggested above and for the first loading for your rifle, only FL size enough so that the cases will chamber in your rifle. After that, neck size only.
 
I have a bunch of IVI brass 303 brass from the rangers. Its fantastic. It is not berdan primed. I have reloaded them a about seven times and they are looking good as new. I would share the wealth but CGN seems to take issue with selling IVI brass.
 
I picked up close to 400 from a sponsor. It all looks to be in great shape, I only had to toss 3-4 cases. I am going to load it with some hornady RN 174grn bullets just as soon as I find some H414 for a decent price...
 
Well, this thread got me thinking...

I just picked up a lee classic loader in 303 off the EE. It neck sizes only.

I don't shoot 303, but my dad has his sporter he's always hunted with, and I figured I'd make him up some plinking rounds, as well as some 180 hunting loads eventually.

I had considered picking up some brass off the EE to get started, but with only having the ability to necknsize, and range brass being as sloppy as you folks suggest, perhaps that's not such a great idea... No point in neck sizing if the casings too fat to fit in his chamber.

Is there something specific I should be looking for when buying brass of the EE, that would indicate it likely hasn't been pushed too far and would fit in my dad's chamber? His, is a "Sears-Roebuck" sporter he got in his teens. Perhaps the chamber would be just as sloppy?
 
Partial FL means using a Full Length sizing die in a manner that only partially resizes the case. This is comparable, and in some cases superior to neck sizing. Its achieved by leaving a gap between the die and the shell holder (I use a toonie).
 
Back
Top Bottom