choke removal help needed

700power

700power

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Need some help fellas.
I bought a few firearms off my brother, one of them being a stoeger 12g pump. I've been trying for the past month or so to remove the choke which is obviously seize in but having no luck. I've given it a light shot of stuff that suppose to absorb and free up rust but having no luck.(I don't recall the name of the stuff) I've done this quite a few times.
Thinking about taking it out to the range and firing a bunch of rounds through it to see if that helps.
Any other suggestions? The removal tool I'm using right now is the one that came in with my Beretta since the cheap little T one it came with just seems to bends.
 
Hi---Stand the barrel in a soup/coffee can for a week or more using a kroil or a good penetrating oil before trying anything
cut a piece of 1/2 in aluminum about 6 in long that just fits the choke
Clean the choke with brake cleaner
Plug the bottom of the choke with paper towel
Epoxy the aluminum into the choke--the paper stop the epoxy from entering the barrel
When the epoxy is set hold the barrel in a will padded vice
With a wrench turn out the choke tube using the aluminum bar
Clean the tube with a bit of heat to get the epoxy out
Has worked for me
Sydney
 
That seems like a good idea, but my only concern is that the shotgun has a mossy oak wrap on it, and I'm thinking if I let it soak the wrap would probably peel. No?
 
Try PB Blaster and some heat from a hair dryer.
Heat the muzzle end spray the PB Blaster (trade name) at the choke .
Failing that, there is also some stuff from Loc Tite that will freeze or super cool metal and shrink it allowing one to get the choke wrench on and spin it out.
Then again the afore mentioned tricks/tips prolly cost less than the solutions I mention.
Soaking a week will not really be needed , but its your call.
Also look up Ed's Red and mix up a batch for yourself.
Rob

ps, I see where your concerned with a finish...well wht do you want to remove the choke or keep the mossy oak wrap/finish.
There are no free rides.
 
Ed's Red is what you should use. Let the barrel stand in it overnight. It's very easy to make and it's the best bore cleaner around. Don't let any wood furniture (stock, forearm, etc.) come in contact with it, because the acetone will negatively impact it. Once you get it off clean the threads really well.

Good Luck.
 
A solution that usually works but requires a lathe is as follows. Mount the barrel in the lathe and use the tailstock to keep the wrench in the barrel then turn a wrench and it should come free. This method keeps the wrench from slipping out and getting damaged, much the same idea as putting all your weight down on a screw driver to keep it from slipping an buggering the screw head
 
Kroil or Zep. Both are evil magic. I've seen Zep unstick things I thought were seized forever. And I've seen Kroil get under lead in a BPCR barrel and work it loose.

Evil Magic.
 
There may be another problem. From what I've seen in such situations it isn't rust but powder residue forced into the threads by pressure and often some deformation to the threads by shooting slugs through choke tube equipped bores.

One thing you may want to consider is just leave it as is. The choke that is jammed in there is likely the one you would use most in a hunting situation anyway.

Mind you, if you just can't handle it not being perfect, you are likely going to have serious trouble removing that choke without doing some damage to the finish/tube and quite likely the threads.

If the barrel isn't ribbed you may be better off cutting it back to the start of the threads and having them re cut for the other chokes you have. That Stoeger (I just looked it up), if it's a P350 will have a rib so that's out. Mind you, it isn't a high end shotgun so you may want to consider spending any money on it. Might be cheaper to just get a replacement barrel.
 
Most choke tubes get stuck because they weren't greased or had anti-seize put on them and then were left for a long time to 'fester". They can be and usually are a SOB to remove but it can be done , if you're not confident to do it yourself a good gunsmith should be able to get it off without costing too much$$$.
 
Before all this WD 40 fancy break free stuff, OldSchool was to just heat too about 300 degrees add iodine it suck iodine into threads and just like magic it release pretty easily.
 
I had a choke tube seize in a stoeger 2000. I broke multiple tools. I soaked it in penetrating oil for 6 months (didn't hurt the camo finish). I devcon steel putty epoxied a bolt into the choke and cranked on it with a socket and breaker bar with the barrel in a vice. I tried various methods of heating and freezing. Then I bought a new barrel and sold the damn gun. I couldn't stand to look at it anymore. I still can't figure out how it seized so badly as it was cleaned regularly.
 
Have you got a big enough bolt extractor that fits in the choke? Or if you are good at welding plug weld (spot weld it slowly) a bolt on the inside of the choke and get a wrench on it. Use small welds and wrap the barrel in a wet towel to help protect the camo wrap.
Otherwise he only other option may be heat which will ruin the wrap.
 
Boomer686 said:
Have you got a big enough bolt extractor that fits in the choke? Or if you are good at welding plug weld (spot weld it slowly) a bolt on the inside of the choke and get a wrench on it. Use small welds and wrap the barrel in a wet towel to help protect the camo wrap.
Otherwise he only other option may be heat which will ruin the wrap.
Click to expand...

welding inside the choke will reduce the diameter and get it loose. but ovetpenetration or over heat wil weld the threads

marine gasiol(red colored diesel) have beed used for many decades in marine industrie to soak rusted small stuff like chain hoist and other tools

the smallest tinyest crack/void there is, diesel will get into it over time.

if someone had the idea to put locktite istead of lube to put it in, then heat(controled. over heat will anneal the steel or weld the threads) may be the only option
 
cbh560 said:
I had a choke tube seize in a stoeger 2000. I broke multiple tools. I soaked it in penetrating oil for 6 months (didn't hurt the camo finish). I devcon steel putty epoxied a bolt into the choke and cranked on it with a socket and breaker bar with the barrel in a vice. I tried various methods of heating and freezing. Then I bought a new barrel and sold the damn gun. I couldn't stand to look at it anymore. I still can't figure out how it seized so badly as it was cleaned regularly.
Click to expand...

Ahhhh but did you take out the choke each time you cleaned it????? I had to learn the hard way as well to do so.
 
i have removed many stuck choke tubes by clamping the barrel in a vise, using soft jaws and driving a brass punch with a tapered end into the choke tube with a hammer. Then I use vise grips on the punch to turn it out.. Have never damaged a barrel this way and usually the choke tube is undamaged as well. Use discretion when pounding the brass into the choke tube and if it slips the first time, drive it in harder the next time. Usually works the first time for me. Hope this helps
 
bearhunter said:
Ahhhh but did you take out the choke each time you cleaned it????? I had to learn the hard way as well to do so.
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Indeed it was. Took it to a gunsmith and he gauged the choke. If I remember correctly the full choke that was stuck in it had a constriction that was somewhere around 6 or 7 though tighter than it should have been. Only think I could think of it perhaps the choke "bulged" into the threads without any noticeable barrel bulge. The gunsmith wasn't willing to touch it.
 
I second the idea of using epoxy to glue in a piece of steel that you can put a decent wrench on. Used this trick on buggered up tranny and transfer case plugs as well.
 
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