Any 10GA shooters out there??

Mine were 95 and 98. Yup look like an SX1 on steroids. I never had issues with any brand of ammo with my 98. My 95 didn't like Federal hulls or at least not the Black Cloud loads I tried with it. My 98 was my first one and it never jammed or failed once in 10 years of hunting with it. I liked shooting last. The birds were going away and being a trap shooter calculating the angles was purely instinctive and a goose or duck has no protection whatsoever on its back and the vitals are right up against it. No breast meat or breast bone to penetrate and the feathers are extremely thin on the back, not like a down filled mitt on the front. Centered going away and they drop like a ton of bricks. Plus when nobody else was shooting there was no disputing who hit what?! ;)

Long live the mighty King 10!! :)
 
I only shoot ten gauges now. Browning golds and a new to come mag 10. Aftermarket ported tubes really work well with large shot.i shoot bb on up to bbb with a kicks and also a petrnmaster full .the guys that say a 12 kicks less have no clue if the gun fits right. I actually shortened th stock on my gold by 3/4 of an inch so i can mount while having heavy clothes. The mag ten weights more than the gold light. Ive had guides ask me to shoot birds when they were flaring and they needed some birds down to keep moral of other hunters up. Also i finish birds in the air that have been hit by lesser guns.you just simply cannot compare the twelve and 10. make sure you use the same ammo speeds when changing shot sizes ,can mess up your lead and rythm on birds.went on a snow goose hunt with two guides and the birds were so educated and out of range for the mighty twelve 3.5 that the ten just dropped them.wasnt just me other guys in the pit that had tens had the same results.the two guides didnt show up the next days hunt and went home.im going to try reloading this year as i hear it makes even more of a spread between the twelve and ten.the tweve is great for walking the fields but the ten belongs in the pits and blinds.enjoy the ten ammo can be had for 280 to 300 a flat and last year i went through 3 flats.View attachment 116204View attachment 116205
 
Can someone explain in scientific terms why a 10ga payload that is equal in weight and speed can kill geese out to 70 yards while a 3.5" 12 ga can only kill effectively out to 30 or 40 yards? I mean proven science, not just anecdotal account of "ol uncle so and so".

The reason I bring this up is, I have stated in other threads I rather like the versatility of 3.5" 12ga guns and fine them good for waterfowling, only to have the usual "nobody needs 3.5" guns...ol uncle so and so used 2 2/4" for geese for 70 years and never needed anything more" comments over and over. When the discussion turns to 10ga, it seems everyone treats the gauge with reverence. I find it mystifying.
 
dilly said:
Can someone explain in scientific terms why a 10ga payload that is equal in weight and speed can kill geese out to 70 yards while a 3.5" 12 ga can only kill effectively out to 30 or 40 yards? I mean proven science, not just anecdotal account of "ol uncle so and so".

The reason I bring this up is, I have stated in other threads I rather like the versatility of 3.5" 12ga guns and fine them good for waterfowling, only to have the usual "nobody needs 3.5" guns...ol uncle so and so used 2 2/4" for geese for 70 years and never needed anything more" comments over and over. When the discussion turns to 10ga, it seems everyone treats the gauge with reverence. I find it mystifying.
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To me simple
The 3-1/2″ ten is more potent with equal loads than the 3-1/2″ 12 because it’s a .775″ bore 10 against a .729″~.742″ (backbore) 12. The ten as a result produces a better shot string and deforms less pellets especially the larger ones which means better patterns at longer ranges
Cheers
Oh yes as far as uncle goes he more than likely shot geese with lead not steel shot.
 
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dilly said:
Can someone explain in scientific terms why a 10ga payload that is equal in weight and speed can kill geese out to 70 yards while a 3.5" 12 ga can only kill effectively out to 30 or 40 yards? I mean proven science, not just anecdotal account of "ol uncle so and so".

The reason I bring this up is, I have stated in other threads I rather like the versatility of 3.5" 12ga guns and fine them good for waterfowling, only to have the usual "nobody needs 3.5" guns...ol uncle so and so used 2 2/4" for geese for 70 years and never needed anything more" comments over and over. When the discussion turns to 10ga, it seems everyone treats the gauge with reverence. I find it mystifying.
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Bore diameter , stack height of the pay load in the hull and the resulting shot sting length .would be major factors why the 10 ga out preforms the 3.5" 12 ga I would think . the closer a payload is to being a square load the better it tends to pattern . ( square load = the stack height and bore width of the payload that are the same dimension or are very close .)
 
Not to be argumentative here, but we are talking in terms of thousands of inches in the bore and probably an 8th of an inch when it comes to shot stacks. I see the argument because I have used this to pontificate why I love to shoot 16ga in the uplands...but I admit, I see no difference in how dead pheasants are when shot with a 3" 20ga.

In my opinion (and that's all it is) a 10ga is romantic albeit effective gun for heavy duty waterfowl. The guns are heavy, the shells are expensive, and it's only got one application. A 12 ga 3.5" is far more versatile. You can use it for everything pretty much even though it is a jack of all trades I admit. My Extrema in the hands of a skilled shooter with waterfowl experience, I wager will be indistinguishable to a guy next to it with a 10ga.
 
dilly said:
Not to be argumentative here, but we are talking in terms of thousands of inches in the bore and probably an 8th of an inch when it comes to shot stacks. I see the argument because I have used this to pontificate why I love to shoot 16ga in the uplands...but I admit, I see no difference in how dead pheasants are when shot with a 3" 20ga.

In my opinion (and that's all it is) a 10ga is romantic albeit effective gun for heavy duty waterfowl. The guns are heavy, the shells are expensive, and it's only got one application. A 12 ga 3.5" is far more versatile. You can use it for everything pretty much even though it is a jack of all trades I admit. My Extrema in the hands of a skilled shooter with waterfowl experience, I wager will be indistinguishable to a guy next to it with a 10ga.
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LOL
Ya OK
No opinion . Here is what I know from a test I did years ago

Own two browning golds 10ga and two golds 12 ga 3 1/2 since new and still have them ( plus 6 or more other 3 1/2 12ga's)
Years ago fitted both with briley choke tubes IM mainly is my pick and the same rsi reloads as far as payload goes and did up 6 or eight different combos
The pattern differences over 50 yards and beyond on paper were night and day especially the duplex loads which I like

The guys I hunted with were all dam good trap and skeet shooters one runs the 100's still and they see a difference when there is the old 10ga in the blind for sure

I remember back in 1984 heading to pei with my 12ga 1100 goose hunting and was in my prime in those years as far as target shooting and joined the two outfitters one day in a blind both were retired RCMP officers and unknown to me using remington sp-10 ga's. Some will know the outfitters I am talking about

About 1/2 way though the morning I seen enough that I said the next year I am going to have one of those and I did and never looked back. A trip to quebec duck hunting over open water with very long pass shooting they actually recommended the 10ga I recall

Don't wager that extrema in from on me in the blind unless you want to lose it :)

If one only has one shotgun yes get a 3 1/2 12ga but if you do a lot of goose or coyote hunting and can afford another get a 10ga and don't get me started about 16ga since I have a nice collection of those also and love shooting the 16ga so I don't want to start beating on the 20ga 3" :) But upland and goose hunting is night and day to me with respect to guns used
Cheers
 
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I use a lite gold for waterfowl almost exclusively.
While my partners may knock down birds, the number of follow up shots required for lethality are substantial.
Such is the performance of steel shot.
Unless you can afford matrix shot or any of the others which duplicate or exceed the performance of lead, be prepared for that result.
The 10 seems to yield a very high percentage of 1 shot kills with steel vs blazing away at wounded birds on the water with smaller gauges.
Pattern densities are excellant using a terror tube .720, and that may be the difference
Just my experience.
 
I have an H&R single 10 that I planned to use tomorrow for goose opener. But then I fell off a motorcycle yesterday, so there goes that plan.

I used to have a double barrel, but that is gone.

I'm keen to try the 835, for its versatility, but I'm fairly certain it'll beat me up too much--everyone seems to think so.
 
Say a guy was sitting on a few hundred rounds of 10g lead ammo, is it fairly valuable? BB, duplex 4/6, #4 and lots of 1 3/4oz slugs. I notice lead ammunition seems nearly impossible to find in stores.
 
B said:
Say a guy was sitting on a few hundred rounds of 10g lead ammo, is it fairly valuable? BB, duplex 4/6, #4 and lots of 1 3/4oz slugs. I notice lead ammunition seems nearly impossible to find in stores.
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I dunno about super valuable, but it's certainly hard to find. I paid $2 a round for buckshot not that long ago. I'd love to get my hands on some lead, for cormorant shooting.
 
B said:
Say a guy was sitting on a few hundred rounds of 10g lead ammo, is it fairly valuable? BB, duplex 4/6, #4 and lots of 1 3/4oz slugs. I notice lead ammunition seems nearly impossible to find in stores.
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The hulls are worth more than the ammo other than the slugs
Most 10ga owners reload so can make whatever they want even in lead
Cheers
 
thegunnut said:
I use a lite gold for waterfowl almost exclusively.
While my partners may knock down birds, the number of follow up shots required for lethality are substantial.
Such is the performance of steel shot.
Unless you can afford matrix shot or any of the others which duplicate or exceed the performance of lead, be prepared for that result.
The 10 seems to yield a very high percentage of 1 shot kills with steel vs blazing away at wounded birds on the water with smaller gauges.
Pattern densities are excellant using a terror tube .720, and that may be the difference
Just my experience.
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What you describe was the major reason I started reloading steel in 10ga. I find the rsi high speed reloads work much better than factory ammo
Cheers
 
dilly said:
Can someone explain in scientific terms why a 10ga payload that is equal in weight and speed can kill geese out to 70 yards while a 3.5" 12 ga can only kill effectively out to 30 or 40 yards? I mean proven science, not just anecdotal account of "ol uncle so and so".

The reason I bring this up is, I have stated in other threads I rather like the versatility of 3.5" 12ga guns and fine them good for waterfowling, only to have the usual "nobody needs 3.5" guns...ol uncle so and so used 2 2/4" for geese for 70 years and never needed anything more" comments over and over. When the discussion turns to 10ga, it seems everyone treats the gauge with reverence. I find it mystifying.
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Just remember the rules. When you talk 28 and 16, small gauges hit harder than larger ones. When you talk about the 10, large gauges hit harder. Oh, and one hits like this and kicks like that. And square loads and shot strings and fancy after market choke tubes and stuff.

To people who just shoot and hunt it is fairly straight forward. But if you want, you can make it very complex.
 
Have 10g bps, love it, heavy gun for the marsh but its great in the blind/field. Hate that 10g shells have gone from the price of 3 1/2 12g magnum to $25 a box to $48 a box.
 
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