Just got into SS pin wet tumbling and learned a few things.

Onagoth said:
i stopped using the pins...much easier to clean up and all the major #### still comes off
Click to expand...

I am going to test this next.

What I found that worked very well to remove and confirm that all the pins are out.

Use the media sperator after the initial water cleaning and after the brass is dried.

Twenty rotations in both directions.

Cheers,
 
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I sometimes give the dirty brass a quick wash in a bucket of soapy water before depriming and sizing, it gets rid of most of the dirt.
Then I do what Bearhunter and tjhaile suggested.
 
Onagoth said:
i stopped using the pins...much easier to clean up and all the major #### still comes off
Click to expand...

I did a few batches without the pins last summer and they came out pretty good, unless I want to be extra fussy with some of the brass, I'll do the majority of my 9mm & 45 like this fom now on.
 
I’ve tumbled brass pinless and it works well. Brass is not spotless but reloadable for sure.

I find using hot water works well. I also fill the drum 3/4 of the way so the action of the water improves helps the wash. A 10 minute rinse with cold water in the tumbler as a final step.
 
Since I have proven to myself that "shiny like new" cases do not produce any superior ammo,
I will eschew the SS pin method and stick with my Walnut/Corncob media tumbler.
This is not intended to put down anyone who feels they must use the SS pin system.
Just my personal preference. and it works for me. Dave.
 
I also do not want to rain on SS tumble parade, it is very popular and with good reasons.
Myself, after 3 years of wet tumbling, have completely dropped it and purchased myself a dry tumbler once more.

Let's say it has to do with the amount of friction wet tumbled brass produces in dies for pistol, as my 9mm casing just glide on my 650 when dry tumbled with media polish.
For rifle, the friction had to do with my Lee Collet neck sizing die and the pilot on my forster neck turning station. Since i did not want to start lubing inside of neck, also solved this by dry tumbling.

On the downside, i am now exposing my basement once again to lead contaminants i had rid of by wet tumbling.
 
MartyK2500 said:
I also do not want to rain on SS tumble parade, it is very popular and with good reasons.
Myself, after 3 years of wet tumbling, have completely dropped it and purchased myself a dry tumbler once more.

Let's say it has to do with the amount of friction wet tumbled brass produces in dies for pistol, as my 9mm casing just glide on my 650 when dry tumbled with media polish.
For rifle, the friction had to do with my Lee Collet neck sizing die and the pilot on my forster neck turning station. Since i did not want to start lubing inside of neck, also solved this by dry tumbling.

On the downside, i am now exposing my basement once again to lead contaminants i had rid of by wet tumbling.
Click to expand...
Did you try to lightly lube your cases after wet tumbling and drying.. I line them up in one direction and don't go over board with the spray once from the top of a large ZIPLOCK bag and then roll the cases in the bag.. no issues with lube in cases so far.
 
I'm going to try one of these:

http://www.uniquetek.com/product/T1582

Custom Powder Funnel

These Custom Powder Funnels are precision machined from top grade 12L14 Steel and hardened to RC55+ … offering an almost unlimited life time of use. The electro-polished finish of this part yields minimal friction and a smoother release … especially with new brass or brass that's been wet cleaned with stainless steel pins or in an ultrasonic cleaner.


Features
• Precision Machined from 12L14 Steel
• Hardened to RC55+
• Expander Tip Dimensions Optimized for use with Mr. Bullerfeeder
• Highly Polished Expander Tip for Smooth Release
• Smoother Interior for Smooth Powder Flow
• Drop In Replacement for Original Dillon Powder Funnel

Available Calibers
— 9mm/.38 cal. (T1582-01) — [Also works for .38 Super, .38 Special and .357 Magnum.]
— 10mm/.40 cal. (T1582-02)
— .45 cal. (T1582-03) — [Also for .45 Colt with .452″ bullets.]

Custom-Powder-Funnel-45cal-4inH.jpg
 

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silverfoxdj said:
Did you try to lightly lube your cases after wet tumbling and drying.. I line them up in one direction and don't go over board with the spray once from the top of a large ZIPLOCK bag and then roll the cases in the bag.. no issues with lube in cases so far.
Click to expand...

If we are speaking pistol, yes i had to start lubing. I used to run lubeless before wet tumbling, had to lube once wet tumbling.
Ziploc bag with a few sprays of dillon case lube (alcohol+lanolin) and shake it like you would shake and bake chicken in batter.
The process still wasn't as smooth as dry tumbled, and if i didn't wipe brass after loading ammo would be gummy to the touch.

Speaking rifle, for body sizing got to lube regardless.
Being dry tumbled with polish does make it a bit smoother to pass in die, and saved a whole lot of problems neck tension wise.


Like i said i did enjoy the fact that it would for a lead free environment, quicker to process, cleaner to process etc...
On rifle on top of it, decapping before tumbling would save the process of manually cleaning primer pockets.
If i wouldn't of started reloading 308 last year i would of stuck to wet tumbling.
Dry tumbling did correct neck sizing/turning problems wet tumbling had induced.

Mystic Precision had suggested i use dry graphite lube in/on necks and problem would be solved.
In my case i said eff it, out the tumbler goes, and dillon 650 is now back to it's original effortless state, can reload with only a finger hanging on...
 
MartyK2500 said:
If we are speaking pistol, yes i had to start lubing. I used to run lubeless before wet tumbling, had to lube once wet tumbling.
Ziploc bag with a few sprays of dillon case lube (alcohol+lanolin) and shake it like you would shake and bake chicken in batter.
The process still wasn't as smooth as dry tumbled, and if i didn't wipe brass after loading ammo would be gummy to the touch.

Speaking rifle, for body sizing got to lube regardless.
Being dry tumbled with polish does make it a bit smoother to pass in die, and saved a whole lot of problems neck tension wise.


Like i said i did enjoy the fact that it would for a lead free environment, quicker to process, cleaner to process etc...
On rifle on top of it, decapping before tumbling would save the process of manually cleaning primer pockets.
If i wouldn't of started reloading 308 last year i would of stuck to wet tumbling.
Dry tumbling did correct neck sizing/turning problems wet tumbling had induced.

Mystic Precision had suggested i use dry graphite lube in/on necks and problem would be solved.
In my case i said eff it, out the tumbler goes, and dillon 650 is now back to it's original effortless state, can reload with only a finger hanging on...
Click to expand...

Since you already have both tumblers, you could keep wet tumbling to get rid of lead and all the contaminants, and after the cases are dry, 5 minutes of dry tumbling. That way your dry media would never see any dirt or anything other than pure brass, and it would last forever, and your brass would still be "dry-lubed".
 
I did that at first
Takes more like an hour for brass to lose it’s shiny brass stickyness
When i say sticky, it’s that it sticks to dies.

Had the CED wet tumbler with CED dryer
Great machines if you’re in to that
Sold it all after 3 years of use

And hoping i won’t poison myself too bad in the next 20 yesrs!
 
I haven't noticed that with wet tumbling like you described.
My cases don't stick unless I've done something wrong in my procedures.
 
I never tried dry media vibratory cleaning. Started with Ultrasonic but then I wanted shiny brass for some stupid reason so I went with a Thumbler and steel pins.. I always decap first so pocket primers get cleaned. Some cartridge sizes are more prone to pins getting stuck sideways but I have a magnet that I tap them on after drying just in case any pins stayed in the case. In addition to Dawn, I have also tried laundry or dish washer detergent which didnt give me all the suds. One other additive I use if my brass is very dirty is 2 shots of Spray 9 - that stuff seems to remove grease, carbon etc from anything. With wet cleaning I do find using the dry graphite lube inside the neck makes things easier and I like Imperial wax for the case. After loading my cartridges I spray rubbing alcohol on a towel and just roll my cartridges on it and that removes any of the wax on the outside of the case so they are not sticky.
 
I am not sure if this has been mentioned but this is how I do it... 7 to 900 casings all the same caliber. (pistol), pins,1 dish detergent pod, 1tbs lemi shine and fill tumbler half full with luke warm water. I usually run the tumbler for 90 minutes or so. I bought a veg. colander from the dollar store, this is great for seperating and collecting pins. I started using a food dehydrator to dry casings and pins. Bought it from CTC, it works great. Brass comes out very clean and shiny, I have had no issues reloading or having my firearms cycle when shooting. If you are getting a greasy coating on your casings you are using too much detergent or not enough water...just my 2 cents worth.Steve O
 
I should mention I bought a colander but also got a large fine screen one that sits inside it to catch those pesky pins when I’m pouring out the casings, then as I shake it he water out of the casing etc the pins sit in the screen - works great and I don’t loose pins down the drain
 
Eagleye said:
Since I have proven to myself that "shiny like new" cases do not produce any superior ammo,
I will eschew the SS pin method and stick with my Walnut/Corncob media tumbler.
This is not intended to put down anyone who feels they must use the SS pin system.
Just my personal preference. and it works for me. Dave.
Click to expand...

This is what I do as well. Tried the pins but didn't see any improvement. Walnut media and a squirt of NuFinish is all I need.
 
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