Ruger 10/22 Carbine LTR Project

mosinmaster

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Hey all,

I picked up a used 10/22 Carbine circa 2012 manufacture, and did some reading on things to make it more shooter ready. It probably has several hundred rounds through it so you can see the wear marks. I'm going to make this into a Liberty Training Rifle, and I wanted something serviceable without spending a lot of money. We have Mapleseed up in Canada, which is our equivalent to Appleseed and I want to use this rifle. I've ordered Tech Sights TRS200 and will add a USGI 1.25" sling as well.

I used the Scotch-Brite Pad and just smoothed everything over with very fine grit sand paper. It's now very smooth and cocking the hammer back with one finger is possible, which is quite a dramatic improvement. Furthermore, the trigger pull which was 7 lbs before polishing is now 5.5-6 lbs now. It's dramatically improved, and I don't think I need to get a new hammer or sear for the time being. Can anybody explain this?

I do find that my action spring rod is quite gritty and I cleaned it off but did not polish it. I just gave it 2 drops of oil and worked it in. Not sure if I should polish this part as well, and I would like your opinions.

Here's a little photo journal and some videos showing the difference in friction.

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6fwBTqL.jpg


pHnCmAJ.jpg


Action Pre-Polish
[youtube]stOIdjCW83I[/youtube]

6qF7OuZ.jpg


44m52fR.jpg


Action Post-Polish
[youtube]W3JiUuz-gMg[/youtube]

The trigger pull is almost a "3-stage", with Stage 1 being taking up the slack, Stage 2 being a bit of audible and repeatable creep that hits a wall, and Stage 3 is (now) a very crisp break at 5.5-6lbs.
[youtube]QyzrX5tS0FA[/youtube]

Update April 2, 2018

After 2nd round of polishing

FmJbCew.jpg[


[youtube]nnIZjYIV4Qo[/youtube]
 
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You'll find tons of tips for 1022's. The best and cheapest thing I've found to start with is polishing the internals of the trigger group, the bolt itself , and the inside of the receiver all with 600 grit paper. it's difficult to do but don't take too much material off. Once all that is done, with some light oil it should run really well through loads of rounds. The beauty too, is once it's all polished, it's easier to clean.
 
I'd recognize the Kiwi polishing cloth anywhere. How do you think boot polish would do as a substitute for grease? :D

Good eye! ;)

I might actually go back in and just polish off the entire internal receiver till it's bare and smooth aluminum. Will repost and see if it's even smoother. The factory guide rod and spring assembly is quite gritty, so will also polish that as well.
 
Be careful. The 10/22 bug can bite hard. I had it years ago and don't really want to think of how many hours and dollars I put into mine. Lol
But it now will put cheap ae ammo into -1/2 inch at fifty yards all day long.
Have fun
 
I'm keeping mine in regular Carbine form, just optimizing the factory parts for best accuracy and operation.

If I like the platform enough, I might go for the Dlask DAR 22 :p
 
im glad to see im not the only one who cleans out the inside of the 10/22's when they get them.
they are always so full of overspray paint and such.... makes me cringe!

i always do the entire inside of the receiver, both sides and the upderside of the top. usually use 600 then 1200 wet paper with a light oil.
once smooth then i polish it with a dremel and either jewelers rouge or an aluminum polish, whatever im in the mood for that day.

i do the same for the bolt on any surface that rubs.
so the high points on the top, the entire bottom and usually the far side (not the side that is open to the ejection port.

after that is done the bolt usually slides back and forth like a greased pig on a hot afternoon.

little quick polish of the hammer rub points and done.

its surprising how much a hour of playing with some sanding and polishing can do to a 10/22.

i have also found that the last couple 10/22's i purchased had a surprising amount of.... rust(?) on the bolts.
think i have some pics uploaded, ill go look.
 
polish job on the bottom of a bolt

994B4590-E204-48EE-838F-072AAA034D42_zpsj57wemho.jpg

same bolt before
E7D43C05-EFC7-4C12-AA08-F633FDFD0A0C_zps5xdtsmdu.jpg


different bolt, far side of the bolt before
Ruger%20Charger%20039_zpsijwackyq.jpg

after polish
Ruger%20Charger%20053_zpsdn8tnkzl.jpg


the overspray inside a brand new 10/22
Ruger%20Charger%20047_zpsflxvqlmb.jpg

after cleaning it up some
Ruger%20Charger%20062_zpsjzkomnjq.jpg


not a drastic polish job on that one, just wanted to get where the bolt runs smoother.

here is a 3rd gun:
inside before
034_zpsb23a30e0.jpg

035_zpsc070d7ee.jpg


inside after
039_zpsac59217d.jpg


bolt before
032_zpsa6fc6af3.jpg

031_zps7a0f4f0e.jpg

028_zpsdd2dc8a6.jpg


bolt after
048_zps7a743ad0.jpg

047_zps9a787065.jpg

044_zps0e7a00f9.jpg


if im not mistaken those 3 10/22's are 1st one SR10/22, 2nd one Charger, 3rd one 50th anv ed.
 
Went in and did a bit of spot work and I think this is as far as I want to go without changing the receiver specs.

FmJbCew.jpg


Currently doing the auto-bolt release. I filed it flat, but it looks like I need to add a radius to allow for smooth transition. In the current state, it locks the bolt back but jams the action when trying to release on the flat radius.
 
After the 2nd round of polishing, no more bolt sliding friction as compared to the previous. Also took a fine sand paper to the guide rod which is quite rough. In the clip all you can hear is the spring compressing against the rough guide rod.

[youtube]nnIZjYIV4Qo[/youtube]
 
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