Bowhunting Black Bear

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I have the opportunity to hunt Black bear with a bow this summer. The outfitter has stands set up over bait. However, hunting bear from the ground with a bow has been on my bucket list for years. The outfitter is fine with this. Although, I don't think he realizes I shoot recurve...

Any advice from those who have done it?
Setup, shot placement, etc.

I'm pretty sure I'm the odd man out as most are happy with their compounds sitting in a tree....

Anyway, please feel free to share your advice or stories. I'm just looking to supplement my own experiences and research.
 
It's hard to find a blind big enough for a recurve. I killed a blackie with my recurve out of a treestand. It was a rush. You might have to custom make a blind or dig a foxhole in a popup. Hopefully you're shooting a 58" or shorter now. Kmag would be a good choice
 
Contact hoytcannon. He has done alot of archery bear hunting.
Id suggest building a natural barricade behind you so the bear will have to walk out around you broadside. Do the same on the far side of bait so the bear has to turn broadside to get the bait. You dont want him coming in straight on. Be as still as possible and wait until his head is either covered or looking away to draw. After the shot listen as best as you can to wear he falls
 
BC bear hunting is ground stalking with no baiting, so we consider spot and stalk as the norm and to be very productive on bears. Spring greens along landings and roads are your best bets. You may find that type of hunt to be exhilarating as well if your guide has some opportunities there.

Regardless of bow gear you are looking to manage a shot into a 6" kill zone very tight to the shoulder, slightly quartering away. I recommend landing your arrows tight to the crease as I call it. Hitting a bear far back like some shots on deer results in a gut shot. So the tighter to the shoulder the better and mid body.

As far as gear goes, do not feel under bowed with the stick. I am sure you are using some form of #40 plus bow with cut on contact broad head, with heavy arrows so penetration and cutting with full pass throughs should be the norm. Keep your shots under 30 yards with the stick bow and you will be golden. Bears are not hard to kill if the shot is placed well.

Good luck on your adventure and some good potential for jalepeno cheese smokies will follow.

Elkys two bits
 
Your outfitter should be able to get you properly situated for a ground blind with a recurve... I do not recommend any of the tent style blinds, they are too restrictive and really diminish your connection to the experience. A simple die cut camo netting in a semi circle of 180 - 270 degrees around front and sides, brushed in with indigenous foliage (spruce or balsam branches etc...), will be more than sufficient. Remember to sit far enough back in the blind that your bow limb does not contact the blind on the forward stroke at release. It helps if you have some sort of natural barrier to the rear of your blind, to block bears from approaching from the rear, ie. a creek, rock wall, impenetrable brush etc... the blind should be positioned down wind of not only the bait, but also the expected approach route of the incoming bears... the surest way to make bears nocturnal on a bait is to hunt it on a bad wind... your outfitter will know this and should have multiple locations for you to hunt from. If you are comfortable shooting your recurve at 20 yards, that is the sweet spot for distance from blind to target, at 10 or 15 yards, bears have a hyper-vigilence regarding sound and movement, that does not mean you can't take one closer, but you up the odds of avoiding detection by staying back a bit... I have shot a few bears at "fur petting" distance, but that is not my preference. As said above, it helps to have a bait wall to force the bears in broadside. I always spiked a half teepee of logs to the backside of the bait tree, this will maximize the time the bear is in a broadside orientation, giving you better shot opportunities. About half of my archery bears were taken from treestand over bait, the other 30 or so were taken via spot & stalk, calling and set up in ground blinds over natural food sources... so you should not feel that you are severely limiting your chances by hunting on the ground.
 
Good advice already given.
Need to have very good scent control/elimination practices in use. You may fool their eyes and ears, but you will not fool their nose!
Practice drawing and shooting your bow from sitting/kneeling positions similar to what your outfitter will have set up for you, and if possible in some type of similar type space (blind/hide/etc).
If possible, get yourself a bear 3D target to practice on, from various angles, to build confidence and ability with.
Best of luck on your hunt!
 
Anyway, please feel free to share your advice or stories. I'm just looking to supplement my own experiences and research.

Be prepared while hunting bears from a ground blind. While big bears will often run when they catch your scent or when they figure something isn't right, sows with cubs and younger bears tend to get inquisitive.
 
I'll have to watch the videos later. Although my buddies keep making me watch videos of bears running up stands. Like a 200lbs raccoon! I think they are scared. I've got options on the ground...!

Great tips all around.

Regardless of bow gear you are looking to manage a shot into a 6" kill zone very tight to the shoulder, slightly quartering away. I recommend landing your arrows tight to the crease as I call it. Hitting a bear far back like some shots on deer results in a gut shot. So the tighter to the shoulder the better and mid body.

Do you also subscribe to the, "Don't shoot unless the front leg is forward" to further open up the kill zone?

As far as gear goes, do not feel under bowed with the stick. I am sure you are using some form of #40 plus bow with cut on contact broad head, with heavy arrows so penetration and cutting with full pass throughs should be the norm. Keep your shots under 30 yards with the stick bow and you will be golden. Bears are not hard to kill if the shot is placed well.

My go to recurve is 45# at draw. Normally I shoot a 500 carbon with 125gr two blade Magnus Stinger. 30 yards and in is no problem at all. How heavy do you recommend for bear?


Practice drawing and shooting your bow from sitting/kneeling positions similar to what your outfitter will have set up for you, and if possible in some type of similar type space (blind/hide/etc).
If possible, get yourself a bear 3D target to practice on, from various angles, to build confidence and ability with.

Sitting is on the 'To Do' list. I shoot 3D every week and can set it up as I please. Luckily, my club has a wealth of black bear's!
 
Where you already understand anatomy then foreleg forward is always a great option. The main thing is avoid hits rear of the crease at broadside where possible. I hit one about 4" back one time and spent the rest of the day sorting that bear out. Suggest you google bear anatomy and picture where the kill zone is at various angles...IMO the 3 D targets are wrong. And with your set up I would not worry about penetration 30 yards and in. Weights in the 400+ grain perhaps even better 450+ grain will aid you with a lighter draw. My 2c.
 
While not a bear story, this is a good story about hunting traditional equipment that I found very interesting, as told to me second hand by an acquaitance that I have shot quite a bit of 3D with...with recurves.

The old timer hunted moose from a treestand over a lick for over 30 years, and always used his 50# recurve. His longest shot across the lick was 20 yards.
Every year he shot his bull, with a complete pass through, and the moose would run 60 to 100 yards and be done. Only problem was, that run was always away from the trail to his vehicle. Making for a longer pack out for the aging hunter.
One day, he grabbed his 40# recurve by accident and did not notice until he was in the stand.
He shot his moose, and the arrow only penetrated with the broadhead ending up in the vitals. The moose ran about 20 yards before going down. That broadhead had done a real number on the lungs and heart, slicing and dicing as the arrow moved with the movement of the moose.
Since then, over ten years later, the hunter has continued to hunt with his 40# recurve, and has not had to trail a moose more than 40 yards since. Average distance being just over 20 yards. Quicker kills due to more extensive damage to the moose's vitals. Making for a shorter pack out for the hunter.

With a bear, an exit wound is a nice plus, as it will provide for a better blood trail, especially if the shot is not as good as one hoped for. Their loose skins, thick fur, and depending upon season or severity of winter and subsequent layer of fat, tends to make for poor blood trails. Keep in mind, that a hit high in the chest will allow the blood to pool within the chest cavity and not out into the ground, also making for a poorer blood trail. Try for a lower chest shot to prevent this. If the bear has more tissue damage to the lungs, the shorter the trail to the downed animal. (This is the same for all game animals)
 
One day, he grabbed his 40# recurve by accident and did not notice until he was in the stand.
He shot his moose, and the arrow only penetrated with the broadhead ending up in the vitals. The moose ran about 20 yards before going down. That broadhead had done a real number on the lungs and heart, slicing and dicing as the arrow moved with the movement of the moose.
Since then, over ten years later, the hunter has continued to hunt with his 40# recurve...

Unfortunately, that bow is illegal for moose and bear in Ontario.

Longbows:

Draw weight must be at least 48.5lbs at draw length of 27.6 inches or less.
 
Be prepared while hunting bears from a ground blind. While big bears will often run when they catch your scent or when they figure something isn't right, sows with cubs and younger bears tend to get inquisitive.

I've never had a mature bear climb up my tree (thank f@ck), it's always the younger bears who get curious and gutsy. I've had bears climb up my ladder stand, climb the tree itself or stand on their hind legs and bounce their front paws on the tree as if they were trying to make me fall off?! I hunt alone and take two precautions: 1) I always tell someone when I'm going in/out of the stand, and 2) carry a 12in shotty.
 
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