So far as I know, the only things not Colt on the NP29 is the front sight (narrow dovetail) and the grip bushing threads. The grip screws are standard, but the bushing is different.
"Tuned" my really loose NP 29 1911 extractor
- Thread starter HooliganD
- Start date
So far as I know, the only things not Colt on the NP29 is the front sight (narrow dovetail) and the grip bushing threads. The grip screws are standard, but the bushing is different.
Would like to buy Canadian if possible, but have looked on Brownells'
Know of any fiber optic front sights that fit?
The Norc has either a staked on front sight, like a real Colt (narrow tenon), so buy a Colt fibre optic sight:
Or it has a dovetailed front sight. The pistol dovetail is non-standard and narrow. Buy whatever front sight you want and have your gunsmith widen the dovetail:
The sights on the Norc are garbage, I think I'll black out the back and maybe try a bright fluorescent paint on the front post.
So other than tuning the extractor (which I should do more of) and apparently sights, what are some other must do NP29 mods?
So other than tuning the extractor (which I should do more of) and apparently sights, what are some other must do NP29 mods?
I'm quite mechanical, so not much scares me... As for trigger job did you replace yours or just clean up/polish the rough edges? I don't think I'd want to mess around with the sear. I'd polish it, but would be very hesitant to take a file to it for fear of ruining the geometry and compromising safety.
I have a sear jig so I do that also. You can polish up all the mating surfaces and bend the sear spring a bit but don't go too much. The sear and hammer need to be worked on if you really want to reduce the spring tension. You can also put a new trigger in. Get one that has takeup and over travel adjustments. It will help a bit. Reduced tension hammer spring will help also. I use an 18lb now. A complete trigger job and trigger replacement gave me a 4 pound pull. I'm going to out in a 17 lb trigger spring , I.prefer a 3.5 lb trigger pull, my.personal preference.
Corey
If you like the feel of the trigger then you should just leave well enough alone. Plus the more rounds you put through it, the trigger will smooth out by itself. A fresh set of grips, extended slide stop and mag release, maybe a magwell. I did all that to mine and it makes it.almost look like my SigTacops, for a fraction of the cost. Norcs are great guns for the money.
Corey
I do however us a hammer hook squaring file and then finish with a stone. My norc really needed squaring, and the hooks were quite tall. The sear was the big issue, it was short right from the start, I barely had enough material to stone, I was just able to get a clean face, I missed a tiny bit, but its working ok. 500 rounds in, but I'm keeping an I on it.
Corey
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Brownells makes a file for squaring hammer hooks. It has 3 safe sides and one cutting side so it makes it alot easier. It still takes a lite touch and a good feel. If you are not used to filing it may be a struggle.
Corey
Ok, I finished the ejector. Its as I suspected, the ejector was a poor shape. Im going the put a bit of a disclaimer here, the pictures and information is for reference only, this info may very well cause your gun to function worse, I make no guarantee's on this information, proceed at your own risk. There I said it. 
Here is the gun Im working on.
As you can see, the ejector is blunt. That explains why the cases are ejecting forward, they basically are just bouncing of the ejector, not tipping up and out.
Here is the angle I put on to hit the case low. I was careful not to make the ejector any shorter than it already is, I'm not really happy with how short it is, I may have to put in a longer one but we will try it as is. I did leave a "land" on the ejector at the bottom so Its not filed to a sharp point.
A pic looking down on the ejector, notice its still square to the frame of the gun.
And now I put a compound angle on it facing the feed slot. This helps to get the case to roll our better.
Here is the finished angle, now I stopped here because when tuning these ejectors you have to go slow, so now I have to go and test the gun, it looks like it needs more but I'm stopping there I don't want to go too far. It may work where it is I may have to put more of an angle on the side facing the ejector port. Again, this is all experimentation, all my 1911's have benefited from this shape of an ejector, this one may cause the cases to hit me in the face, I won't know till I test it, but all my other guns work great with this profile. Now I just have to stone out all the tool marks and done for now. I'm heading to the range tomorrow so I will see if it worked.
Corey
Here is the gun Im working on.
As you can see, the ejector is blunt. That explains why the cases are ejecting forward, they basically are just bouncing of the ejector, not tipping up and out.
Here is the angle I put on to hit the case low. I was careful not to make the ejector any shorter than it already is, I'm not really happy with how short it is, I may have to put in a longer one but we will try it as is. I did leave a "land" on the ejector at the bottom so Its not filed to a sharp point.
A pic looking down on the ejector, notice its still square to the frame of the gun.
And now I put a compound angle on it facing the feed slot. This helps to get the case to roll our better.
Here is the finished angle, now I stopped here because when tuning these ejectors you have to go slow, so now I have to go and test the gun, it looks like it needs more but I'm stopping there I don't want to go too far. It may work where it is I may have to put more of an angle on the side facing the ejector port. Again, this is all experimentation, all my 1911's have benefited from this shape of an ejector, this one may cause the cases to hit me in the face, I won't know till I test it, but all my other guns work great with this profile. Now I just have to stone out all the tool marks and done for now. I'm heading to the range tomorrow so I will see if it worked.
Corey
