Modern Sporter builds Q&A

Alright, I've made it through the entire first production run, EVERYONE has been contacted for any and all receiver types, slick side, forward assist, doesn't matter.

If you are in the first production run and you have ordered a forward assist upper, check your email. If you don't have an email, now is the time to contact us: info@albertatacticalrifle.com

For those of you in the second and third production runs, we are trying to avoid sending uppers and lowers out separately. By shipping them together, it gives us one last chance to go over them for quality control and make sure everything has a nice tight fit.
If you are in the second production run and you are adamant about getting your upper and lower shipped separately, you can also contact us at info@albertatacticalrifle.com
 
got my new bolt today from brownells. this one opens my dust cover :)

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I’ve got a couple handguards in my bin, which is a better fit with the MS upper:
MRA SLW or Midwest Industries Combat?

Best match to contours, least modifications, etc
 
Not sure if this came up before but there are too many pages to read through. How does one remove the roll pin for the bolt catch? I have a Brownell's flat roll pin punch that I use for AR15's but that doesn't work on the MS.
 
HK41 said:
Not sure if this came up before but there are too many pages to read through. How does one remove the roll pin for the bolt catch? I have a Brownell's flat roll pin punch that I use for AR15's but that doesn't work on the MS.
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Are you trying to completely remove the roll pin or just drive it out enough to change the bolt release?
Going from the rear with the tool you have should move the pin out enough to be able to remove the bolt release, but it will not go far enough to get the pin out.
If it is the pin that needs to be completely removed we use a 1/16th pin punch that we have "modified" for the job. Basically bent the last 1/2 ". We also use a piece of brass shim stock to protect the lower from ugliness.
Needless to say extreme caution when using a pin punch and hammer around a lower is required.
 
alberta tactical rifle said:
Are you trying to completely remove the roll pin or just drive it out enough to change the bolt release?
Going from the rear with the tool you have should move the pin out enough to be able to remove the bolt release, but it will not go far enough to get the pin out.
If it is the pin that needs to be completely removed we use a 1/16th pin punch that we have "modified" for the job. Basically bent the last 1/2 ". We also use a piece of brass shim stock to protect the lower from ugliness.
Needless to say extreme caution when using a pin punch and hammer around a lower is required.
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Even with the flat pin punch the angle seems too large to fit into the roll pin hole. I will pick up a sacrificial punch and bend the end. That was my backup plan if there was no easy method. Just need to get the catch out to see why it's so loose and not engaging the spring. Thanks.
 
HotSoup said:
In your opinion is run #2 on schedule? What is your current estimate?
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Darkwater said:
I'm also curious about the run 2 ETA
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Moving a long as fast as we can. Wrapping up forward assist uppers, and should be starting on lowers in a couple weeks here.

If you want some perspective... modern hunters and varmints were made in batches of about a hundred units. The first run of modern sporters was 223 units, which was HUGE to us... it more than doubled what we usually produced in any given run.... In contrast, the second production run has us building approximately 700 receiver sets...

To say we're swamped, is an under statement.

I've always said the first things to go when we get slammed with work is videos, CGN comms, and facebook updates. Please don't mistake fewer updates for slow downs or anything, infact it's quite the opposite.

The second production run will be shipping out over August/September/October. It's a huge run, it'll be many many many batches going out for anodizing and then shipping as they come back.
 
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imark93 said:
Can someone explain everything I would need to build one of these modern sporters?

Thanks!
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Look up any 'build an AR 15' parts lists.

As for tools: AR-15 armourers wrench, a reaction rod, a vise, aeroshell 64 grease a QUALITY punch set and a hammer.
 
HotSoup said:
Look up any 'build an AR 15' parts lists.

As for tools: AR-15 armourers wrench, a reaction rod, a vise, aeroshell 64 grease a QUALITY punch set and a hammer.
Click to expand...

Thank you!
Also, any parts that make it easier to build? I've read the strike ind upper poly port cover, enhanced forward take down pin, kns or B. A. D. OR V7 ok?
Anything else?

Oh ya,
Elftmann push button safety ok? I read minor fitting from the very first page of this cause of the ball bearing?
 
Is the general consensus that Geissele SD-E or SSA-E or the Timney CE are the way to go? I've seen a few posts in this thread that the TT adaptable requires modification to the trigger or the receiver in order to fit.

This is my first build, so I'd like to avoid modifications if at all possible. The standard process is daunting enough!
 
I’m also doing my first build and I’m on a bit of a budget and I’m wondering if a BCM LPK will work good in this I’m assuming it will but you just never know
 
Has anyone here replaced the rear take down pin with an actual removable pin? Ive been noticing some wiggle lately. I put some electrical tape on the rear lug that interfaces with the pin and it helps a lot but im looking for somethjng more permanent
 
J.L.C. said:
Is the general consensus that Geissele SD-E or SSA-E or the Timney CE are the way to go? I've seen a few posts in this thread that the TT adaptable requires modification to the trigger or the receiver in order to fit.

This is my first build, so I'd like to avoid modifications if at all possible. The standard process is daunting enough!
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I'm going to use TT Adjustable trigger too, let Shaun know you plan on using it and he will mod the lower for it before it ships out to you
 
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