Screwdrivers for guns... what to use?

I have the full brownells set of magna tip bits. So far they work well. I did manage to break one on a thread locked bipod mount screw and the sent me a free replacement.
 
JohnnyPython said:
Grace makes gunsmithing screwdrivers. I’ve heard mixed reviews like the tips break.

I haven’t purchased any yet but maybe someone else has some input.
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I have a set which my wife got me for Christmas one year. Has an array of brass punches, a brass hammer, and assorted screwdrivers.

While I really like the set, but it fails when coming to problematic screws and pins. The tips do break, but on the plus side they seem to break cleanly (on the two which did) so you can generally keep using them. Albeit, not necessarily on the same size screw originally. The punches also mushroom if you need to give it a good wack.
 
ssapach said:
Funny, my Wheeler bits have been bending, but I haven't broke one yet.

Mostly the smaller, thinner bits that are bending.

As far as replacements, maybe check out Chapman Manufacturing. They list individual bits for sale on their site. They are not Wheeler bits, but if I'm not mistaken, they are the same driver size.

h ttps://chapmanmfg.com/collections/individual-parts
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Same for me. When the wheeler bits fail, they twist.
 
I personally don't prefer replacement bits. I haven't found any yet that fit tightly enough in their holders. They all seem to have some slop. This makes for SLIPS and GOUGES and if the blades or configuration of the tips isn't just right, it makes for galled and burred screw slots etc.

I will admit, I do use interchangeable bits, but never for slotted screw heads, unless there is nothing else available. I carry a Chapman set with me to gunshows as a "just in case" kit, but avoid using them.

I'm anal about properly fitting screwdrivers. At last count I had just over 4 dozen that are all of good quality, mostly Snap On and Craftsman Flat Blade types, carefully ground for square edges.

One of my pet peeves, is that factory screwdrivers do not have square opposing edges. Gunsmith kit style are the exception. They do cover a wide range of configurations though.

On commercial rifles, I try to swap out the slotted screws with either hex head, allen types or torx heads.

I know most folks don't have the space or equipment to maintain a large quantity of single point screwdrivers. If I were in that position, I would settle for the "gunsmith screwdriver" kits being offered. They're actually very good value and some are better than others.

Galled screw decrease the value of a firearm by way more than the value of the screws. Take care of them and take care to make sure the proper fitting screwdriver is used on them. Over torquing isn't necessary
 
Teac said:
So it has always bothered me that 99% of all slotted screws on my guns have slots either too thin or too thick to fit normal slotted drivers and screws get mangled up pretty good when using the wrong driver.

Are there any good ways out of this? Make custom drivers? Are there gun screwdrivers?

Teac
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I use these https://chapmanmfg.com/pages/gunsmith-screwdriver-sets and they have been manufacturing gunsmith style hollow ground screwdriver sets since 1936 and supply them to Navy SEALS and Snipers as well as hobbyist and professional gunsmiths, not a bad deal from a group of women who run this business.
Besides you can get a set for your loving and caring seamstress and use them for double duty if you are sneaky enough.
And if guys are breaking and twisting them till they break, well they break for a reason they are being abused...but sometimes things are not as easy as it seems.
Especially considering I like to fix things till they break.
So, I buy extra when I fix things in-case it happens again.
Rob
 
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JohnnyPython said:
Grace makes gunsmithing screwdrivers. I’ve heard mixed reviews like the tips break.

I haven’t purchased any yet but maybe someone else has some input.
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I've got the Grace set . Nice screwdrivers . I broke the tip off one while removing a particularly tough screw . Called Grace and was transferred to a cheerful customer service representative who just said "no problem ,we'll mail you out a new one " . I had my new replacement in less than a week .
 
I have the brownells master set and it works well enough for me, bought Wiha bits for whatever else I needed like torx.

One piece screwdrivers are better but I have no intentions of collecting 70 screwdrivers for my mediocre gun plumbing skills.
 
Bench grinder, propane torch, and some 1/4 inch hex or round stock.

Either forge or just grind the bit to the size you need. Harden. Temper. More or less as experience shows the need.

Crappy, beat to hell old screwdrivers can be recycled in to nice working tools again.

If you want to get flash, you can make yourself some decent looking turn-screws to get some practice in a couple aspects, as well as to show off a bit.
 
Screwdriver kits, no matter how well made, often don't fit the slot or other configurations made for torquing screws snugly into their seat or removing them from their seat.

There is a very good reason why replacement screw sets are being made for everything from old milsurps to modern commercial firearms.

That reason is SLOPPY SCREWDRIVERS THAT DON'T FIT. Then factor in a ham fisted bubba and it's time for some very expensive screws to be replaced.
 
bearhunter said:
I personally don't prefer replacement bits. I haven't found any yet that fit tightly enough in their holders. They all seem to have some slop. This makes for SLIPS and GOUGES and if the blades or configuration of the tips isn't just right, it makes for galled and burred screw slots etc.

I will admit, I do use interchangeable bits, but never for slotted screw heads, unless there is nothing else available. I carry a Chapman set with me to gunshows as a "just in case" kit, but avoid using them.

I'm anal about properly fitting screwdrivers. At last count I had just over 4 dozen that are all of good quality, mostly Snap On and Craftsman Flat Blade types, carefully ground for square edges.

One of my pet peeves, is that factory screwdrivers do not have square opposing edges. Gunsmith kit style are the exception. They do cover a wide range of configurations though.

On commercial rifles, I try to swap out the slotted screws with either hex head, allen types or torx heads.

I know most folks don't have the space or equipment to maintain a large quantity of single point screwdrivers. If I were in that position, I would settle for the "gunsmith screwdriver" kits being offered. They're actually very good value and some are better than others.

Galled screw decrease the value of a firearm by way more than the value of the screws. Take care of them and take care to make sure the proper fitting screwdriver is used on them. Over torquing isn't necessary
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+1 for hating interchangeable bits ....

I wish Grace sold their drivers as blanks so they could be ground ... they sell replacement handles for some reason, why not the shanks??

Also a mini impact driver ... there has been the odd screw that really needed it. ;)
 
Although I have owned a Chapman set for decades, and it has served well, I really don't like interchangeable bits. They just don't have that positive feel one piece screwdrivers have. With a drawer full of potential donors, I regrind as needed. Reground torx screwdrivers seem to stand up the best, although size availability can be somewhat limiting. The ability to grind one's own screwdrivers is a skill well worth learning.
 
I fully understand why so many firearms enthusiasts use the screwdriver kits.

For the most part, they don't have grinders or or other tools needed to shape or manufacture slot type screwdrivers.

If their firearms mostly use Torx/Hex type screw heads, then most of the kits being offered will not only work fine but take up a lot less space.

I run into a lot of buggered up screw heads on firearms and other things all of the time. Slot types are often galled to the point where the heads have to be drilled/machined off so that the screws can be removed with other tools. I especially run into this at gun shows with carry ins. Bubba and his butterknife or screwdriver that has been used as a pry bar, chisel, etc get snively when you tell them their JEWEL needs at least $50 worth of screw replacements to be salable.
 
I use hollow ground electricians screwdrivers, have a few different sets that I mix and match for the right fit. When not slipping is absolutely critical, I dip the tip in a little bit of lapping compound for extra bite. A fantastic trick a mechanic showed me.
 
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