Ross Long Range Target Rifle Project - Pic Heavy

Sharps45-70

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This is a project that has been in the back of my mind for a few years now, and I decided it was about time I started making some moves to make it happen. I wanted to create this thread to get ongoing feedback, ideas, and any help I need along the way (thanks everyone in advance!). Additionally, I figured it was good to capture a project like this on an uncommon platform incase someone wanted to do something similar in the future.

The Project:
My interest in Ross rifles started when I impulse bought a Ross MkII** civilian target rifle. It is a phenomenal shooter, and soon I found a deep interest in the history and variants of Ross rifles, particularly target models (if you have a MkII** target and want to sell, let me know ;) ). Ross also made a series of more custom rifles known as Match Targets. These were single shot, half-stocked rifles in the .280 Ross cartridge with specialized match ammunition and projectiles. Designed to fire in the 'supine' position, lying on one's back, these had staff vernier sights mounted on the heel of the stock. All of these rifles achieved exceptional feats of accuracy in their day, winning countless matches around the world, most notably repeatedly at Bisley.

Since I could never afford a true Match Target and don't particularly like shooting while lying on my back, I wanted to make a somewhat period correct half-stocked match rifle in a more commonly used cartridge than .280 Ross.

I am currently in talks to acquire a base rifle for the project, I will be using a Ross commercial sporting rifle, not a military model. I want to use something on the 1910 action because of the conventional barrel threads over the models with the 3 tpi quick change barrel, and the 1910 style commercial sporters have a bridge over the rear of the action that can be used to mount sights. I have narrowed it down to either an E-10 or an M-10, leaning towards the M-10 since it has the flush magazine. I will be keeping almost everything on the rifle, just swapping out the barrel and adding a period-correct target sight. Because of this, I am only looking at rifles with shot-out bores.

Calibers:
I have been debating calibers (as we all do with any project). I will be shooting out past 1000 meters, but most shooting will be done between 500 and 800. I want to go rimless, so the bolt will have to be bushed for the smaller rim diameter. The ross M-10 action is more than capable of handling up to a 7mm Rem Mag. That cartridge is very close to the ballistics of the original .280 match load, so if I wanted a very close replica, this is the way I would go. However, I have no interest in shooting 7mm Rem Mag from prone without a brake, so this is out. I would prefer a period cartridge, though I would also use a modern cartridge if it came down to it. Some choices I am considering:

1905-1915 Period: 6.5x55, 7x57, 30-06 Edit: now also 6.5-303
More modern: 270, 7mm/08, 308

Barrels:
The MkII** full stocked civilian target features a 30.5" barrel with a medium military profile and a flat muzzle. The .280 Ross match rifles featured a 30.5" barrel. I have not decided on a barrel profile yet, but I will be firing this off-hand, and unsupported prone (with sling) so it can't be a 15 lb gun at the end, but I won't be carting it through the woods. I would like the barrel to be 27"-30.5" which is correct to the period rifles. Whatever caliber I choose, I will be getting it with a faster twist so I can shoot heavier projectiles.


Undecided things I could use input on:
The gunsmith to do the work - I need bluing done, threading (Shank is 1.125" diameter, 0.732" long, 12 square threads per inch. There is a counterbore, plus an extractor cut on the breech face), a dovetail cut, and rear sight mounting (possibly a mount made).

The manufacturer for the barrel, the barrel profile, muzzle type (flat, 11 degree, etc.), any special throating (have to figure out max OAL).

Last, of course the caliber.

Additionally, I need help to find a period target sight. Some models I have been exhaustingly searching for: M.E. Sutherland (various), Canada Tool & Specialty Co. (various), Peddie Parker, BSA Martin, Pilblad, Lyman 48 150pt (longslide) with the flat base mount, Lyman 50, Parker 9G.

If you've made it this far, thank you! I look forward to this project and will provide pictures as much as I can as I go along.
 
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Some random thoughts...
A M-10 (.280) stock is profiled for a rather light sporting barrel. There are M-10 rifles out there with poor bores, cut barrels, extra holes, etc. What you want is a M-10 trigger guard and magazine assembly. A service Mk.III receiver would work just fine. A messed up MK.II** might be an option, depending on the cartridge you choose.
A Mk.III rear sight bridge can be flattened and used as a sight base. Or used to mount the Ross sight of your choice. Sell the service sight.
"R" versions of classic cartridges should work with a .303 bolt. 6.5x57R, 7x57R, 7x65R etc.
From the Enfield rifled musket through the MLE and on to the Ross, the rear sight bases accept all the sight leaves of the period. That is why there are MLEs with Ross rear sights. A Mk.II sight like a Sutherland or Pilblad, etc. could be used. A BSA Martin would work.
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A barrel with the Light Palma contour would work. These are available with the length. Shank diameter is one thing, shoulder diameter is also a consideration.
 

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Some random thoughts...
A M-10 (.280) stock is profiled for a rather light sporting barrel. There are M-10 rifles out there with poor bores, cut barrels, extra holes, etc. What you want is a M-10 trigger guard and magazine assembly. A service Mk.III receiver would work just fine. A messed up MK.II** might be an option, depending on the cartridge you choose.
A Mk.III rear sight bridge can be flattened and used as a sight base. Or used to mount the Ross sight of your choice. Sell the service sight.
"R" versions of classic cartridges should work with a .303 bolt. 6.5x57R, 7x57R, 7x65R etc.
From the Enfield rifled musket through the MLE and on to the Ross, the rear sight bases accept all the sight leaves of the period. That is why there are MLEs with Ross rear sights. A Mk.II sight like a Sutherland or Pilblad, etc. could be used. A BSA Martin would work.
A barrel with the Light Palma contour would work. These are available with the length. Shank diameter is one thing, shoulder diameter is also a consideration.

Thanks for the thoughts, helpful as always tiriaq! All M-10's I am currently looking at either have a mixture of extra holes, shot-out bores, and cut barrels. I will be mounting the sight to the rear bridge. I also want to stay away from the more uncommon rimmed cartridges.
 
Just thinking - this is a very interesting project. Bubba'd Rosses are available to provide the basic action, and long contoured match grade barrel blanks can be had. A M-10 stock could be used as a pattern for a semi-finished stock.
The result would be a simulation of a classic Canadian target rifle, and a great shooter.
Not to derail, but in this same period, long range match rifles were also made up using M1893 Mannlicher actions.
 
Nice project. Keep us posted here. If you want to go rimless for a long range cartridge and want to stay period, you can't go wrong with 6.5X55 Swedish. 6.5mm match bullets are plentiful and the cartridge is easily capable up to 1000y.
 
Problem with a rimless cartridge is that existing bolts are intended for .303 or .280. A smaller rimless case isn't a good fit. Then again, if the rifle is single shot, the extractor could probably be tweeked to pull the case out of the chamber. Even if it didn't eject, having to remove it manually wouldn't be an issue.
 
Problem with a rimless cartridge is that existing bolts are intended for .303 or .280. A smaller rimless case isn't a good fit. Then again, if the rifle is single shot, the extractor could probably be tweeked to pull the case out of the chamber. Even if it didn't eject, having to remove it manually wouldn't be an issue.

This was a concern I had as well. Oldguncrank kindly provided me with an example of a Sedgley Ross converted to 30-06. The bolt face has had a spacer silver soldered in the rim.
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interesting project/ I have something similar built. my gun is decades old and when I built it cartridge consideration was a tough one to. what I finally decided on , something that required no bolt work, and easy to load was 6.5x303 not an epps. simply neck down the 303 to 6.5 I still have the reamer that I had made. im very very happy with this caliber and have made several #4 rifles in this caliber. simple to load I use a 6.5x55 sizeing die to neck size loading data I started with the sweed data as case capacity is about the same. I cant remember all my data now id have to look in the book but with 140s I surpassed velocity of the sweed by quiet a bit
 
In addition to the spacer added to the bolt face, it looks as if the extractor has been welded and reshaped.
Silver solder requires red heat, and the locking lugs are right there.
A 6.5 based on the .303 is a great idea. No action modifications, and the 6.5 cartridges work so well for long range. I am very pleased with my .260, although I've not shot it past 1000m. Works great that far.
 
In addition to the spacer added to the bolt face, it looks as if the extractor has been welded and reshaped.
Silver solder requires red heat, and the locking lugs are right there.
A 6.5 based on the .303 is a great idea. No action modifications, and the 6.5 cartridges work so well for long range. I am very pleased with my .260, although I've not shot it past 1000m. Works great that far.

I agree, that was another concern of mine.

Regarding 6.5-303, if anyone has any info regarding this caliber PM me! This seems like a good option for the conversion based on my googling.
 
TR
You are correct on the extractor. One has to reach in farther to get the 30-06 rim. Also a "clam's foot" to reach down and scoop up the smaller casing. Done by Sedgley, and it was a guess of mine on the method, but it has put many rounds downrange, and I presume it was thought through. maybe cooling rags or partial submerging?
Thanks for your (extensive) knowledge and efforts to help out "young guns".
OGC
 
Project update

The donor rifles have arrived, all thanks to Oldguncrank! These are two M-10's in 280 Ross. Both have their issues, but between the two, there is a complete rifle for the project.

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Some details on the two
The top rifle: 24" barrel (cut down) with aftermarket front sight ramp, dark bore, missing floor plate and follower, receiver ring dovetailed for scope mount, duplicated stock (unfinished) with ugly recoil pad, etc.
Bottom rifle: 26" barrel, worn out bore, original stock but shortened butt without butt plate, numerous repairs and cracks, etc.

Between the two of these I have almost all the parts I need for this build. I will be using the receiver from the bottom rifle since it doesn't have a dovetail cut in the receiver ring. All of the other miscellaneous pieces will be determined simply from which is in better shape for the build.

Steps going forward
I have made the decision to chamber the rifle in 6.5/303 Brit. This is not the Epps improved cartridge, as it will instead use a standard 6.5x55 Swedish die to form the neck and shoulder. I will be able to duplicate the ballistics I wanted from 6.5x55 with this, and I won't have to modify the bolt face to fit the smaller case head of the Swede (and I have TONS of 303 brass). I think it works well for this, since it could be viewed as a possible "experimental target cartridge" that Ross could have done in the day. Thank you to Beater for lending me your reamer! :D

Currently the non-original stock is off at a stock maker who has a duplicator. We selected a decently nice blank to work with. I want the overall profile and dimensions to be the same since the stocks fit me well, even in prone, and I love the side profile. One change I will be making is increasing the width of the forend so I can accommodate the heavier profile barrel I will be fitting to the rifle. I sent him the reproduced stock since he will be using bondo to build up the forend and will basically ruin the stock. I decided to store the original one for safe keeping. :) In three weeks time or so, I should have a stock ready for final fitting, sanding, and finishing.

I spent a lot of time calling different barrel makers in Canada (I wanted Canadian made) and smiths to see what work I could have done. On Monday or Tuesday next week I will be bringing the necessary parts to K.S. Arms Ltd. here in Edmonton who will be doing the barrel and smithing work. They have come highly recommended to me for not only the quality of barrels, but the overall quality of the smithing work. Their prices are very reasonable, and they are local so I don't have to mail anything and incur the postage costs. The biggest bonus of going through them is they have chrome moly blanks! I wanted to get the barrel blued to stay with the period-correct nature of the build, so this was the cherry on top! I even considered getting a stainless barrel cerakoted in a pseudo-blue finish, but this works better for me since this part is largely personal preference. As of now, I haven't finalized what length and profile I want, so when I go there I will chat with them about some different profiles. They said 6-8 weeks for all the work needed. Lots of time to get the stock done!

What I do know about the barrel: 28" or 30" long, light palma or similar profile, 1-7.5" twist (140+ grain projectiles mostly), flat crown, forward dovetail for globe sight, high polish blued finish.

What is still needed
I have a line on a few sights available, but still looking for others (the more the merrier).
Possibly a MkIII rear bridge. I had originally planned to make a dovetailed mount to fit the M-10 dovetailed rear bridge, but the MkIII would be easier since I could just directly mount the sight. Undecided on that one still, will do some thinking.

I'll keep you all updated!
 
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A possible rear sight option that would leave options open for a period correct sight...
There is an adapter base for the Central type sight that clamps to a standard Weaver base. Take a Mk. III bridge, flatten the top, two holes for a flat bottomed Weaver base, and the Central adapter clamps to that.
 
A possible rear sight option that would leave options open for a period correct sight...
There is an adapter base for the Central type sight that clamps to a standard Weaver base. Take a Mk. III bridge, flatten the top, two holes for a flat bottomed Weaver base, and the Central adapter clamps to that.

Great suggestion! I'll look into that.
 
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