7.62x54R surplus accuracy?

rhino519

CGN frequent flyer
Rating - 100%
13   0   0
hey gang, has anyone done any sort of accuracy testing for different makers of surplus ammo in 7.62x54R?
the report done by Ganderite on 7.62x39 was most informative and greatly helped me with my selection and expectations when it came to that caliber, so i am hoping that some enterprising soul has done the same to the daddy of the mentioned cartridge
 
The vast majority of 762x54 we get today is/was designed and made for belt fed support weapons, except for the specialized sniper stuff that you rarely ever see. I'm pretty sure that the consistency round to round will be all over the place, never mind lot to lot, or maker to maker.
 
hey gang, has anyone done any sort of accuracy testing for different makers of surplus ammo in 7.62x54R?
the report done by Ganderite on 7.62x39 was most informative and greatly helped me with my selection and expectations when it came to that caliber, so i am hoping that some enterprising soul has done the same to the daddy of the mentioned cartridge

I mostly have been using Chinese surplus 7.62x54R for plinking. Unfortunately, my eyes are not what they used to be 50 years ago so I mounted a Hauska Long Eye relief scout scope on a laminate 1943 Mosin Izhevsk (excellent bore). Shooting with Chinese 71/73 (factory#/year production) I managed 2.2 to 3.5" groupings for 3 or 5 shots strings. Not much difference between 3 or 5 shots in a string. Also, not much difference between various Chinese surplus (factory#/year of production). Like mentioned above, 7.62x54R surplus was produced for heavy machine guns.
Without a scope I was getting 4-8" groupings with any Chinese surplus.
Using commercial Sellier&Bellot 180gr SP bullet hunting ammo I was getting from 1.3 to 2" groupings. My reloads with commercial 180gr SP (0.303") hunting bullets and 35gr Varget resulted in 1.56-1.69", for 3 shots strings.
That gives you some idea what you can achieve with a Mosin and with surplus, commercial hunting and reload ammo.

This is my Mosin rig:
JplpU6w.jpg
 
thank you, much appreciated info
05RAV are the .303 you referring to the .311 for .303BR? or is that a different gauge?

Yes. These are the bullets: CAM PRO 303 British 180Gr JSP (Box of 500)($195) (see pic). The measured diameter is 0.3105". Their quality is excellent. They have a cannelure which is quite helpful for hand loading (at least for me). I don't use any press just a "Rifle Lee Loader" set for 7.62x54R caliber. It's very easy to use. I can load 100 cartridges per day by hand without any problem.
I buy bullets (usually a batch of 500) from Select Shooting Supplies which is only 15 min drive from my home. At the moment they are sold out but SSS replenish the stock every couple month (may be longer nowadays when there are shortages everywhere).
I've also tried 150gr bullets 0.311" but for some reasons they do not shoot so well from my Mosin as the 180gr bullets.

0.303 180gr British bullets and 7.62x54R hand loaded cartridges:
DhsOzVR.jpg
 
There are a few things that you can do to make the surplus ammo somewhat more consistent.

The first and easiest is requires a loading press and a seating die or something that will accomplish this task.

When you have the seating die in your press, a surplus cartridge in the shell head holder and the ram all the way up, screw the stem down until it just touches the bullet, then turn it in one full turn.

At this setting, run all of your cartridges through, seating the bullet about .025in deeper into the neck.

I started doing this about 35 years ago, when an avid shooter/reloader proved to me that this actually made a big difference in accuracy, especially in a rifle that was actually capable of good accuracy.

I didn't really twig onto what I was doing, until there was a thread here, again with Ganderites's involvement, about the metal of the bullet jacket and the metal of the case neck actually "welding" together, after years of contact under pressure (tension).

By seating the bullets deeper, the weld was being broken and neck tensions became more consistent.

The second method is a lot more work but is even more effective than the first.

Pull all of the bullets, dump out the powder, weighing about 20 charges and calculating and average weight for powder. Then dump all of the powder, from all of the cartridges into a container.

Check clearances in the rifle for maximum seating depth, then proceed to weigh out the charges, as per calculations, and seat the bullets to those depths.

There should be a caution here. Depending on the ammo, the necks might have to be resized. If the ammo has a tar like sealer between the bullet and neck, you can likely get away without resizing.
 
I find the Chinese stuff to be the most accurate. With a TULA (MOLOT PU) I get sub 2" groups at 100yds consistently frequently 3 of the 5 less than 1".
 
For me with corrosive surplus in the cans it's been factory 71 Chinese with the brown goo on the can is the most accurate by a long shot, followed closely by Bulgarian silver tip, then Czech, Chinese factory 61 with flaking green paint, and the 2011 made 180gr Chinese machine gun stuff last.

This is the Mosin I used for testing.

https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...ists-need-not-open-this-thread!!!-(pic-heavy)
 
Yesterday, I took one of my sniper 91/30's out - 1943 rifle, 1942 scope. Surplus Russian ammo (the light blue box, silver tip bullet). My son, my buddy and I had absolutely no trouble hitting a 12x12 gong at 300 yards. Let's just say that we all were rather impressed and happily surprised by such decent performance!!!

Lou
 
Yesterday, I took one of my sniper 91/30's out - 1943 rifle, 1942 scope. Surplus Russian ammo (the light blue box, silver tip bullet). My son, my buddy and I had absolutely no trouble hitting a 12x12 gong at 300 yards. Let's just say that we all were rather impressed and happily surprised by such decent performance!!!

Lou

The rifles must have pretty decent bores to shoot that well. Have you done any other tuning, such as shimming the receiver???
 
The rifles must have pretty decent bores to shoot that well. Have you done any other tuning, such as shimming the receiver???

Nothing done to it, but it's an actual real one, not a "repro"; scope number matches that on the side of the receiver. Very nice bore... so although I am not surprised it shoots well, I am surprised to what degree it shoots well!
 
Handloading really brings out the best. I have a M27 Finn that performs very well with .308 bullets. Funny, a guy really worked to sell it to me for $60. I thought it was a real "Ugly Betty" until I shot it.;)
 
Nothing done to it, but it's an actual real one, not a "repro"; scope number matches that on the side of the receiver. Very nice bore... so although I am not surprised it shoots well, I am surprised to what degree it shoots well!

I have a similar rifle to the one you have. The matching scope was replaced somewhere along the line before I got it. The replacement scope has been refurbed but is original from the same period. The stock on my rifle and the scope bracket are beat to hell, looking like they've been there, done that. The refurb PU scope looks odd. The barrel has the same number stamped on the left side as is on the scope bracket. The bore on my rifle shows no wear and is bright and shiny.

Like your rifle, this one shoots most surplus ammo very well. Can't say the same for the MOLOT clone. The PE scoped rifle is original but FTRed it also shoots most surplus well.

My other Mosins I have, Russian 91s, 91/30s, couple of Finns and a Hungarian marked rifle are fussy. The M91 Finn and the M29 Finn aren't fussy about what they shoot but they still aren't as accurate as the two original snipers.

Like you, I haven't made any changes to them.

All of them shoot much better with the two methods I mentioned. I seldom go through the time and effort to follow the second method.

I had one M91 that was converted in Europe to a hunting rifle a long time ago. It had folding rear sight leaves, marked out to 400. Not sure if was Arshins or meters. The date on the barrel was 1910. There was a Czarist crest on the top flat of the receiver. This rifle was fussy. It also had a 1-12.5 twist rate and wouldn't shoot anything over 154 grain bullets with a flat base well.

Lovely rifle, tasteful engraving on the receiver and first third of the barrel, to the rear sight. Very fine checkering on a well figured Walnut stock, with what appeared to be a bone or ivory fore end tip and butt plate. There were four holes drilled on the underside of the butt with a hinged brass cover, to hold four cartridges.

The comb on the stock was a bit higher than on military rifles. No raised cheek plate. The trigger guard and Magwell were also tastefully engraved, only along the bottom edges on each side.

It was chambered for the 7.62x54r.

I needed a new 200amp service panel/mast and 6/0AWG wire, along with a bunch of breakers and several spools of NMD14/2, 14/3, NMD 10/3.

I sold that lovely rifle, with it's original hinged, leather, fitted case, dies and cleaning accessories, built specifically for the rifle, to a gentleman by the name of Mickey Moody, from Kelowna, for more than enough to pay for the electrical supplies I needed. Mickey was a real gentleman, rest his soul. Well respected on the Gun Show circuits and a knowledgeable gunsmith in his own right.

I miss Mickey and was pleased to see that he kept that rifle for close to 20 years, before it went for sale from his estate. I should have bought it back, but my eyes were changing and not up to those express style rear sight leaves with the very shallow V filed into them.
 
I have never tried for accuracy, but with mine and my old eyes, I can hit an 8 1/2 x 11 sheet of paper at 100 yards. Even with a slip on recoil pad, I find the recoil a bit punishing on my arthritic shoulder. LOL

Great working rifle, and the surplus ammo does go bang.
 
Back
Top Bottom