Zastava M70

I finally got mine a couple days ago. Overall I'm pretty impressed, especially with the bluing!

I took the stock off to stain it darker (mine was pretty light colored) and found this
Since mine is in .458 Win Mag, I'm a little nervous. Should I be concerned or am I overreacting? It's a bummer because I haven't even shot it yet :(
SfEQMp9.jpg

I'm not sure where to go from here? Does it look like it could be repaired and hold up to the recoil?? or should I start looking for another stock?
 
It can be repaired but why should one repair his new rifle buying it as a new rifle, not as a new rifle with a broken stock? Ask for replacement.

I say it again, buying these kind of guns is a lottery. You get a good one (rare) keep it, get rid off the others if you don't have the means to straighten out the (well reported) issues with them. I still own two Zastavas.
 
Novega did you shoot it without bedding?

User potashminer identified this issue with zastavas in another thread.
 
Maybe and that is a maybe if they fired a proof shot it had happened then.

Who knows? It's broken and that is a fact!
 
Another thing is that the M98 action in its original form works best for what is was designed for and that is for using ..x57mm rimless cartridges.

That is where it excels in usability and reliability. There will be downfalls for other used calibres as you can see!
 
novega said:
I finally got mine a couple days ago. Overall I'm pretty impressed, especially with the bluing!

I took the stock off to stain it darker (mine was pretty light colored) and found this
Since mine is in .458 Win Mag, I'm a little nervous. Should I be concerned or am I overreacting? It's a bummer because I haven't even shot it yet :(
SfEQMp9.jpg

I'm not sure where to go from here? Does it look like it could be repaired and hold up to the recoil?? or should I start looking for another stock?
Click to expand...

maybe time for a laminated stock. never seen a cracked stock before being shot ... very strange.
 
They should have been proof shot.

So yeah, this is not uncommon at all. Dried out timber receiving cracks while it has been shrinking and the action screws haven't been tightend down before proofing.

Beginners mistake? Certainly not. It is not mentioned in the manual coming with the rifle. Unless we missed something?
 
And a last one before I retire ... I believe they will not touch the action screws before selling the rifles. They are a very VERY poor quality allen head screw imo, but arrive looking nice with the preserved bluing on them - untouched.

Put proper a bit to it and all the glory will be gone in no time. These seem to be the cheapest action screws I've ever experienced on a gun, period.
 
I think it's good practice to bed these things before shooting. For a quality rifle for under $700, I can live with this responsibility. Action screws can be replaced. OP, that crack can be repaired. If you like the gun, send it to a good smith to get her back into service.
 
novega said:
I finally got mine a couple days ago. Overall I'm pretty impressed, especially with the bluing!

I took the stock off to stain it darker (mine was pretty light colored) and found this
Since mine is in .458 Win Mag, I'm a little nervous. Should I be concerned or am I overreacting? It's a bummer because I haven't even shot it yet :(

I'm not sure where to go from here? Does it look like it could be repaired and hold up to the recoil?? or should I start looking for another stock?
Click to expand...

I bought a new Zastava M70 in 458 Win Mag in 2013 - within a few months in my gun cabinet, this one did the same thing as shown in your picture - the rifle had never been fired by me. I attributed it to the very large mortice cut for that Zastava trigger, and considerable space available for the magazine box - leaves not much for a bulkhead between, and all "end grain", so it cracked the same way. I ended up making moulds from wood blocks and piece of nylon - was able to pour in quite a bit of epoxy and about doubled the thickness of the bulkhead. I also chose to install a horizontal swing safety, and removed that Zastava trigger, and replaced with a military two stage trigger - again, created lots of "space" for more epoxy. Since the Zastava stock does not have a reinforce bolt between the magazine and the trigger, I laid in a flat "U" shaped steel strap in the epoxy - to create that cross bolt effect like Weatherby does, although probably not really needed with the amount of epoxy that was put in there.
 
The Kurgan said:
I think it's good practice to bed these things before shooting. For a quality rifle for under $700, I can live with this responsibility. Action screws can be replaced. OP, that crack can be repaired. If you like the gun, send it to a good smith to get her back into service.
Click to expand...

How is it a quality rifle? It has a broken stock! End of story.

It is, imo, a quality action design that has been machined/assembled to be a mediocre rifle at best and it's price shows it.

Why should the OP pay for a repair on a new purchase that is fooked out of the box? lol?..
 
riversrest said:
How is it a quality rifle? It has a broken stock! End of story.

It is, imo, a quality action design that has been machined/assembled to be a mediocre rifle at best and it's price shows it.

Why should the OP pay for a repair on a new purchase that is fooked out of the box? lol?..
Click to expand...

I dissagree, while the stocks do leave a lot to be desired, the barreled actions are way better than about anything built in North America currently, and pretty much on par with the likes of some of the $1000 + European rifles.

Eager to shoot mine, the first thing I did was set up the trigger and safety (a bit complex, but easy enough to do following the manual instructions). The Stock looked very dry, so 4 light coats of Minwax Tonge oil took care of that. The Weaver mounts fit perfectly, and no issues zeroing the scope on the first trip out. If it warms up a bit by this afternoon, it is going out for ground-hogs today!!

My stock is going to be reworked, it has more wood on it than it needs and in a lot of places sits higher than the metal. I plan on getting a checkering tool and cutting what appears to be the pressed in checkering. The wood has amazing figuring; certainly not a plain piece of wood; but could be brought up a lot with a proper finish. While already amazingly accurate, I will be doing a complete bedding, likely with pillars, and industrial grade fastners.
 
It's a $700 rifle that needs $200 of a gunsmith's time to finish: bedding and tuning. The OP can apply some quality gun oil to the stock (Schaftol, tung or linseed). The barreled-action is above average compared to what's on the market, certainly not mediocre. The problem is that we take a gamble and hope things are perfect out-of-the-box, and they rarely are. Once these things are broken-in and properly bedded, they are excellent field-grade rifles that will last generations. Think you'll get that from some of the modern junk in a comparable price range? If you don't want the hassle of tweaking a new rifle, for $1100-1300 (or much less if you shop around some of the less-talked about site sponsors!) just buy a new CZ 557 and you will have near-perfect out-of-the box.
 
I took it out to visit some local gunsmiths to get opinions on the repair on the cracked stock and opinions on shortening the length of pull.

3 of 4 gunsmiths said it wasn't that big of a deal and the crack could just be glued. If I was really concerned, bedding would help ensure that the action/stock are better mated, the area near the crack shouldn't be taking recoil anyhow, and the inletting could be improved to give that area a bit more room. So in other words, all the things we've previously talked about in this thread. No surprises there!

The crack is likely as a result of the wood drying unevenly, humidity changes, or weak grain (it's all end grain there). Many of them pointed out that wood stocks from many manufacturers contain cracks and blemishes but they're usually repaired or filled during QC.

What did surprise me was that they all assumed that I had paid much, much more for this rifle. And all were very impressed with the "bang for the buck".

I agree with what Riversrest said, the crack is there and that's a fact. It's a real kick in the nuts that I have to deal with this, on a new gun. At the same time, it is what it is...
 
novega - so might be a bit more than about "taking recoil". If you look how a Mauser (or similar) is laid out - the recoil lug on the underside front of receiver is supposed to be the one and only place that transfers recoil pulse from action to the stock. Look at early 1900's German sporter rifles - built on 98 or earlier mausers - was known back then that the recoil pulse from front of magazine mortice, has to split - to pass along the sides of the magazine, enroute to the butt plate. Why those very slim and light sporters had those raised wood panel along both sides of the magazine area - was not decoration - was to carry that recoil and try to hold the stock together. Many heavy kicking bolt guns also have a cross bolt between the magazine and the trigger mortice. P14 and M1917 had a threaded brass pin across there - those were WWI manufacture. Since forever, I think, Weatherby stocks have an embedded cross strap inside - no heads showing on outside of the stock - but same purpose - hold the sides together. Was known then that the recoil pulse would actually "wow out" the wood at the sides of the magazine, if allowed to, so needed reinforcement and a "tie" to hold rear of the magazine mortice closed - else it would split back there.

Looking at inletting for my Zastava with everything removed - that stock is basically "wide open" from front of magazine well all the way back to rear of the action tang, with the bulkhead split. If nothing there to hold the sides together, that stock has to split at the tang - is the way the wood is going to flex when a big pulse comes through. Completely separate issue from the recoil shoulder in the stock going mushy or pounded back and allowing the rear tang to split that stock in the same place. I do not think that is really an issue for smaller cartridges like 243 Win, 6.5x55, etc. - but I do believe that is a "thing" for these big boomers. So that bulkhead between rear of magazine and the trigger mortice is not just for show - is supposed to hold the sides of the stock together - in my own case, I was not convinced that the Zastava M70 design was adequate for that - seems to me they use the identical stock arrangement whether it is a 243 Win or a 458 Win Mag. Or, maybe it does "work" for most - but yours and mine suggest there is a challenge...

Maybe just the way things have become - product is made and sold - has to make profit - more profit is better, therefore reduce costs is better. My view is that for that rifle (just checked - was $745 mailed to me in 2013) and some work, I could build up a very tough thing that I could depend on, in any circumstance. Can not do that with anything that you buy today - have to be a bit of a tinkerer - not a popular view, but I put no value in warranties - I have been 5 miles from a road when buddy discovered an issue with his hunting rifle that could not be dealt with there. Right there, at that time and place, a "warranty" is an absolute useless thing - when you need the item to work - now, at this time. One of best reasons for 200 rounds on a range in preparation for one or two hunting shots - want to break it somewhere that it does not really become a life or death issue - scope base screw shear off, rings loose, scope dies, firing pin tip breaks off, and so on - do not want or need that stuff in middle of no-where...
 
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In order to address a number of issues/nags concerning the factory stock, namely:
  • the horrible "recoil pad" which is like an old hockey puck and I can't believe it does much to absorb recoil
  • the LOP which I find about 1/4" -3/8" too long... just enough to make it feel awkward
  • the "hogs back" design...I prefer a more straight comb with less drop at the heel, so recoil is centered in my shoulder and doesn't cause as much muzzle flip. Plus I intend on using an optic
  • the overly gentle curve of the grip, I prefer a more pronounced curve or pistol grip so I can pull the rifle into my shoulder and manage recoil
  • the weak "rolled" or "pressed" checkering which doesn't provide much grip on the stock

I think I'm gonna get in line for a Boyd's Prairie Hunter or Heritage in either Nutmeg or Pepper Laminate for Mauser 98 with #1 Barrel and Commercial floorplate.
It'll be my first laminate stock, but apparently they're stronger than solid wood and a little heavier too, so that should help with recoil... or is it going to rip the laminate apart?
Thoughts?
 
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For $700 + $200 you coulda got a tikka T3 on sale new.
Zastava are a hunk of #### , I’ve had two of them and both were crap. If it was a $400 gun then to be expected that they wouldn’t be perfect , but for $700 they are not “good bang for the buck”.
 
Zastavas require bedding, bolt polishing and trigger smoothing. With that it becomes an incredible rifle. My 9.3x62 shoots sub moa with many handloads.
 
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