Is there a point to rebarrel a Rem 700 Police?

sgt.rock said:
Leave it as-is. You have no guarantee a new barrel will shoot better. You may end up spending $600 to make the rifle shoot worse.
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is this really a risk, that it gets worse? This isnt a comparison but I put a KIDD barrel on my 10-22 and it has become a target rifle :)

But probably going from an already good centerfire barrel to another may be a different beast....

I already see that this whole thing is not easy and not cheap ...

The smart thing would be to reload and probably get just the same improvement, its just that reloading precision rifle rounds is such a pain in the ass :(


I am thinking the money may be better spent on a new scope.... I have a Bushnell tactial and it was ok 10 years ago but now compared to a Vortex Gen2, its a bit meh and dark ...
 
One thing to look at is the condition of your current barrel. Do you have a borescope ? And do you reload ? If the barrel doesn't have a high count and 'looks good' inside, I'd suggest the bedding would be the best solution and maybe your local gunsmith can deal with truing the action and/or checking the chamber, headspace, and chamber leade. These along with handloads would probably be close to your needs. And yes, a new barrel may not 'work' in your rifle - it relies on a sum of inter-related factors. The suggested 'training' is also a good idea - you may have unnoticed 'foibles' affecting your accuracy.
PS - I just saw your last post and wanted to add I'm using a Bushnell Engage 6-18x50 SFP on my .223 RA-Standard which is 'barely' a 1.5MOA rifle. And I have a Cabelas Covenant-4 6-24x50 FFP on my Savage B22 which is under MOA at 50. The Covenant runs about $525 tx in and I like it way better than the Vortex 4-12 Diamondback it replaced. It has MOA reticle with numbers every 4th bar.
 
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Buck1950 said:
One thing to look at is the condition of your current barrel. Do you have a borescope ? And do you reload ? If the barrel doesn't have a high count and 'looks good' inside, I'd suggest the bedding would be the best solution and maybe your local gunsmith can deal with truing the action and/or checking the chamber, headspace, and chamber leade. These along with handloads would probably be close to your needs. And yes, a new barrel may not 'work' in your rifle - it relies on a sum of inter-related factors. The suggested 'training' is also a good idea - you may have unnoticed 'foibles' affecting your accuracy.
PS - I just saw your last post and wanted to add I'm using a Bushnell Engage 6-18x50 SFP on my .223 RA-Standard which is 'barely' a 1.5MOA rifle. And I have a Cabelas Covenant-4 6-24x50 FFP on my Savage B22 which is under MOA at 50. The Covenant runs about $525 tx in and I like it way better than the Vortex 4-12 Diamondback it replaced. It has MOA reticle with numbers every 4th bar.
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I dont have a borescope but the barrel should be good. I got the gun almost unused and fired 300 rounds tops so far.


I dont reload rifle ammo because how painful it is, especially if you go for accuracy ... I just looked into it and looks you cant get components or dies :(

Based on all the good feedback , I decided to just bed the action, if possible action trued and leave it at that and maybe start hand loading
 
Teac said:
I dont have a borescope but the barrel should be good. I got the gun almost unused and fired 300 rounds tops so far.


I dont reload rifle ammo because how painful it is, especially if you go for accuracy ... I just looked into it and looks you cant get components or dies :(

Based on all the good feedback , I decided to just bed the action, if possible action trued and leave it at that and maybe start hand loading
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Components and dies for a 223 are pretty much everywhere. Seriously. - dan
 
dan belisle said:
Components and dies for a 223 are pretty much everywhere. Seriously. - dan
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Powder and dies seem a bit scarce but I am starting to grab all the pieces.

NEXT question is what bullet weight?

Apparently the rifle has a 1:9 twist. Should I get 69 or 77 gr bullets?
 
JMO but I think you should get a borescope, "... 300 rounds tops..." can make a mess, especially in a 'standard' barrel. I just shot a dozen in .308 FMJ and there was lots of copper inside for sure, tho you may subscribe the theory that's a good thing - I like 'em shiny white, not brass. I clean my .223(Ruger 1:8) & .308(Rem722) around 20-30 rounds, if that many. Granted they're only 1-2MOA guns but I don't think cleaning is their problem, I need more practice.
 
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Teac said:
Powder and dies seem a bit scarce but I am starting to grab all the pieces.

NEXT question is what bullet weight?

Apparently the rifle has a 1:9 twist. Should I get 69 or 77 gr bullets?
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You already are getting .5" and .75" groups with factory ammo - what bullet weights were they? I would think to try to replicate those??? Same brand, same velocity??
 
Potashminer said:
You already are getting .5" and .75" groups with factory ammo - what bullet weights were they? I would think to try to replicate those??? Same brand, same velocity??
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69 gr S&B match and fed prem 69 gr match with sierra matchking.

but maybe those arent ideal, however per Dan it seems the right weight so I stick with it. If there is a better weight then i can also get different bullets for handloads.

The only think I dont want is trying dozens of different brands of bullets.
 
Potashminer said:
You already are getting .5" and .75" groups with factory ammo - what bullet weights were they? I would think to try to replicate those??? Same brand, same velocity??
Click to expand...

69 gr S&B match and fed prem 69 gr match with sierra matchking.

but maybe those arent ideal, however per Dan it seems the right weight so I stick with it. If there is a better weight then i can also get different bullets for handloads.

The only think I dont want is trying dozens of different brands of bullets.
 
I've never heard of anyone refer to Sierra Matchkings as anything less than ideal (when it comes to matters of accuracy).
 
Rifles will generally "tune" to a particular bullet weight, due to barrel harmonics. Stick with what works. Adjusting the powder charge is the next step to fine tuning a load.
 
Reloading is your best bet to tighten groups, then bed action, then rebarrel if it doesn’t help.
Some people have a bad habit of over leaning their rifles. I used to clean my bolt guns after every outing.
They say don’t clean them until your groups start to open up, as it needs to refoul the rifling with copper and powder.
Just my 2c.
 
No, it won’t improve much. My brother did the same. He gained about .15-.2 MOA better, depending on the day. Your shooting is the biggest an simplest area to improve. Get off the bench, or built a proper bench gun and reload.
 
If the gun shoots, no issue with factory barrel.
That is assuming the shooter can shoot.

However, I have had two rifles recently (CA Ridgeline 6.5 PRC, and a Rem 5R Gen 2 6.5cm) that were not shooting - a quick look with the borescope showed major flaws - CA had a real rough chamber and throat, the Rem 5R had deep tooling marks all the way down the barrel, and a loose bolt on lock-up..

CA replaced under warranty, which the new barrel exceeded their MOA guarantee.
The 5R was rebarrelled with a m24 8 twist Benchmark, bolt tuned, and its now a serious shooter that will keep up with most bench rifles.
Of course, a competent gunsmith makes all the difference.

So I would say well worth changing barrels IF accuracy goes to poop. Only way to tell is to shoot it.
 
Accuracy will likely improve with hand loaded ammo tuned to your rifle. Just because the ammo box says "Match" does not mean it will shoot well in your rifle. It means that it may shoot better than Winchester white box or some other bulk fodder. While waiting for your press and reloading components, have your action properly bedded. With your twist 69 gr SMK's and maybe 75 gr Hornady bullets should work. I have a 1:9" Krieger barrel that will shoot 80's out to 1000 yards, but it is 28" long and you need 2 scoops of powder to get there. Best not to try and hotrod the loads and stick with 69's and try 75's and keep to ranges out to 600 yards.
If you come to a dead end after handloading and bedding the action the next step would be a new barrel. It is at this point that you would have the action trued.
 
So having read all the posts, and boiling it down, bed the rifle. Learn to reload and adjust your loads for your rifle. Start with 69 gr bullets, as you know they already group well. Once that has been done, look to training to improve your LR shooting. If you want to use heavier bullets, then I would suggest a 7 twist barrel. Get the action trued at that time. FWIW - dan
 
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