Free All and CLR

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Gabriel S.

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[FONT=&quot]I see a few people on youtube using CLR and Free All to clean their barrels. I have 2 riles with heavy carbon deposits. I tried a few things but it takes so much time.[/FONT]
[FONT=&quot]Any thoughts on Free All and CLR?[/FONT]
 
sailor38 said:
Try to get some KG carbon remover. I have had very good luck with this product.
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I used that one and didn't really do any damage to the carbon. I borescope after each product to check the results. I leave it to soak for 5-10 mins then I run a nylon brush and then a patch.
What do you do different?
 
Clr works well, just be careful on anything painted or blued etc as it'll eat it if you leave it for a bit.
I have used it on muzzle brakes etc but I usually soak them in it for a few minutes, then they wipe up easy.
 
9 mm brush soaked in Carb-out attached to an old bronze cleaning rod attached to a low speed drill. Take the carbon ring off my 308 Win chamber in a few seconds.
Follow that up with a foamy blast of Wipe-out .... good to go
 
Used CLR once, never again. Discoloured my stainless brake and barrel. Carbon builds in layers every time it’s fired and left to harden. JB bore paste on a patch wrapped on an undersized brush will speed things up but it may take several good cleanings, layer by layer. I have excellent results with Wipeout Tactical Advantage as well.
 
Gabriel S. said:
[FONT="]I see a few people on youtube using CLR and Free All to clean their barrels. I have 2 riles with heavy carbon deposits. I tried a few things but it takes so much time.[/FONT][/COLOR]
[COLOR=#151514][FONT="]Any thoughts on Free All and CLR?[/FONT]
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Wipe Out.

I would be very surprised if all you have is heavy carbon deposits.

Carbon is coarse, like sandpaper and it will promote copper fouling.

That's how the CFE powders help to eliminate copper fouling, mostly by cutting down carbon residue in the barrel
 
CLR does work well, but will eventually etch even stainless.
I’d start there, and don’t leave it in very long, and then move to an abrasive like Iosso or JB Bore Paste for what’s still stubborn.
 
CLR remove blue on gun parts very fast.
It also etch hard chromed parts and can etch Stainless if soaked in it. I soaked a gun SS comp in it - it does remove carbon but damage the finish.

I tried it in a SS barrel, it work but now I use a carbon cleaner and a good bronze brush.
It does work for cleaning revolver cylinder face with a scotch abrasive nylon pad but that as far as I use it now.

That stuff is corrosive.
 
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Go to your friendly Chrysler dealer's parts department and buy a tin of CCC [Combustion Chamber Conditioner]
MOPAR P/N 0VU00788AB (those are zeros, not "O's") [For the record, I do not own any Chrysler vehicles, lol]

It is very good at removing carbon, and will not affect bluing. May damage wood stock finishes, though.
If your carbon is laying between layers of copper, you will have to address each layer separately.

Spray it onto a loose fitting patch, and swab the throat/bore liberally. Let sit for 20 mins at room temp.
[warmer is better] then swab out the carbon with fresh CCC. Repeat as necessary. Dave.
 
Something I have not tried (on guns), but should work well is throttle body cleaner. It is meant to dissolve hard carbon deposits in automotive applications. It's fast evaporating.
 
Munkey1973 said:
9 mm brush soaked in Carb-out attached to an old bronze cleaning rod attached to a low speed drill. Take the carbon ring off my 308 Win chamber in a few seconds.
Follow that up with a foamy blast of Wipe-out .... good to go
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You're brave, I ony use the "power brush" on smooth bores.
 
Foam bore cleaners, below a 1943 British Enfield with a pitted bore that was left soak overnight. Then the foam was removed, without any use of any type of bore brush and the bore oiled.

p59rhnP.jpg
 
I tried a lot of the carbon removers mentioned. wipeout, carb out, hoppes, CLR and honestly the only way i could get it 100% clean in a few neglected bores was by using KG Bore Polish a mild abrasive. it broke up the really stubborn carbon enough that the solvents could go to work.

For stainless steel muzzle brakes i found a strong lemishine/water solution really broke down the carbon. Much better than CLR. dont use it on anything steel or coated thought
 
bearhunter said:
That's how the CFE powders help to eliminate copper fouling, mostly by cutting down carbon residue in the barrel
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CFE powders contain Tin Dioxide which acts on copper deposits directly. I have used a bit of BLK and 223 in bulk amounts. Both are as bad as comparable powders for carbon fouling.
 
bigedp51 said:
Foam bore cleaners, below a 1943 British Enfield with a pitted bore that was left soak overnight. Then the foam was removed, without any use of any type of bore brush and the bore oiled.

p59rhnP.jpg
Click to expand...

I totally agree with you on the foam bore cleaner. I recently purchased two old European 30-06's and the foam works wonderfully!
 
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