Sanding laminate stock?

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BillyBandue

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Hey all - received a new Weatherby (Vanguard Sporter Laminate); really happy with it except for the bolt slot. It's not centered and one side is *just* rubbing on the bolt when I open it. I'm not super fussed about it from a visual perspective but I don't really want to leave it rubbing since it will likely pull the bluing off the bolt. Can you sand laminate? I guess I would have to seal that small area after? What would I use? Thanks!

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It is likely the stock is off or maybe designed for a different bolt handle than you have but before I went too far Id disassemble and reassemble to make 100% sure its sitting right.

I'm not sure if steaming and clamping it would get enough clearance. Since it's hidden by the bolt handle I'd carefully sand it then hit it with tru-oil. I'm no expert on laminate stocks though, I'm sure someone will chime in with the proper way to seal it.
 
It will sand like any wood. Might clog up the paper a bit faster but so will the finish.

Reassemble as suggested and if there's no other problem open the notch a bit and reseal. Should be very straightforward.
 
Times two on the file, you may need a round file on the bottom to even out the slot, to refinish I would use something like Tru oil or Tung oil, I would definitely deal with this before you shoot it, many years ago I had a similar situation with an aftermarket laminate stock and I procrastinated, ended up splitting the stock ahead of the bolt.
 
MkivSupra said:
It is likely the stock is off or maybe designed for a different bolt handle than you have but before I went too far Id disassemble and reassemble to make 100% sure its sitting right.
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vagrantviking said:
Reassemble as suggested and if there's no other problem open the notch a bit and reseal. Should be very straightforward.
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9.3mauser said:
Looking at the ejection port, it seems like the actions not seated properly in the stock.
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You guys are correct; it seems there's a bit of hard foam/fiberglass which got between the barrel unit and the inside of the wood. It seems to be taking up the 1mm or so I need to push the stock back. Am ok to remove this stuff? Don't want to mess up the stock. Some pics included.

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I went ahead and sanded it down with a small file. Here is the end result:

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Now I can close the bolt without rubbing but it is *very* close. If I put a receipt in between I can just slide it in/out with slight rubbing and holding the receipt in place. Bit closer than I'd like but I don't know what else I can do right now. The action at the tang area is now tight to the wood cutout. There isn't really any room to move further back. It seems the stock doesn't have a great fit sadly. Any recommendations from here? Pretty disappointing for a new rifle.

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Buckmastr said:
IMO you need to get it properly/professionally bedded. You don’t want wood metal contact at the tang.
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Thanks - I'll likely go in this direction. Hate to spend the money on a new rifle but what can you do. I love how Weatherby's shoot but this is the second one I've bought with quality control issues. Price point I guess.
 
Billy - might be a continuation of a "theme" - I noticed in many products - Nicholson files now made in Mexico or Brazil, Hoppe's #9 or Varathane 66 no longer even close to same chemicals for past 25 years, your "Weatherby" - as if 30 or more years ago, all were great products - developed strong customer recognition - today is made who knows where, and most definitely not the same quality as what built up that brand name, but a salesman will tell you it is "just as good as ...", or even hear the same from some buyers who will ignore what is right in front of them - all they see is the brand name.
 
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First off, Have you contacted the vendor about this issue ?? If bought at a 'walk-in brick/mortar store' they may be able/inclined to help you. This should be a Warranty issue.
As has been said, you do not want the tang to be contacting the stock at the wrist, it can cause the wood to split. The recoil lug (the creamy stuff in pics) should be 'cut back' a bit and also the wood at the tang. Also, consider how the action screws are placed, they may not allow much variation in the needed changes.
 
Post #15 has several great points - is not a minor thing to move the receiver in the action inletting, without putting contact with the action screws. That will also change bedding or fit along the fore-arm, although that one appears to not have any barrel or chamber area bedding. So far as I know, recoil is to be transferred to stock only at the rear of recoil lug - some "boomers" have a second recoil lug under the barrel - should be the only points of hard recoil contact, I think? I have read some discussion about whether or not contact is desirable at side or front of that lug - but is an accuracy thing, I think - not a recoil thing. All the epoxy bedding that I have done - mostly on Mausers - has masking tape on sides and front of the recoil lug, to get smidgeon of clearance. At minimum, makes subsequent dis-assembly much easier with that clearance.
 
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Buck1950 said:
First off, Have you contacted the vendor about this issue ?? If bought at a 'walk-in brick/mortar store' they may be able/inclined to help you. This should be a Warranty issue.
As has been said, you do not want the tang to be contacting the stock at the wrist, it can cause the wood to split. The recoil lug (the creamy stuff in pics) should be 'cut back' a bit and also the wood at the tang. Also, consider how the action screws are placed, they may not allow much variation in the needed changes.
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I bought it from Prophet River remotely (I'm in BC). I haven't contacted them; I'm keen to keep the rifle and the quality control isn't their fault (PR). As I noted it's my second Weatherby with QC issues (first was from Reliable Gun). In the first case I sent it back and got an X-Bolt instead (they didn't have another Weatherby in the caliber I was after). Since I want to keep this one I made an appointment with my gunsmith to have him bed it properly. I could send it off for warranty I suppose but I'm happy to spend some cash to have my smith do it up well for me.
 
The "foam" is factory hot melt bedding. It's quite common.

Laminate stocks are made from birch; dyed then laminated together. All blanks used to be made by Rutland Plywood, but that may no longer be true. The good part is the finish/dye goes all the way through, so if you sand it you're not cutting into raw wood. I'd sand out the bolt groove a smidge and put a little Tru-oil on it, to hide the evidence of sanding.


When I was still making knives I ground piles of that stuff. After grinding and sanding a trip over a buffing wheel is the only finish they needed.

Bedding a rifle is seldom a mistake though.
 
BillyBandue said:
Thanks - I'll likely go in this direction. Hate to spend the money on a new rifle but what can you do. I love how Weatherby's shoot but this is the second one I've bought with quality control issues. Price point I guess.
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Sand clearance at the tang and sides and bed it yourself. It really isnt difficult. - dan
 
You can use several coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil to seal the sanded area. For extra protection against water, I like to buff in Renaissance Wax (get it on Amazon). Larry Potterfield from MidwayUSA has some good YouTube videos on this.
 
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