10/22 help - kidd trigger issue

M

machohugeaxe

Regular
Rating - 100%
33   0   0
Location
Peel Region, Ontario
Hi recently purchased a custom 10/23 from EE. It had a kidd single stage trigger that is very light and had almost no travel in either direction.

Tested it out at the range today and I'm running into an issue, 1 of 2 things happen:

1. Fires and extracts properly, chambers next round vut trigger is not reset and I see a strike mark on the rim of the chambered round

2. After firing a few more, it starts to double fire in 1 trigger pull. I can only assume those strikes on the chambered rou d has become hard enough to fire the round.

Any suggestions?
 
Last edited:
You have firing pin strikes. Common with semi-autos as the bolt closes and momentum keeps moving the firing pin.

You have a bad trigger disconnect. The trigger should snap when released after firing.

When the gun fires more than once, it is called doubling. Go back to the other two issues.

I suggest the trigger was adjusted to an unsafe weight. You could gripe and whine that the seller sold something you don't like. Not worth the effort. Buy a few new parts and get on with life. https://ruger1022.com/blog/ruger-1022-trigger-diagram/
 
maple_leaf_eh said:
You have firing pin strikes. Common with semi-autos as the bolt closes and momentum keeps moving the firing pin.

You have a bad trigger disconnect. The trigger should snap when released after firing.

When the gun fires more than once, it is called doubling. Go back to the other two issues.

I suggest the trigger was adjusted to an unsafe weight. You could gripe and whine that the seller sold something you don't like. Not worth the effort. Buy a few new parts and get on with life. https://ruger1022.com/blog/ruger-1022-trigger-diagram/
Click to expand...

Would you say it's more of a trigger issue or firing pin issue. I was planning on adjusting the trigger weight and over travel settings but not sure if that would help
 
machohugeaxe said:
Would you say it's more of a trigger issue or firing pin issue. I was planning on adjusting the trigger weight and over travel settings but not sure if that would help
Click to expand...

There isn't much to adjust on the firing pin. It is a piece of stamped sheet metal with some holes and cutouts on the edges. A common thing is to polish the flats of that style of firing pin to remove the manufacturing burrs or curls on the edges. The nose might have an irregularity but there isn't much for the user to maintain on it. Ruger knows its business and isn't going to intentionally sell defective parts.

So working at a distance, I think the light trigger pull as you say is the issue. Refer to the diagram and buy a new hammer, disconnector, and sear. Learn how to put them in on YT and try again. If you're feeling snarky, send the seller a sh!tty-gram and leave it at that. Dumping bad guns on the EE does happen .....
 
Last edited:
machohugeaxe said:
Hi recently purchased a custom 10/23 from EE. It had a kidd single stage trigger that is very light and had almost no travel in either direction.

Tested it out at the range today and I'm running into an issue, 1 of 2 things happen:

1. Fires and extracts properly, chambers next round vut trigger is not reset and I see a strike mark on the rim of the chambered round

2. After firing a few more, it starts to double fire in 1 trigger pull. I can only assume those strikes on the chambered rou d has become hard enough to fire the round.

Any suggestions?
Click to expand...

I'd email kidd for advise on how to adjust their trigger, I had a Timney trigger in a Grey Birch receiver doing the same things. Installed it in a Ruger receiver with a Ruger bolt, solved all the issues. Sometimes tolerances with certain combinations do not work.
 
I'd increase the pull weight and try it again. I believe the Kidd single stage should not be adjusted below 1.5 lbs. I had one years ago and wanted to see how light it would go. After a certain point lowering the pull weight caused issues like you are describing. Adjusting the pull weight is a matter of adjusting one screw. Lots of YouTube videos and directions on Kidd's website.
 
dfrombc said:
I'd increase the pull weight and try it again. I believe the Kidd single stage should not be adjusted below 1.5 lbs. I had one years ago and wanted to see how light it would go. After a certain point lowering the pull weight caused issues like you are describing. Adjusting the pull weight is a matter of adjusting one screw. Lots of YouTube videos and directions on Kidd's website.
Click to expand...

Thanks, going to try this first. Sadly didnt have a 1/16 key at the range, will have to head out there again. I've adjusted it as heavy as I think is reasonable.
 
So I increased trigger weight and it's not double firing anymore but it's also not resetting the trigger..
Picked up a BX trigger, will try that and then if it works then I can probably isolate the problem to the trigger.
 
Last edited:
Update on this. I adjusted the trigger until it was difficult to fire and still it does not reset. I loaded 1 round and fired then took the trigger out and confirmed that the hammer was down and not reset by the shot.

I replaced it with a cheap BX and it functioned flawlessly.
Which is too bad because the kidd triggers price was factored into what I paid.

At this point i dont know enough about the mechanics to know what to try next. Not sure if I should try to fix it or sell for cheap with full disclosure, to someone who can fix it up.
 
machohugeaxe said:
Update on this. I adjusted the trigger until it was difficult to fire and still it does not reset. I loaded 1 round and fired then took the trigger out and confirmed that the hammer was down and not reset by the shot.

I replaced it with a cheap BX and it functioned flawlessly.
Which is too bad because the kidd triggers price was factored into what I paid.

At this point i dont know enough about the mechanics to know what to try next. Not sure if I should try to fix it or sell for cheap with full disclosure, to someone who can fix it up.
Click to expand...

Email Kidd first. I'm sure they will help you.
 
Knowing what the previous owner would have been filing down in pursuit of an "awesome" trigger job would help. Good chance they went too far and caused the problems you've seen and flipped the gun rather than replacing the parts and trying again. The trigger and sear are the likely problem points. Kidd probably has a trigger job repentance kit available.
 
old303 said:
Knowing what the previous owner would have been filing down in pursuit of an "awesome" trigger job would help. Good chance they went too far and caused the problems you've seen and flipped the gun rather than replacing the parts and trying again. The trigger and sear are the likely problem points. Kidd probably has a trigger job repentance kit available.
Click to expand...

Hmm the seller said they never did any trigger job and that they never had these issues. I have no reason to doubt them. However its worth it to note that they had not shot the gun in years, and didn't look like it has been cleaned prior to being put away. I might just have to take it apart and give it a cleaning maybe. Either way, I will pursue all avenues trying to salvage what otherwise feels like a GREAT trigger.
 
Trying to remember a trigger I had. It had a set screw through the sear to adjust how much engagement it had. If you turned this set screw in too far ( ie: trying to make it a hair trigger) it would push on the disconnect preventing it from resetting.

You would have to disassemble your rifle/trigger t see if you have something like this, or, there may be a hole in the top of the trigger to allow you to adjust it without disassebly.

Edit: I googled the manual, it doesn't mention this adjustment, so yours probably doesn't have it. The manual says if it's not resetting or the hammer is following.. turn up the trigger pull weight.
 
Last edited:
If you had the trigger adjusted and not double firing anymore, the trigger reset is either the bolt not sliding smoothly in the receiver easily, or the spring on the bolt is too strong.

What ammo velocity were you using? Has the stock spring been replaced?

I just looked a few days ago at someones 10/22 they were having cycling issues, and sure enough just enough gunk on the bolt to not cycle smoothly, and the charge handle was not sliding smoothly on the bar is slides on. Very choppy spring movement.

I would look at this first, or the trigger has something inside it to stop it from loading up the hammer properly. Maybe take it apart and inspect, clean, lube and try again. Have never had any issues with Kidd triggers and I've had a few.

Had similar issues with a Timney, and they had to replace internals on the sear disconnect. Even then it never did work just right.
 
wallz said:
If you had the trigger adjusted and not double firing anymore, the trigger reset is either the bolt not sliding smoothly in the receiver easily, or the spring on the bolt is too strong.

What ammo velocity were you using? Has the stock spring been replaced?

I just looked a few days ago at someones 10/22 they were having cycling issues, and sure enough just enough gunk on the bolt to not cycle smoothly, and the charge handle was not sliding smoothly on the bar is slides on. Very choppy spring movement.

I would look at this first, or the trigger has something inside it to stop it from loading up the hammer properly. Maybe take it apart and inspect, clean, lube and try again. Have never had any issues with Kidd triggers and I've had a few.

Had similar issues with a Timney, and they had to replace internals on the sear disconnect. Even then it never did work just right.
Click to expand...
Using CCI SV.
I replaced it with a BX trigger and it functions well. I'm going to take apart the Kidd trigger and clean it. I contacted Kidd, was waiting for a response before I took it apart. Comparing the triggers side by side, the Kidd trigger seems to reset at a point where the hammer is lower/further back than the BX trigger, but not a significant amount.

I was going to grab some mini mag to try, and if it works, it might not be purely a trigger issue. If it still doesn't, I'm going to take apart the trigger and give it clean. The thing I'm not sure about is, is it possible to have successful ejections and still not go back far enough to engage the trigger reset. I'm not sure about lubricating any of the parts, reading conflicting things about this.
 
Don't know enough about the triggers but your firing pin should have a small spring pushing it back from the 'fired' position so that when the slide closes it should take a hammer strike to make the firing pin go forward. Shouldn't be free travel. (the firing pin in an M1, for example, does float around freely but isn't heavy enough (normally) to fire when the bolt closes - the pin in a 10-22 should be held back by a spring until it's hit by the whammer.
 
AikiNut said:
Don't know enough about the triggers but your firing pin should have a small spring pushing it back from the 'fired' position so that when the slide closes it should take a hammer strike to make the firing pin go forward. Shouldn't be free travel. (the firing pin in an M1, for example, does float around freely but isn't heavy enough (normally) to fire when the bolt closes - the pin in a 10-22 should be held back by a spring until it's hit by the whammer.
Click to expand...

Yes I think the hammer is not stopping from not catching on the sear, and being bounced back by the hammer strut/spring and hitting the pin. When I raised the trigger weight, the hammer "ease of rotation" seems to also have been affected, its tighter now and doesn't move as freely. So i think when it bounces back onto the pin, its not hitting hard enough to cause doubling.

At least this is what I'm imagining to be happening, I'm not an expert by any means.
 
I have had a white grease, which I suspect to be lithium grease on the trigger hammer area that rotates in the housing and the trigger return springs. This is where you want some, not overly too much grease and a slight bit on the spring areas. Everything near the sear should be dry. That said, I usually wipe down all the parts with a cotton rag after said rag gets a shot of oil. But this is a very tiny amount on the actual parts and more just for airborne water.

Something is stopping the hammer from sliding properly to push the hammer back enough to engage the sear disconnect, or the sear is not catching when hammer is sliding back. The fact that it works with a BX trigger is the puzzle. Maybe the spring on the hammer is not installed properly and causing it, or in fact pointing to a sear issue.

Like I said above, I have only ever had this happen with a calvin elite trigger, and they replaced the sear mechanism, but it still was not perfect after words. I think it was a combination of the bolt not sliding nicely on the charge handle spring and rod, and the trigger on that one.

Could it be possible that the charge handle spring is too light, and the bolt bounces off the buffer too quickly to catch the sear properly?? Trying to think out loud on this one!! I have never really tested for this to see if it is even possible?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom