1911 grease?
- Thread starter Fox
- Start date
I use slide glide - a very thin grease on my 2011 open major gun - slide rails, cone barrel to slide junction and the barrel slide release pin. My open gun just work better this way.
Why grease ? Because those open gun are shot fast - a lots of rounds in a short time and gun become hot in short order.Oil just disappear and trow gunk all over the place.
Remaining parts , I use Lucas gun oil. It’s tick and stay longer were you put it than light oil.
All my other handguns - including 1911 are oil only.
Why grease ? Because those open gun are shot fast - a lots of rounds in a short time and gun become hot in short order.Oil just disappear and trow gunk all over the place.
Remaining parts , I use Lucas gun oil. It’s tick and stay longer were you put it than light oil.
All my other handguns - including 1911 are oil only.
Last edited:
I was told to run the 1911s wet and the rails should be greased, that is just what was told, keeps the wear down.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
When I use grease I use whatever high temp wheel bearing grease I have in the shop at the moment, honestly oil or grease will work equally as well as the other. I do notice more carbon buildup with grease, it stays put though. Oil will migrate I’ve noticed, after prolonged storage mainly. After using both for awhile I prefer oil.
I have Lucas Grease on mine, but only because I got it for free.
here's everything you need to know.
https://www.cherrybalmz.com/post/secrets-of-1911-reliability-how-to-lube-for-maximum-performance
here's everything you need to know.
https://www.cherrybalmz.com/post/secrets-of-1911-reliability-how-to-lube-for-maximum-performance
I needed grease for the choke tubes, I figured the nipple grease for my MLs would work just as well so put a little dab on the tube and installed, I guess I could probably use the same stuff for rail grease on the 1911s.
- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
I’d bet any automotive grease should be fine, I grabbed the high temp stuff as any heat it deals with in my pistols will be nowhere near what it will see in an automotive application. I just find oil easier when cleaning, less mess easier to remove and it’s still there after I’ve used it enough to want to clean it.
If I was needing to store a gun for longer periods I would use grease, I had a friends rusty M94 to restore and the internal mech had been greased well before it sat for years keeping the trigger, lifters etc etc rust free. I’ve used grease to “season” the exterior of a couple parkerized and matte blued shotguns, works well when you need it to.
I have a small tube of synthetic fishing reel grease I have had for a long time. Use it on the wear points. It's a machine, machines need lube. dan
When I pulled the stocks off the original military rifles and anything with a long stock I tend to use something heavier too, I used a storage WD-40 product in the past, and Lithium grease as well, just something that stays where I put it and stops the water from getting in there to rust things.
I use Lubriplate as I have it for other firearms. Stiction when cold and after a long time I stored is a fact but once you’re shooting the gun warms up nicely and the grease is on the surfaces that it needs to be. I wouldn’t use this grease if it was a CC gun.
When I had a 1911 I used Jardine's Extreme weapons grease on the rails. It's good stuff and sticks around longer than oil, but I'm sure automotive grease is pretty similar. The Jardine's stuff comes in a little syringe with a fine tip that's handy for applying small amounts. I still use it on bolt lugs (sparingly).
I have switched over to using slip2000 grease on pretty much all my firearms where metal rubs on metal just a very thin coating is all you need and it stays where you want it, Oil always moves to the lowest point. I would never ever use automotive grease or similar tho its to thick and sticky but the slip2000 is meant for firearms, AGL defense go juice 0000 very thin grease is another good one too
Been running my guns on Ballistol for years without a problem. Clean them after every outing and re apply ballistol internally and externally.
Before storing: one last patch soeked in ballistol down the bore. Of course, 2 dry patches before shooting. No rust and functions as should.
Gilbert
Before storing: one last patch soeked in ballistol down the bore. Of course, 2 dry patches before shooting. No rust and functions as should.
Gilbert
Wax isn't grease, so no. But I agree that it smells great.
I would say it is not a grease.
It is a great cleaner. Just for carbon buildup though. Works better than hoppes 9 solvent and non toxic. So no gloves and fumes are not a problem. If you have an excess of it, I find it dries and turns sticky. It's great for cleaning the sticky goo from cutting tape off your pocket knife too.
