Got my Boyds M14 stock....not impressed..

Assyrian

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The top photo shows the stock a dark brown...almost exactly like the chinese mystery wood.

The middle photo is the other side... a much lighter colour. And of course the lovely marks on butt end shown in the last pic.

$85 is not cheap. The $30 shipping is not cheap....plus the $16 customs fee.....

I was expecting more..:cool:
 
For a hardwood rifle stock, $85 isn't exactly expensive either.

The laminate stock that I ordered for my M14 was $300 once you factor in the handguard and recoil pad. Granted, I got a lot more for my $300 than you did for your $85.

What is the stock like other than the esthetics? Good hard wood? Is it a step up from the Chu wood that you're replacing? Look on the bright side, buddy. You've spent $530 on your rifle...you'd spend a lot more than that to get the same rifle if you were in the US.
 
I'm with hitzy. That wood seems to have some nice character for sure. Refinish should bring that right out! The rear of the stock though, almost looks like burn marks, or stain under stain. Hopefully that will lift out with some mild sanding.
 
Is there a finish on it? Or just a stain? The wood looks dry and open grained. If mine is like that, I'll sand it down and refinish it.
 
you might as well re-finish it. Boyd's has a "contract" and will not be selling anymore M1a rifle stocks directly to the "public" in the near future. When all of these stocks are sold out, there won't be to many options to replace chi-com wood.
 
You got a decent stock at a decent price, $85 plus 30 ship is a bargain in the stock world, I wouldn't be expecting more personally. The walnut blanks I buy to make stocks for other rifles run as much as $1000, and even a blank of unfinished walnut in the character of yours here is easily worth what you paid for your finished stock. I'd be happy, and take on the refinishing project. :)
 
yup.... what he said
i've bought a few high grade slabs of stockwood over the years..... no 1000.00 pieces... but 1/2 that easily for me. I also spent a friggen fortune for enough sheet hardwood to make 2 laminate stocks. yew and black walnut purchased in 4 , 3" x 12" x 40" knotless slabs..... that cost me over a grand and then i had to get them milled to 3/16 even thickness..... big time $$$$ then counting my labour to turn the laminated chunks into stocks :D

hehehe i digress...... refinish her and show us some pics, I'll bet she will turn out great. there is some nice figure to that stock..... I see it hiding there ;)
 
Alright.:)
Like I said, I was expecting a little more, thats all.
Yes, it is 27 times better than the chinese mystery wood.

Stock refinishing, ummmm.....sure, I think I passed Grade 9 woodworking because the teacher liked me......:runaway:

Thanks for the comments.
 
No better time to start then now! A little research, patience, stripper, and a place to ask questions (right here) and your set! A most rewarding experience. Take your time, and you will be glad you did it yourself!
 
Assyrian.Its the journey we remember not the destination. Think of the new skills and abilities you get to learn with a bunch of really good guys here in cyberland.Any one with cash can buy something nice but to make it yourself is a much better reward and if you screw up,who cares.Its only a piece of wood get another.Later
 
First thing I'd do is strip it, wash it with TSP (a commercial cleaning chemical, dirt cheap, available at any Canadian Tire and it works amazingly well) or clean it with oven cleaner and a plastic kitchen scrubber with kitchen gloves. Lots of compounds work for the cleaning, including brake cleaner, but don't get this one on your hands.

After you've stripped it, see if there's any dents you want to remove, this can be done by using a hot clothing iron and a wet cloth over the affected area, it will raise dents.

After this, start sanding, the grits I'd recommend are 320 for most of the work as this is already a finished stock (buy quite a few sheets, like 3 to 5, they're cheap), and then I personally would like to move up to 600 grit after the 320, it will be time consuming but give amazing results in the final finish. So buy a few sheets of 600 as well if you really want this to shine.

After that, for the finish, I'll recommend the easiest finish for you to apply in my opinion and the end result is first rate. Buy "Tung Oil" from Canadian Tire or your local hardware/home reno store, and once the stock's sanding is complete, you apply this with a simple rags in coats. For the first few coats, just rub it on liberally every 24 hours (I cut the gap down to 12 frequently with no adverse effects). After the first few coats, you'll see a lustrous finish building, and now you start using less tung oil and rubbing more with the rag. Rubbing the tung oil moistened rag on the finish is capable of producing almost a glass-like finish, just a matter of effort and time. It's a rewarding experience and less work than you'd think.

I did the stock below in exactly the fashion I've talked about above, and it all started with an ugly old USGI stock that I guarantee looked worse than what you've got there to start with.

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Make sure you fit it to you action and trigger guard before finishing. Mine required considerable removal of wood on the right side of the receiver, op rod raceway slopes down below the bottom of the receiver and the wood needs relieving to make it fit. When I look at the old wood, I see it slopes towards the outside edge on the right hand side. Funny thing is, the wood from my pre-2007 norinco is not like this. I'll have to compare the two receivers and see how different they are, if any. Its possible the wood from the pre-2007 gun was simply not as well fitting, and doesn't show this aspect of the receiver. The M1a stock from Boyds doesn't have this to it at all. Both sides of the receiver are equal height, and there is a long strange cutout notch along the right hand side of the receiver, that if it was continued back, would have made for a perfect fit. Without removing wood I couldnt' get my trigger group to lock on, nor would the heel of the receiver touch wood.
 
if you look at the receiver underneath the right edge, stripped from the stock, look at the recever edge under the op rod channel. That whole receiver edge is not flat, it is cut at an angle, and your stock will need to be cornered along this edge for a proper fit. An improper fit will not allow full engagement of the receiver lugs, nor will it allow for proper bedding of the rear of the receiver. The other really bad thing that happens is, your rifle will not be sitting flat in the stock,and will be higher on the right. this will also affect hammer/bolt engagement and your rifle and stock will wear in places they shouldn't.
 
Make sure you fit it to you action and trigger guard before finishing. Mine required considerable removal of wood on the right side of the receiver, op rod raceway slopes down below the bottom of the receiver and the wood needs relieving to make it fit. When I look at the old wood, I see it slopes towards the outside edge on the right hand side. Funny thing is, the wood from my pre-2007 norinco is not like this. I'll have to compare the two receivers and see how different they are, if any. Its possible the wood from the pre-2007 gun was simply not as well fitting, and doesn't show this aspect of the receiver. The M1a stock from Boyds doesn't have this to it at all. Both sides of the receiver are equal height, and there is a long strange cutout notch along the right hand side of the receiver, that if it was continued back, would have made for a perfect fit. Without removing wood I couldnt' get my trigger group to lock on, nor would the heel of the receiver touch wood.

Mine slipped right in the stock...no proplem at all, did I do something wrong?
 
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