Gun Wax
- Thread starter skwerl
- Start date
Quote Originally Posted by bearhunter View Post
I like to warm it up first before applying it to a room-temperature stock.
Works well on the metal bits too.
You don't want to apply wax, oil or anything similar UNDER THE STOCK LINE, where the metal contacts the wood.
What is the reasoning behind this advice, please?
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When wax or oil is applied under the stock line, where the metal comes into contact with the wood, bedding issues can occur.
Wax that penetrates is softer than wood and it will collapse under recoil, yes, I'm going on about a very minor issue.
However, that wax or oil is slippery as well and even if your torque settings are correct, that receiver can move in its bedding enough to create an inconsistent point of impact.
That being said, I wax my barrels from the receiver to the muzzle, when the barrels are free floated.
One big mistake a lot of people make when they glass bed a rifle is to leave the release agent on the receiver and not wipe it out of the bedding.
This can and often does create accuracy issues.
Oil will soak into the wood, expanding it and weakening it by making it softer.
Some people slather their rifles with oil, but eventually it will ruin the stock IMHO.
That can of Cosmo gives me the shivers.
More than one military stock has been damaged with it.
Once that stuff soaks in, it's almost impossible to get it all out.
It's not so bad with rifles that use pillar tubes and have metal recoil shoulders but it causes all sorts of issues on stocks that don't
I've had rifles where the Cosmoline was washed off in hot Varsol baths then wiped again a few days later and up to a year later that stuff is still oozing out of the wood, staining hands and clothes.
This is from rifles that were floated in the stuff and put into storage for a few decades or longer.
I like to warm it up first before applying it to a room-temperature stock.
Works well on the metal bits too.
You don't want to apply wax, oil or anything similar UNDER THE STOCK LINE, where the metal contacts the wood.
What is the reasoning behind this advice, please?
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
When wax or oil is applied under the stock line, where the metal comes into contact with the wood, bedding issues can occur.
Wax that penetrates is softer than wood and it will collapse under recoil, yes, I'm going on about a very minor issue.
However, that wax or oil is slippery as well and even if your torque settings are correct, that receiver can move in its bedding enough to create an inconsistent point of impact.
That being said, I wax my barrels from the receiver to the muzzle, when the barrels are free floated.
One big mistake a lot of people make when they glass bed a rifle is to leave the release agent on the receiver and not wipe it out of the bedding.
This can and often does create accuracy issues.
Oil will soak into the wood, expanding it and weakening it by making it softer.
Some people slather their rifles with oil, but eventually it will ruin the stock IMHO.
That can of Cosmo gives me the shivers.
More than one military stock has been damaged with it.
Once that stuff soaks in, it's almost impossible to get it all out.
It's not so bad with rifles that use pillar tubes and have metal recoil shoulders but it causes all sorts of issues on stocks that don't
I've had rifles where the Cosmoline was washed off in hot Varsol baths then wiped again a few days later and up to a year later that stuff is still oozing out of the wood, staining hands and clothes.
This is from rifles that were floated in the stuff and put into storage for a few decades or longer.
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Another vote for Renaissance Wax. I think it's probably the most-recommended wax treatment for guns. Another wax that I really like is CCL Fine Wax Polish available from many sources, most in the UK (link below). I find that when applied to wood stocks, it seems to produce a slightly-better coating than Renaissance Wax. It has a slightly-thicker consistency than Renaissance Wax.
https://www.williamevans.com/produc...aning-accessories/ccl-gunstock-wax-polish-gmk
https://www.williamevans.com/produc...aning-accessories/ccl-gunstock-wax-polish-gmk
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For those wondering the differences from lee valley/ others
Some info from another forum
“Renaissance Wax is a brand based on conservation wax mixtures developed by the British Museum in the 1950s. The formula is fairly straightforward; BASF's "Wax A", a polyethylene microcrystalline wax, Cosmolloid 80 H, a non-polyethylene microcrystalline wax, and a hydrocarbon solvent with a high flash point (type-3 white spirits). Some document restorers and other conservators may prefer polyethylene-free mixtures which are more easily cleaned, removed or reversed, but inclusion of polyethylene won't adversely affect tools and finishes for woodworking. While each brand is likely to have its own tweaks and differences, any brand based on pH neutral microcrystalline waxes, whether poly or sans, should be suitable.
I mix my own variants, preferring harder versions for metals and stones, softer for certain leathers, vellums or parchments. For library, museum and other restoration and conservational uses, paying more for Renaissance brand may make sense, but for day-to-day woodworking and tool care, cheaper is absolutely fine, so buy the Lee Valley. Either way, the stuff lasts so long and goes so far even the high-priced spread amortizes as thinly as it coats.“
Some info from another forum
“Renaissance Wax is a brand based on conservation wax mixtures developed by the British Museum in the 1950s. The formula is fairly straightforward; BASF's "Wax A", a polyethylene microcrystalline wax, Cosmolloid 80 H, a non-polyethylene microcrystalline wax, and a hydrocarbon solvent with a high flash point (type-3 white spirits). Some document restorers and other conservators may prefer polyethylene-free mixtures which are more easily cleaned, removed or reversed, but inclusion of polyethylene won't adversely affect tools and finishes for woodworking. While each brand is likely to have its own tweaks and differences, any brand based on pH neutral microcrystalline waxes, whether poly or sans, should be suitable.
I mix my own variants, preferring harder versions for metals and stones, softer for certain leathers, vellums or parchments. For library, museum and other restoration and conservational uses, paying more for Renaissance brand may make sense, but for day-to-day woodworking and tool care, cheaper is absolutely fine, so buy the Lee Valley. Either way, the stuff lasts so long and goes so far even the high-priced spread amortizes as thinly as it coats.“
" . . . Some document restorers and other conservators may prefer polyethylene-free mixtures which are more easily cleaned, removed or reversed, but inclusion of polyethylene won't adversely affect tools and finishes for woodworking. . . . " Based on this I chose to go with Minwax Paste Wax. It's made without "poly-stuff" and so shouldn't soak into the wood and be removable with just 'elbow-grease'. I have it on bothe my CZ-455 Lux and CZ 457 VMTR, that I had 'washed' most of what seemed to be a water-based stain using 'Dawn' detergent. And the info given on stocks and woods by 'noremf' (and others) on RFC is expansive and quite helpful. http s://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/stocks-making-repairing-refinishing-mods-etc.275/
Brassman66
CGN frequent flyer
Use German made Ballistol Gun Oil on oiled/waxed Gunstocks. It works well on Wood and also metal surfaces but be careful using it on the tiny Ejector Claw Spring because it may attract to much dirt.
Cheers
Cheers
Wow, no I don't think so. It would be just about the last thing I'd put on a wood stock. Ballistol Gun Oil is mineral oil, something you don't want on wood. Wood expert 'noremf', referenced above (in Post #19) for his many detailed posts re wood stock care on the Rimfire Central Forum, warns against using any mineral-oil type substance on wood. He posted many threads on that forum; here's just one in which he specifically discusses Ballistol:
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threads/ballistol-from-cz-brno-forum.599064/#post-5530582
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- Location
- Blaster land, Okanagan BC
Have a read what they say, I’d feel pretty safe using it on a wood stock. It’s been in use for a long time.
https://ballistol.com/pages/uses
https://ballistol.com/pages/uses
On colour case-hardened or "in the white" receivers and parts I use metal lacquer.
On non CCH blued metal I use Mobil 1 Synthetic grease, once the parts are warmed with a hair dryer.
On wood, it depends on the finish. Oil or Varnish?
In either case, first I'll clean the wood with Reliant Lemon Oil Furniture cleaner in clear [yellow actually], walnut or mahogany [really old pint glass bottles that I picked up at the dump], although I'm not sure where you'd find that [it's so old the contents are in pints and there's no French on the labels!]. I've also used Scot's Old Gold Furniture Cleaner [try Home Hardware].
Then, depending on the finish,
I use either Antiquax [Brown] or Gaudreault Antiques [Walnut] Velour Wax, but if it's a cheap stock, I'll use Minwax special dark paste finishing wax.
If the stock is oil finished, it'll just get a coat of alkanet-root stained tung oil rubbed in.
On non CCH blued metal I use Mobil 1 Synthetic grease, once the parts are warmed with a hair dryer.
On wood, it depends on the finish. Oil or Varnish?
In either case, first I'll clean the wood with Reliant Lemon Oil Furniture cleaner in clear [yellow actually], walnut or mahogany [really old pint glass bottles that I picked up at the dump], although I'm not sure where you'd find that [it's so old the contents are in pints and there's no French on the labels!]. I've also used Scot's Old Gold Furniture Cleaner [try Home Hardware].
Then, depending on the finish,
I use either Antiquax [Brown] or Gaudreault Antiques [Walnut] Velour Wax, but if it's a cheap stock, I'll use Minwax special dark paste finishing wax.
If the stock is oil finished, it'll just get a coat of alkanet-root stained tung oil rubbed in.
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Ballistol is incredible stuff.
It was designed to protect wood, metal, and leather, even treat rashes and abrasions over a century ago.
BALLISTOL STINKS.
Ballistol penetrates deep into wood and leather. It doesn't harden but can become gummy or sticky to the touch. It will also cause a buildup that attracts all sorts of grunge in areas you can't see and don't need it.
It's OK if that's all you have available, but it's meant to be wiped down regularly and reapplied if needed.
It was designed to protect wood, metal, and leather, even treat rashes and abrasions over a century ago.
BALLISTOL STINKS.
Ballistol penetrates deep into wood and leather. It doesn't harden but can become gummy or sticky to the touch. It will also cause a buildup that attracts all sorts of grunge in areas you can't see and don't need it.
It's OK if that's all you have available, but it's meant to be wiped down regularly and reapplied if needed.
EDIT - I wanted to put this at the beginning of my reply, tho I just found it after re-reading noremf's post that S-Pender linked regarding 'any' oil products:
"... If you do leave any oil on the stock and any of it gets to the wood and begins to separate the finish from the wood you will be far beyond the "I wish I had" stage and into the learning new swear words stage. ..."
I'd TRUST Noremf b4 I'd trust any Corporate entity, especially if they're selling shik. Read his posts on RFC.
As South Pender suggested :
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/threa.../#post-5530582
And noremf's other threads :
https://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/stocks-making-repairing-refinishing-mods-etc.275/
ALSO JamesHarrison, noremf indicates that many of the "citrus-cleaners" actually have little or NO effect on 'preserving' gun stocks . . . or any wood like the 'furniture-polishes' claim on TV. And a significant issue is IF ou ever want to do anything 'else' to that stock, the 'silicones' and much other stuff will 'contaminate' the wood grain and 'block' absorption of 'New Finish'.
YMMV ; JMO
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You mean for hunting in the rain? I have put wax under the action and barrel, and just wiped down the exposed parts. Now I don't bother - just take the thing apart back at camp, wipe it down, leave the metal parts out to dry near the wood stove, then wipe it all down with an oily rag and reassemble before hunting again the next morning.
There's zero need to wax an oiled wood stock, unless you want to make it shiny or buff out imperfections. Regular moisture / humidity / rain / etc. won't hurt it one bit.
Re: JamesHarrison, noremf indicates that many of the "citrus-cleaners" actually have little or NO effect on 'preserving' gun stocks . . . or any wood like the 'furniture-polishes' claim on TV. And a significant issue is IF ou ever want to do anything 'else' to that stock, the 'silicones' and much other stuff will 'contaminate' the wood grain and 'block' absorption of 'New Finish'.
I didn't say anything about preserving finishes; I said I use citrus cleaners for cleaning [oils, grunge, &c.], then use wax or other, depending on if the finish is an oil finish, polymer or varnish finish.
If you want to refinish a stock & anything you've used before stops adherence of your chosen new finish, then you haven't properly stripped the stock.
I didn't say anything about preserving finishes; I said I use citrus cleaners for cleaning [oils, grunge, &c.], then use wax or other, depending on if the finish is an oil finish, polymer or varnish finish.
If you want to refinish a stock & anything you've used before stops adherence of your chosen new finish, then you haven't properly stripped the stock.
- Location
- Steel Town
I use Renaissance wax on metal and wood. Fantastic stuff!
Why not under the stock line? I’ve always done this but very sparingly to avoid build up but is there something I’m missing? Genuinely curious.
