Glass for a thumper
- Thread starter AB3006
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Thanks man!
Here's a thread I posted on it... https://www.canadiangunnutz.com/for...-hole-again-with-the-9-3x62mm-mauser.2516239/
This comes down to budget. Can you do better than a Burris? Absolutely. Can you afford to upgrade? That’s up to you. Will the burris hold up? The 9.3 isn’t a huge cartridge, and it doesn’t have a quick recoil impulse, so you should be fine.
Leupold VariX 1.5x5x20 in low or medium Warne QD's.
Old but lots of eye relief.
Old but lots of eye relief.
I’m gonna head down there Friday and grab one. Haven’t supported them in some time now.
That's the thing. The scope doesn't care how hard the rifle hits you, as far as its concerned that's coasting to a stop. The big hit that a scope takes is accelerating from a standing start; which is why when a scope slips it inevitably slides forward. Muzzle brakes will sometimes change that when the pull me is stronger than the push me.
Burris makes a good scope, and over the years, I have not heard of many of their scopes failing as I have of other brands that some might think bring of lesser quality.
Any scope from a reputable maker in 1-4 to 3-9 range should work fine on the 9.3, as most won't see service in longer distance shooting/hunting. Some great scopes mentioned above.
Myself, I put a Kahles Helia 1.5-6x42 with the German #4 reticle on my LH Sako 85 Hunter, and it works great for me. It does have a 30mm tube, but I liked the excellent glass and the price was right. Just had to get the larger rings. I did mount it in the QR rings and bases, as the rifle does have open sights for redundancy. It is working great for me!
Complete package weighs 8 lbs 15 oz with a full magazine (5 rounds). This produces just over 30 ft. lbs of recoil in my set up, (which is definitely more than the average 30-06).
Recoil is manageable, even with the 285/286 gr bullets, but at this time I am shooting the Nosler 250 gr AB ammo as it is producing 0.674" groups @ 100 yards, compared to the 1.026" groups with the Norma 285 gr Alaskan ammo. And the moose taken with it so far didn't seem to notice the difference!
As mentioned in the thread above, to some, the 9.3's recoil is similar to the '06, while others find it definitely "more". Recoil is a subjective thing to the individual. And rifle weight and stock configuration will come into play for each individual, as we are also built differently, and this has an impact on how we perceive recoil. In the recoil calculator, the numbers are proven to be definitely higher for the 9.3.
That being said, having a scope with decent eye relief will help so you don't get bit.
Have fun with your Burris on your 9.3!
Any scope from a reputable maker in 1-4 to 3-9 range should work fine on the 9.3, as most won't see service in longer distance shooting/hunting. Some great scopes mentioned above.
Myself, I put a Kahles Helia 1.5-6x42 with the German #4 reticle on my LH Sako 85 Hunter, and it works great for me. It does have a 30mm tube, but I liked the excellent glass and the price was right. Just had to get the larger rings. I did mount it in the QR rings and bases, as the rifle does have open sights for redundancy. It is working great for me!
Complete package weighs 8 lbs 15 oz with a full magazine (5 rounds). This produces just over 30 ft. lbs of recoil in my set up, (which is definitely more than the average 30-06).
Recoil is manageable, even with the 285/286 gr bullets, but at this time I am shooting the Nosler 250 gr AB ammo as it is producing 0.674" groups @ 100 yards, compared to the 1.026" groups with the Norma 285 gr Alaskan ammo. And the moose taken with it so far didn't seem to notice the difference!
As mentioned in the thread above, to some, the 9.3's recoil is similar to the '06, while others find it definitely "more". Recoil is a subjective thing to the individual. And rifle weight and stock configuration will come into play for each individual, as we are also built differently, and this has an impact on how we perceive recoil. In the recoil calculator, the numbers are proven to be definitely higher for the 9.3.
That being said, having a scope with decent eye relief will help so you don't get bit.
Have fun with your Burris on your 9.3!
On my bigger boomers I use low powered leupold or steel Weaver, or a fixed 3 or 4x. Harder to break. I have on old steel 3x that has been on at least a half dozen over 40 cal rifles. Proper mounting is of vital importance on the hard kickers. - dan
9.3x62 is no slouch but isn’t really a hard kicker yet in my experience…I wouldn’t be too worried about the scope itself withstanding the recoil as far as reliability goes BUT….if the rifle seems hard kicking to you the most important consideration is going to be eye relief and a forgiving eye box (or whatever you want to call it, a scope that is easy to look through from various field positions without straining or struggling to feel lined up right).
That was just the thought that guided me... The older Burris Fullfield IV that I had on the Thuddy-oh-Six went on the 9.3 as it has a longer tube and could be mounted with regular medium height Burris rings - no finaggling with offset rings and so forth.
Howevs, the new Fullfield is fully 5/8" shorter in the tube department, and needed a tall offset ring to mount on a long action. Thus a question arises: while the end result will, of course, depend on cheek weld, the shooter's eyesight and so forth, what would you suggest as a minimum eye relief on a moderately thumpy rifle? I'm thinking a 30-06 with 165/180 gr hunting loads as well as the 9.3 firing 285s
BigUglyMan
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I'm not sure what's happened at Burris over the years, but some of those scopes look awfully short in the main tube. Short enough that I'm wondering if the ability to move it forward and back to adjust for proper eye relief would be effected. It's been a long time since I needed to buy a new scope, so my Burris scopes are all at least 20 years old, and they have been excellent over the years. But I'd have to see them in person before I recommended these new ones.
Long story short, fine a 2.8-8x Leupold, or an older Burris Signature 3-9x (or even a 2-7x Fullfield...the 9.3 doesn't need a ton of top end magnification). He'll, those old Burris scopes can probably be had pretty cheap on the EE. I might have to go over there and see.
Long story short, fine a 2.8-8x Leupold, or an older Burris Signature 3-9x (or even a 2-7x Fullfield...the 9.3 doesn't need a ton of top end magnification). He'll, those old Burris scopes can probably be had pretty cheap on the EE. I might have to go over there and see.
great scope size choice, in power range and compact size. have been in the need or want for a 1.5x or 2.5x setting in way more situations than anything over 10x
eye relief around 3" is fine, just don't creep it when shooting uphill from prone
Here’s a question for you fellas.
Iv mounted a lot of scopes and have used a handful of different mounts over the years, but I’m having issue with a couple .375’s.
In the past 4-5 years, iv broke 3 scopes, a vx3 and 2 vxiii’s. All 3 had the exact same problem, the reticle shifting 10-15 degrees. Both rifles use talley light weight mounts and torqued with a fat wrench.
Would this be a mounting issue or a scope issue?
Iv mounted a lot of scopes and have used a handful of different mounts over the years, but I’m having issue with a couple .375’s.
In the past 4-5 years, iv broke 3 scopes, a vx3 and 2 vxiii’s. All 3 had the exact same problem, the reticle shifting 10-15 degrees. Both rifles use talley light weight mounts and torqued with a fat wrench.
Would this be a mounting issue or a scope issue?
This^ Check the rings for a burr or uneven spots that create pinch points and uneven stresses. A 1" or 30mm hardened steel machining dimension rod would be helpful. Put the rod in each of the rings, and check if you can see light between the ring and the rod. If you can, the ring is misshapen/distorted or has an uneven spot - all of which can affect the tube differently, especially under the thump of the 375, and possibly the internals or seals of the scope as well. Check both rings separately, and together.yes....
maybe lay a lapping bar or 1" rod of sorts in the rings to try and see that they are in-line properly?
3x with the same symptom in the scope must be a record, did Hirsch offer any clue? bent or crushed tubes?
EDIT. Also, level the rifle using the rail or bases you have as your even point. Put on the rings at the same spacing as for the scope. Tighten them down, place the test bar in them and measure to see of it's level. If not, then you may have to engage in some shimmage or ring lapping.
Next, measure the actual diameter of your tube. Your "very near" (Vernier) calipers you use for reloading should be good, but a mic would be better. The tube should be exactly 1 inch or 30mm (depending on the variant. While I would trust the 30mm to be 30mm, the 1 inch might well be 25mm not 25.4, so the torque may affect it differently - you may be getting pinch points or eccentricity, or it may not be holding it tightly enough and the scope is accelerating with each thump.
Then, I would take and check the eccentricity of the problem tubes. Make a pencil mark on the top of the tube to clock your measurements. Measure diameter in the vertical direction and then at 90 degrees to that (horizontal). They should be within a thou or two, else your rings are likely distorting the shape of the tube, weakening it and possibly applying stress on the inside. The interior of the scope is sealed and under pressure with gas (N2 or argon). If you distort the tube enough, the seals may... unseal and let moisture inside.
Finally, I'd check the tube for high/low spots. Take two parallels, place them on a flat plane. Make sure the parallels are taller than the height of the turrets. Place the scope so that the tube rests on the parallels. Roll the scope slowly through 360 degrees. Look for uneven rolling or a jump. If there is, this should give you an indication that your rings are distorting the tube in some way. A surface plate and machinist's parallels would be best, but any kitchen counter and two identical bars of material will do.
Of course, if you have access to a machine shop and dial indicators, you can make all this more exact than this, but that is what I would do.
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