How to lube old ammo?
- Thread starter bigHUN
- Start date
Rag with Brasso.
I just noticed a parallel thread probably started about in a same hour.
I have a tumbler (with crushed nut shells) never thought about that one, for loaded ammo.
But cold in my garage, and polishing/lubing with a rug seem to me faster overall am can do in my mans cave.
I have a tumbler (with crushed nut shells) never thought about that one, for loaded ammo.
But cold in my garage, and polishing/lubing with a rug seem to me faster overall am can do in my mans cave.
Years ago I bought out an estate and there were 6 boxes of factory loaded 270 win that were about 20 years old or maybe more, the cases were very tanished, I ran them through my viberating tumbler with cruched walnut media, they came out just like new, worked like a hot dam.
Usually it is a no, no and not recommended to clean up already loaded ammo in vibratory cleaners as it will often turn the extruded/flake or ball smokeless powder into a very fine talc like powder which dramatically changes the way it burns and can even sometimes cause excessive pressure in some cases. Either way it will likely ruin or affect the consistent performance and burn rate and accuracy.
Only if you can prove otherwise!
I will admit a light polish should be fine in a tumbler or vibratory cleaner, but prolonged cleaning will alter the powder characteristics.
Have you ever noticed how walnut shells (which are a lot harder than most smokeless powders) turns to a fine dust in the bottom of your tumbler after a prolonged amount of use? I wonder why, don't you?
But you are free to follow whatever course of action you deem satisfactory.
I myself prefer to take my information from Hodgdon powder and RCBS, I hope they know enough to issue such statements -
https://rcbs.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/09/RCBS_87060_VCP_1LIM_Web.pdf
https://bulletin.accurateshooter.com/2008/09/why-you-should-not-tumble-clean-loaded-ammo/
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Good grief.
OP, if you want it clean, it's not a big deal to just make up 5 liters of cleaner.
If you've only got a couple of boxes, clean it in the kitchen sink, with your dish detergent.
As a cleaner, you can use HOT WATER and Dishwashing soap, or 50/50 mix of Vinegar/Water.
Just put it into a plastic bucket or whatever you have, cover it with fluid, and mix it around until it's clean.
You may need to soak it for an hour or so, depending on how bad the corrosion is.
Just dry it well afterwards, and it will be clean.
If you want it bright and shiny, then you will have to polish it.
As far as "LUBE" WHY? As long as the ammo is kept dry, it shouldn't corrode.
Usually, the green verdigris or rust is caused by chemicals in the packaging or container the ammo is stored in, as long as it's in a dry location.
OP, if you want it clean, it's not a big deal to just make up 5 liters of cleaner.
If you've only got a couple of boxes, clean it in the kitchen sink, with your dish detergent.
As a cleaner, you can use HOT WATER and Dishwashing soap, or 50/50 mix of Vinegar/Water.
Just put it into a plastic bucket or whatever you have, cover it with fluid, and mix it around until it's clean.
You may need to soak it for an hour or so, depending on how bad the corrosion is.
Just dry it well afterwards, and it will be clean.
If you want it bright and shiny, then you will have to polish it.
As far as "LUBE" WHY? As long as the ammo is kept dry, it shouldn't corrode.
Usually, the green verdigris or rust is caused by chemicals in the packaging or container the ammo is stored in, as long as it's in a dry location.
I don't have to do nothing. Go do some research or ask our local expert Ganderite. He has worked for powder manufacturers.
If you look at Ganderite's posts on this subject, it's not so much the kernels breaking down as it is the "graphite" coating on the kernels, which controls burn rate, being rubbed off during vibration.
It takes a lot of vibration to rub this stuff off, but it can be a serious issue.
It takes a lot of vibration to rub this stuff off, but it can be a serious issue.
