Stupid question about CORROSIVE AMMO

Alright, stupid question here. I've been reading several threads about cleaning VZ's and SKS's after using corrosive milsurp. Many of you reccomend using "CLP".

What the %$#^ is "CLP"? Is that a brand name, or an abbreviation there-of? I have a hard enought time getting service out of the kids at Canadian Tire when I know what I'm looking for, I hate to make vague requests of them.

Thanks in advance!

PS-somobody tell me quick, I have a case of milsurp due to arrive tomorrow.:D:ar15:
 
Alright, stupid question here. I've been reading several threads about cleaning VZ's and SKS's after using corrosive milsurp. Many of you reccomend using "CLP".

What the %$#^ is "CLP"? Is that a brand name, or an abbreviation there-of? I have a hard enought time getting service out of the kids at Canadian Tire when I know what I'm looking for, I hate to make vague requests of them.

Thanks in advance!

PS-somobody tell me quick, I have a case of milsurp due to arrive tomorrow.:D:ar15:

CLP is great, I use it, but it alone is not enough to clean a rifle after firing corrosive ammo. You should get a funnel and pour boiling water down the bbl ASAP after firing the rifle, then use CLP/Hoppes/etc as well, on the barrel and on the gas system.
 
CLP = Cleaner, Lubricant & Preservative. Breakfree is the civilian company and marketing name. CLP has Teflon in it and it is designed to slowly coat the rifle you clean with it in Teflon. Used in the Canadian forces since 1988. It's a good gun cleaner /oil / lubricant however I would not recommend using CLP alone to clean up after firing corrosive ammo.

You need to neutralize the corrosive salts in the barrel and contact points with the gases. Scroll down on this link: http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=256416

or

http://www.canadiangunnutz.com/forum/showthread.php?t=251408&highlight=Corrosive+Ammo

Regards

Peter
 
To the best of my knowledge, the ability to neutralize (or at least suspend) corrosive salts was one of the original military design criteria for CLP. I've tried only using CLP after shooting corrosive ammo and it worked 100%, no rust formed over a number of weeks and shooting sessions. I don't make a habit of it because a full splashdown with CLP is a hella lot more expensive than a kettle full of hot water and a squirt of dish soap.
 
.....and in another thread it was mentioned that you can buy CLP at Walmart.

CanAm (Canada Ammo . com who is a board sponsor) also mentioned he will have bulk CLP for sale in the near future.
 
I use G96 and windex!!! This combo works 100% for me. Apparently the windex removes all the salts left behind from corrosive ammo and it's amazing how clean it gets the parts! Then I spray everything down with G96 and back in the safe...so problems here....
 
another really great product you can use is H2O.
since the corrosive salts are water soluble, you can throw all the chemicals and bull#### you want at them, but the thing that works best (and is fairly cheap) is boiled ####ing water.

through the bore, on the gas touched parts, then dried and oiled.

why is this such an ongoing pile of B.s..

use water. its the only thing you need and its the thing that works the best.
 
Stupid?

Mind you, when it comes to cleaning and preservation of our firearms, there will never be a STUPID question. Even if the subject has been debated on an on, there will always be a newbie needing some good answers to the problem and this can raise new answers to the question.

But now, let's kill the dragon: corrosive ammo are only so due to the nature and chemical composition of their PRIMERS.
They contain some reactants, namely potassium chlorate and perchlorates which generate minute amounts of potassium and sodium chloride. These, mixed with the porous combustion residue, are very hygroscopic and they will absorb and retain ambient humidity. This salt brine in contact with your barrel's surface, will begin to corrode it immediately if the air is humid.

Now, because these salts are very water-soluble, they can be flushed very quickly from the metal just by a good drenching with very hot (boiling) water.
Hot is good because it augments the solubility of the salts AND heats the metal to promote quick evaporation of the remaining water. Regular cleaning and lubrication AFTER this step will insure the metal is protected.

The salts do NOT need to be neutralized by any chemical reaction.
Some say ammonia contained in Windex helps. Yes, it is true: it helps get any oily residue out that could protect salts from the water.
But remember that ammonia is also a strong alkaline corrosive. It reacts with almost any metal if left in contact long enough. It also dissolves copper, which is why you find it in copper-cutting solutions for cleaning barrels.

So, any way you do, FIRST flush these salts out then clean and oil that gun, that's all it needs.
Good luck!
PP.:)
 
PP, thank you for the fact bomb, great explanation!

I've been doing windex at the range, water at home, then cleaning the rifle like I have OCD. No problems yet and it's been very damp out here.

I never did get any CLP. After asking if they had CLP, and giving them a thorough description, the guys at the local Canadian Tire looked at me like I had a phalus growing out of my forehead. Yes, I asked in both official laguages. I really hate northern NB:bangHead:
 
CLEANING;
I was informed yesterday by one of our movie tecs that if you spray your weapon with Krown (40 the blue label) after firing you can leave it for days without worry, clean at your leasure.

They do fire blanks, which happen to be extremely corrosive, much more so than their "live" counterpart.

The spray cans can be purchased at any Krown car rustproofing outlet.... It works
John
 
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