Ruger #1 Safety in the way of ejecting shells

tkv000

tkv000

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Alberta, Canada
First and foremost, I did a search, didn't come up with anything, second, I knew about this issue before I acquired both my Ruger #1's, but though I could live with it. But its starting to annoy me.

Issue is, after firing, the safety is in the forward position, when I go to eject the shell, it usually (99% of the time, or better) comes flying back, hits the safety, and goes flying back into the chamber. Very annoying. I've read on the almighty Internet (so it has to be true right?) that one can shave a bit of the forward part of the safety that sticks up, and that will fix the problem. My question's are, is that what everyone's doing? or is there a better way to go about it? Does it need to be milled off with a machine? or is it filed off? Or better yet, is there an aftermarket solution that could be fitted?

Pictures for reference:

IMG_1686-1.jpg


IMG_1687-1.jpg


What should I do?

Thanks.

-Trev
 
There was an article in an old gun rag....they showed how to file down the top part of the safety, so the cases clear it.

Hope that gives you some help.
 
The front of the safety can be altered by shortening a little and by filing the contour down...

Many reloaders prefer to leave it as is and lighten the ejector spring so the case just stops and stays back for easy retrieval.
 
Guntech nailed it ... did the same to both of mine.
Front of safety can also be bent down a little to match the countour of the tang ... as is, it is slightly "rockered" .

The longer the cartridge, the greater the chance of the
safety catching the ejected shell.
 
beretta boy said:
Guntech naile it ... did the same to both of mine.
Front of safety can also be bent down a little to match the contour
of the tang ... as is, it is slightly "rockered" .
Click to expand...

I wondered about that, I think I'll see if I can bend it down ever so slightly, I like the brass to fly free and clear of the chamber in case a follow up shot is required, I reload, but if i loose a piece of brass now and then, its no big deal. Should I use a brass or plastic hammer to shape it? as to not mar the finish? (ie, take it out, and shape it on my anvil, but with something soft?)
 
“Many reloaders prefer to leave it as is and lighten the ejector spring so the case just stops and stays back for easy retrieval.”
Click to expand...

Like Dennis said, tune the ejector a bit and see if this helps. I like the empty case stopping on the safety and then it’s easy for me to save, but then I’m not hunting with mine. Usually I have to tune the ejector to get it to do this. Plus... my #1s and #3s are small varmint type cartridges. :cool:

If you crank up the tension on the ejector it may kick one of those big cases out and over the safety. ;)
 
Darren said:
Like Dennis said, tune the ejector a bit and see if this helps. I like the empty case stopping on the safety and then it’s easy for me to save, but then I’m not hunting with mine. Usually I have to tune the ejector to get it to do this. Plus... my #1s and #3s are small varmint type cartridges. :cool:

If you crank up the tension on the ejector it may kick one of those big cases out and over the safety. ;)
Click to expand...

Oh it chucks them back alright, it will leave marks in my snapcap from flying into the slider, I don't think tensions the issue, its just plain in the way.
 
I made this exact post a few months ago. As well as excellent advice like that given above, another poster said that he just got into the habit of giving the gun a slight twist (cant) as you go to eject and the casing will fall clear. I was going to use one of the above fixes but found with a little practice on my .338 WM it worked well enough and I still had the advantage of having the fired case stay when doing bench work.
 
I'm surprised there isn't enough market to warrant an aftermarket replacement, if ruger isn't willing to do so themselves, its funny someone hasn't stepped up to fix it for them.
 
I have 2 of 3 filed down on mine. Fairly simple process of removing from the stock and slipping the safety out - come to think of it, IIRC, there was a temp drift pin used somewhere, but it was not difficult.

The 375 chucks the empty with authority (was going to be my griz gun in BC) while the 270 clears the ramp easily. My 22-250 I have left the safety stock and turned down the ejector spring so that the ejected case does not hit the safety hard enough to bounce back into the chamber - but, I have no intention of ever shooting at anything that might fight back with this one, so speedy second shots are rarely important.

Ian
 
Pudelpointer said:
I have 2 of 3 filed down on mine. Fairly simple process of removing from the stock and slipping the safety out - come to think of it, IIRC, there was a temp drift pin used somewhere, but it was not difficult.

The 375 chucks the empty with authority (was going to be my griz gun in BC) while the 270 clears the ramp easily. My 22-250 I have left the safety stock and turned down the ejector spring so that the ejected case does not hit the safety hard enough to bounce back into the chamber - but, I have no intention of ever shooting at anything that might fight back with this one, so speedy second shots are rarely important.

Ian
Click to expand...

You don't happen to have, or are able to take a picture of what it looks like now could you?
 
No.1 Safety pics

Okay, will try and put pics in here.

First, unaltered safety
Unalteredsafety.jpg


Altered safety - notice that it has been shortened slightly as well - be carefull not to shorten too much or there will be a space / hole in front of the safety when it is set to "safe" - looks ugly.
Alteredsafety.jpg


Top view - not the nicest job on this one, a friend helped me and he is not nearly as much of a perfectionist as I am. My 270 was filed nicely and is rounded instead of angular - unfortunately I have this rifle in many pieces at the moment or I would have taken photos of it instead.
Alteredtopview.jpg
 
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