I was at a gun show a while ago and had some extra pirmers to sell, the buyer asked if they were new? I said yes and he took them, then the guy beside me joked and asked what I thought used primers would be worth? Is there any way to make used primers workable, I have some 14.5 x 114 and you have to make adapters for 50bmg primers to fit, if the old Russian primers can be rebuilt that would be interesting. Anybody know?
Reuseable Primers?
- Thread starter seba
- Start date
I hope the guy meant 'new' like in 'recently manufactured', as opposed to 'not new' (as in: 'sitting around my grandpappy's damp, mouldy basement since a little after the War'). Concern about bad storage conditions deteriorating old stock I'd understand.
While there may be ways to dismantle, re-pack, & re-use some primers, it'd mean being in possession of certain explosive substances such as lead styphnate, lead azide, some mercuric compounds, or the like. Not something I'd suggest.
Aside from the legalities, there are significant safety issues involved. The issue of re-using primers might just be one where it's best to 'bite-the-bullet' (please pardon any inadvertant pun) and spend the cash for commercially-manufactured ones. If you do try it, however, I'd really be interested in the results, providing you retain enough of your fingers to type us a response?
While there may be ways to dismantle, re-pack, & re-use some primers, it'd mean being in possession of certain explosive substances such as lead styphnate, lead azide, some mercuric compounds, or the like. Not something I'd suggest.
Aside from the legalities, there are significant safety issues involved. The issue of re-using primers might just be one where it's best to 'bite-the-bullet' (please pardon any inadvertant pun) and spend the cash for commercially-manufactured ones. If you do try it, however, I'd really be interested in the results, providing you retain enough of your fingers to type us a response?
blacksmithden
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
The short and straight forward answer is, no.
I don't know if it's exactly the same stuff. Probably not, but......if you want to see what it's like dealing with primer compounds, break apart a 22LR cartrige and dump out the powder. Now, take a paperclip and scratch around the rim on the inside of the case. NO, it will not blow it across the room. NO, it will not blow your fingers off. HOWEVER, make sure the case is pointing away from your eyes. If you don't want to try it, I'll tell you. With a fairly gentle scratching, it'll go off with a loud pop. Primer compound is not something you want to go messing around with in any kind of quantity without knowing EXACTLY what you're doing.
I don't know if it's exactly the same stuff. Probably not, but......if you want to see what it's like dealing with primer compounds, break apart a 22LR cartrige and dump out the powder. Now, take a paperclip and scratch around the rim on the inside of the case. NO, it will not blow it across the room. NO, it will not blow your fingers off. HOWEVER, make sure the case is pointing away from your eyes. If you don't want to try it, I'll tell you. With a fairly gentle scratching, it'll go off with a loud pop. Primer compound is not something you want to go messing around with in any kind of quantity without knowing EXACTLY what you're doing.
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maple_leaf_eh
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
Put on your body armour, heavy sleeves, eyeprotection and gloves. The idea of a primer is that it fires under sharp pressure. Poking new compound into the old cup looks like a recipe for disaster to me.
Sounds awesome, but just never seemed to catch on. Most recent example I can think of was the the Remington EtronX type primer (P/N: XEL22610, 9 1/2 size Large Rifle (ETRONX™ Electric) primers ) used in their EtronX line of rifles; check out:
http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/special_runs/past_special_runs/model_700_etronX.asp
As for the instructions on re-using primers, I may have the same old book as Snow Dog and may have discovered in younger, sillier years, that the match-head mix is pretty sensitive when working with dry, and is not always very fast or reliable when used in a primer.
Priming compounds don't just contain various explosives & stabilisers, many contain materials to increase sensitivity. .22 RF priming compounds already mentioned are a good example. That's why the pro's only handle them wet. When dry they can be dangerous--they're supposed to be in order to work? Please take it from a fat old guy who barely learned enough to get this old with most parts intact, & don't mess with sensitive priming explosives. Troubles comes your way often enough un-asked for, why ask? $0.02 worth delivered...
http://www.remington.com/products/firearms/special_runs/past_special_runs/model_700_etronX.asp
As for the instructions on re-using primers, I may have the same old book as Snow Dog and may have discovered in younger, sillier years, that the match-head mix is pretty sensitive when working with dry, and is not always very fast or reliable when used in a primer.
Priming compounds don't just contain various explosives & stabilisers, many contain materials to increase sensitivity. .22 RF priming compounds already mentioned are a good example. That's why the pro's only handle them wet. When dry they can be dangerous--they're supposed to be in order to work? Please take it from a fat old guy who barely learned enough to get this old with most parts intact, & don't mess with sensitive priming explosives. Troubles comes your way often enough un-asked for, why ask? $0.02 worth delivered...
Match heads DO work. They lack proper power though, and you get loads of hangfires. Used to do this when I was a kid scrounging for ammo, and trying to make my own. I'm surprised I have all my fingers still. If you mix the powdered match heads with Rubbing alcohol, it makes it so it's no longer friction sensitive.
I read an article by Epps (I think?) on this. It involved following the basic instructions illustrated above but you had to add a "pinch" of black powder for more positive ignition. I can't foresee any need for this unless ALL components and ammunition are banned or depleted (end of the world/SHTF... blahblahblah) and we have to start making our own black powder along with casting our own bullets.
blacksmithden
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
I have to agree with you. Might be something interesting to try just to see if it'll work. I'll get to it when I have the spare time. Ought to be about January 2024 LOL!!!
I have a neat little tool that was made in the days of steel soda pop cans. It actually works quite well.
First you cut the top and bottom off the can. Then cut the can in half and press out flat.
The tool comes in two pieces. The large side is serrated and female. The small side which is male, is flat on top, with rounded edges.
You place the anvil on a hard flat surface and position the flattened can on top of it. Then take the serrated cutter and position it over the anvil, not as hard as it sounds.
Take a soft mallet and give it a whack. Presto one primer cap.
A caveat here. This tool was actually designed to make percussion caps. It works very well for makeing primers as long as you have a supply of anvils, as mentioned in a previous post.
The gunpowder/match head paste was the suggested priming mixture as well.
First you cut the top and bottom off the can. Then cut the can in half and press out flat.
The tool comes in two pieces. The large side is serrated and female. The small side which is male, is flat on top, with rounded edges.
You place the anvil on a hard flat surface and position the flattened can on top of it. Then take the serrated cutter and position it over the anvil, not as hard as it sounds.
Take a soft mallet and give it a whack. Presto one primer cap.
A caveat here. This tool was actually designed to make percussion caps. It works very well for makeing primers as long as you have a supply of anvils, as mentioned in a previous post.
The gunpowder/match head paste was the suggested priming mixture as well.
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