Ladder Test.......What Next!!??

.308--win

.308--win

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Got out to the range today, had some rounds made up for a ladder test for 3 different powders. I was limited on bullets, so could only do 10 rounds per powder, These are all cold barrel shots, used sandbags for a rest. getting the thing bedded and all that fancy stuff is not an option, so given the targets that I have shown, which powder would you go with? Thanks for any input/info!!

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Anything you need to know about the shots/target let me know! Thanks again!!

Perry
 
.308--win said:
Anything you need to know about the shots/target let me know! Thanks again!!

Perry
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You shouldn't try to do nuclear physics on the back of a cigarette pack. Likewise, use different target to unclutter your patterns. There may be something there that your Bic pen lines and numbers isn't showing.
 
From what I can see form your photos it looks like the H4350 works. Its the only one that I can see where you have a good group (Shots 8,9 and 10).
All the others are all over the place so I would try and redo them.

This is my conclusion from reading about the ladder load development. I have not made up my own load nor have I tried this method (but I intend to) so I might be wrong.

Also should this method not be used at a longer range like 300 yards?
 
Scharfschütze said:
From what I can see form your photos it looks like the H4350 works. Its the only one that I can see where you have a good group (Shots 8,9 and 10).
All the others are all over the place so I would try and redo them.

Also should this method not be used at a longer range like 300 yards?
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Thats what I was thinking...with the H4350 shots 7,8,9 and 10 are ~ a .75 inch group. With the Varget only shots 5 & 6 touch, and with the H4895 shots 6 & 7 are close. I also read that 300yrds was good for the ladder test, but dont have that long of a range!!

Perry
 
Got this info from another person!!!!

There has been somediscussion on the board recently about this. There are 2 methods or variations on the same theme. The basic theory is that with the same brass, primer, powder type, and bullet seated to the same lengt. You then load one round at the starting charge (gotten from a reloading manual) then increase the charge .2-.5 grains for the next round and continue loading one round at each wieght until you hit the recommended max charge. This should give you anywhere from 9-15 rounds each with a slightly higher charge.

Next you fire those rounds slowly (so your barrel doesn't heat up) at the same point of aim. 100 yrds is acceptable but I hear 2-300 is preferred by alot of people. For this to work you MUST record the shot placement for each round on the target. When you are done, in theory you will have 2 maybe even three "groups" on the target. For instance shot 5,7, and 9 group tightly with 7 in the middle of the group. This would mean that round sevens powder charge was optimum for the rifles harmonics not necessarly the fastest or most effecient.

Then load 3-5 more at that same charge and fire for an actual group...theory says it would be the best out of your gun
 
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Wow! I run an electronic RCBS powder dispensor/scale plus a chrony and can literaly walk out the front door to my 100 yard bench and that seems like one freekin incredible amount of messing around to achieve something that may or may not be of any value at the end of the session.

Wouldnt just one pulled shot wreck any meaningful data that could be gleaned from the entire string?

Then what? Start all over again?

Not saying anyone who does this is out in left field but I want to learn more about the entire idea and what results have been.
Is it actually worth doing in some cases?:eek:
 
DOUGLAS D said:
Wow! I run an electronic RCBS powder dispensor/scale plus a chrony and can literaly walk out the front door to my 100 yard bench and that seems like one freekin incredible amount of messing around to achieve something that may or may not be of any value at the end of the session.

Wouldnt just one pulled shot wreck any meaningful data that could be gleaned from the entire string?

Then what? Start all over again?
:
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If you pull a shot, mark it down and re shoot that load.
 
.308--win said:
getting the thing bedded and all that fancy stuff is not an option
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Why is it not an option?


If I'm going to keep a rifle and am serious about good groups with it, a bedding and a trigger job gets done before any load development whatsoever. I recommend it as it can take out alot of guesswork. Right now you don't know if the problem is rifle or the load.


.
 
SuperCub said:
Why is it not an option?


If I'm going to keep a rifle and am serious about good groups with it, a bedding and a trigger job gets done before any load development whatsoever. I recommend it as it can take out alot of guesswork. Right now you don't know if the problem is rifle or the load.


.
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Simple economics....not able to afford to just go do a bunch of smith work, that may or may not work......had my 308 bedded and for what difference it actually made, it wasn't worth the cost! Also alittle worried about shagging up the gun if I try to do it myself. If I were a bench rest shooter, then I would do it no problem.

Perry
 
.308--win said:
Simple economics....not able to afford to just go do a bunch of smith work, that may or may not work......had my 308 bedded and for what difference it actually made, it wasn't worth the cost! Also alittle worried about shagging up the gun if I try to do it myself. If I were a bench rest shooter, then I would do it no problem.

Perry
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Rifle bedding can easily be a DIY job for not alot of cash. There's tons of info on the net to learn from.

Load testing w/o knowing if bedding is a problem is not cheap, which goes back to your "simple economics".

.
 
Was it very windy? Ignoring the X values, there are some good strings.
 
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