Reloading Pistol...Do you apply case lube?

Zeb

Zeb

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Background Info:

Newbie reloader, Dillon XL650, 9mm & 40 S&W. 1F indoor range brass. Using Dillon & Lee FCD carbide dies.

Problem:

No matter how smooth I work the press, I get resistance, which causes a small amount of powder to jump out of the case as the shell plate rotates.

My Questions:

Would case lube make things run smoother?

Is one brand/type of case lube better than others?

What is the easiest way to apply case lube to a bulk amount of freshly tumbled pistol brass?

If the lube gets inside the case, will that round become a dud? (will the lube prevent powder burn?)


Thanks in advance.
 
Simple Question Simple Answer

One Shot Case Lube

1. Take your brass put in old box
2. Spray One Shot Case lube and mix box at same time.
3. Add brass to machine's brass area... (i use lee pro 1000)
4. shoot out the rounds
 
Levi Garrett said:
use it anyway , helps the brass last longer. every 10 cases or so, or when you notice resistance. a q tip inside the case mouth also every so often to lube the ball.
Click to expand...

Applying lube inside the case is not a good idea. It will compromise the powder and is pointless for straight wall cartidges.
 
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B said:
Applying lube inside the case is not a good idea. It will compromise the powder and is pointless for straight wall cartidges.
Click to expand...

Some lubes... One shot I believe is one of 'em advertise that they do not affect powder/primers...

Give it a try...
 
GSoD said:
Maybe a sturdier bench or something to stop the jump?
Click to expand...
A good idea, if doable. I had some problems with my first bench flexing and jumping at the slightest resistance. Those problems went away with my monster NRMA bench.

Personally, it never occurred to me to lube straight-walled brass, even the tapered 9mm Luger. The only cases I absolutely need to lube are .357Sig, for obvious reasons. I would recommend the wax-based Lee case lubricant. Cheap, easy to apply and doesn't alter powder burn.
 
Using carbide dies and a Dillon 550B, I have never lubed for 9mm and never had a single problem. If the powder is jumping around in the case too much, you need to place your reloading machine on a sturdier surface, sounds like its jumping around too much.
 
I have a 650XL press and I use Dillon case lube. It makes the press run much smoother. Never had an issue with powder whatsoever. As for your shellplate, just tighten your shellplate screw a little notch, it will add some resistance to it and dampen the rotation.
 
I use Dillon caselube when loading .45acp and 9mm, its not required but it makes everything much smoother.

I have my 650 setup for .45acp and I just spray the cases right inside the hopper, for 9mm I use a SDB and I just dump the brass into a cardboard tray and spray it then shake it all around.

I have never had a problem with the lubed cases after loading, mostly because I tumble them for a short time to take off the excess lube.
 
Like a couple other people, I use a light spray into my bucket of brass and give it a shake. No, it is not needed and most of the time I don't bother or forget to do it, but it just makes everything run much smoother.
 
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I have the same problem
The problem with the jumping powder happens with the indexing. As it indexes the case is brought to the next stage with some amount of force and is quickly decelerated, third law of Newton has it that the powder wants to keep on going but is stopped.

Unless it's excessive, I don't mind it
 
Thanks to everyone who replied.

I just want to confirm.....If some of the One Shot spray lube gets inside the brass, the primer & powder will still function as per normal ?

Also, what is an SBD. A couple of replies mentioned it.
 
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