Load Development for Precision/Match Rifles

rpollock

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This thread is in the context of people developing loads for precision work, be it varmints or match shooting. The 270 win deer rifle is something else all together different.

The reality is, there isn't much in the way of shortcuts in load testing. I wish there was, but I haven't seen any worth noting.The proof is in the pudding (target) so to speak. There is no black magic. This is what works for me and others I shoot with.

1. Pick a proven bullet. Use what works for the shooters around you. If you want to see average groups in the .5 moa range or less, you have to use the best bullet you can find for your application. This rules out anything like bulk fmj or soft point bullets. At a minimum, Sierra, Berger, Lapua are good places to start, custom bullets if you can get them. Load it in or off the rifling, not just barely touching. Probably off the rifling if you expect to have to extract a live round.

2. Quality well prepped brass is a must. If you can't shoot Lapua, then you will have to use heavily culled and prepped brass.

3. Shoot over at least 1 wind flag at about 20 yds, or a ribbon on a stick (cuts 25%-50% of your group size for a few bucks). Only shoot when the flag is pointing the same direction. This will absolutely cut group size. Yes it looks silly, but once you start pounding them in the same hole it will be worth it. Forget any notion of wind bucking, all bullets get moved by wind, even at 100 yds. Load development without flags is almost worthless.

4. Pick a proven powder for the cartridge (don't re-invent the wheel here) and then shoot a few 5 shot groups.

5. Take note of the shape of the groups. If you get a lot of 5 shot groups that are in the shape of 2+3 then consider the wind, you are likely shooting in 2 different conditions. If you get a lot of 4+1 (vertically) then look at gun handling or changing the seating depth. If you get a caterpillar shaped group (horizontal) then it is for sure wind, if it is more vertical, then adjust the powder charge.

6. Be honest with yourself. Keep records. If the rifle only averages .75 moa, but you have 1 lucky group at .25 moa, you do not have a .25 moa rifle. Making excuses such as: "when I do my part" will not help you while looking for the perfect load. Not recognizing the rifles true ability can lead you down a path of endless load development.

7. Accept that for the most part infinite tweaking of loads or bullets or primers does very little past a certain point. Speaking for BR shooters, you know if you have a winner in 75-100 rds of load development. Other disciplines will differ. If you are firing in excess of 200-300 rds in load development, I can assure you the rifle is already at the performance limit.

8. If you want to start tracking things like ES and SD great, but that won't replace what the target says.

9. Load concentric ammo. Wobbly ammo does not shoot straight. Use whatever dies you need to buy to sort this out. You are looking for .001" - .002" of runout on a loaded round, measured on the neck and on the bullet. Less runout is better.

For what it is worth.
Rick
 
Great info and suggestions.

1. Pick a proven bullet..... Load it in or off the rifling, not just barely touching. Probably off the rifling if you expect to have to extract a live round.

Why "In or off..." and not just touching?
And if I'm going to load 'off', how far is a good starting point?
 
Great info and suggestions.



Why "In or off..." and not just touching?
And if I'm going to load 'off', how far is a good starting point?

Simply because of differences in bullet ogive, they can vary between individual bullets up to a few thou, Just touching the lands with one bullet may put the next bullet one or two thou into the lands and the one after a thou or two off the lands and that can mess with your groups so go into the lands at least 5 thou or stay out 5 thou as a rule of thumb. Custom bullets should all be produced off of the same die and are near as identical one to another as your going to get. Store bought bullets come of multiple dies, mass produced, you may have bullets manufactured from 10 different dies in the same box, hence they can vary in ogive shape and overall length several thou.
 
Great info and suggestions.



Why "In or off..." and not just touching?
And if I'm going to load 'off', how far is a good starting point?

In my opinion it is actually very difficult to measure the jam or engagement of the lands down to the .001". In reality once you feel the bullet just engaging the lands you are probably already a few thou into them. The other problem is throat erosion. You would be constantly chasing the seating depth if you tried to always be just "on the rifling". There was a time in BR when people used almost no neck tension and allowed the rifling to do the final seat of the bullet, but I am not aware of anyone doing this now.

As to seating off the rifling, I am not aware of a good rule of thumb. If you can load straight ammo you can seat farther off. Use a neck die or shoulder bump die, leave the brass body alone in sizing. Seat the bullet dead nuts straight and the jump can be farther than with crooked ammo. I would have to have a pretty good reason to seat much more than .030 off the rifling, maybe mag length issues?

For field guns like varmint rifles I would leave at least a .010 jump to allow for errors in measurement and to allow withdrawing a loaded round and not pull the bullet.
 
Rick hit

the nail on the head in regards to load development. He has a lot more experience in shooting BR and load development than I have.

The biggest thing that gets me in regards to accuracy is people trying to reinvent the wheel. No matter what your level of shooting ability is if you want the BEST in regards to accuracy stick with the tried and true.

Oscar has some good info. The phrase just touching the lands is in reality called NO MAN'S LAND. You do not know if you are on or off. Bullets unless they are CUSTOM MADE are close but not close enough. They will be okay for just a hunting rifle but if looking to ring out the best close is NOT close enough.

I feel one is best to possibly know what CLOSE to just touching the lands figure is. A good comparator is required for this. Tip to base of a loaded round is NOT good enough. When you know this figure then one can seat a bullet 10 thou out and greater or 10 thou in and greater with a little more confidence.

When load developing it will show in short order jumping 10 thou at a time if it is going to work for you. You must have confidence in your shooting technique and bench setup and manners to know for sure.

CBY
 
Rick, what are your thoughts on neck tension?

If you are going to seat deep into the rifling then you will need good neck tension, probably about .002 of "grip" on the bullet, otherwise the rifling may overcome the neck tension and re-seat the bullet.

Good rule of thumb is to use enough grip for the job, but not so much as to compromise the seating of the bullet. ie you shouldn't have to force the bullet so much that your are deforming the ogive or tip of the bullet with the seater stem, or causing the bullet to get cocked in the neck.

If you don't have to transport your ammo much, and it won't see a lot of vibration you can use less tension. If I was going to use light neck tension and travel a lot with loaded ammo I would check the overall length periodically to make sure the bullets hadn't slumped in the cases.

Use that concentricity (runout) gauge to verify you are loading straight ammo whenever you change bushing size. The RCBS one is reasonably priced and gets the job done.

The amount of grip on the bullet doesn't seem to have much effect on accuracy. It is more a practical consideration relating to intended use and whether or not you seat in the rifling.
 
3. Shoot over at least 1 wind flag at about 20 yds, or a ribbon on a stick (cuts 25%-50% of your group size for a few bucks). Only shoot when the flag is pointing the same direction. This will absolutely cut group size. Yes it looks silly, but once you start pounding them in the same hole it will be worth it. Forget any notion of wind bucking, all bullets get moved by wind, even at 100 yds. Load development without flags is almost worthless.

Hi there,

I want to make sure I understand the above, because I've almost got all my reloading equipment in place (recently found supplier for some remaining parts) and have been using only factory match to date. The point you're trying to get across is that the wind flag/ribbon should just be at about the same angle between shots so that your conditions are identical and group size is mainly a result of load, right?

Any seating tips for those using a magazine (such as myself :))?

Thank you
 
Hi there,

I want to make sure I understand the above, because I've almost got all my reloading equipment in place (recently found supplier for some remaining parts) and have been using only factory match to date. The point you're trying to get across is that the wind flag/ribbon should just be at about the same angle between shots so that your conditions are identical and group size is mainly a result of load, right?

Any seating tips for those using a magazine (such as myself :))?

Thank you

Regarding the flags, you read it correctly. You will almost never get identical conditions, but we can minimize the effects of the wind by trying our best to read it. Seems goofy, but once you shoot over flags in load development you will never go back to guessing what the wind is doing.

Using a mag, means you have to load the straightest ammo you can. The reason factory match is preferred in a lot of cases, is that it is harder to load straight ammo than most realize. You can easily equal the velocity and use the same bullet as the factory, but the trick is can you get the same runout on the bullet as the factory? The answer is yes, but it will take some screwing around with dies and technique to get there.
 
Using a mag, means you have to load the straightest ammo you can. The reason factory match is preferred in a lot of cases, is that it is harder to load straight ammo than most realize. You can easily equal the velocity and use the same bullet as the factory, but the trick is can you get the same runout on the bullet as the factory? The answer is yes, but it will take some screwing around with dies and technique to get there.

That being the case, is there anything runout-related I should be concerned about with the Redding competition match die set??
 
That being the case, is there anything runout-related I should be concerned about with the Redding competition match die set??

Regarding the die set, probably not, but every once in a while a bad die slips through the MFG qc controls. It never hurts to measure runout at every step of the sizing process. To verify the sizing die is good, measure the runout of a fired case on the body and the neck, then size it, and see if the runout gets worse. Hopefully it doesn't. This is not required for every round, just a periodic check to may sure everything is as it should be.

Of course if the fired case comes out of the rifle with significant runout (much more than .002 or .003 becomes concerning), then you have other problems likely related to the chamber or the boltface or the quality of the brass.

Rick
 
Any easy way to do this, or must I purchase yet another overpriced contraption? :D

Thanks Rick

Well, rolling it across a table you will be able to visually spot a gross runout problem, but beyond that an indicator will be required.

A couple of v shaped blocks to hold the case and a dial indicator will do it. Not having any fabricating skills of my own, I am dependant on vendors of overpriced mechanical contraptions!
 
When I had my barrell built and it was cut off to length I had the stub made into a gauge to tell me how long i was loading my rounds.

The one in the pic is a bad round and has too much space around it, they,re usually longer and have almost no space around the bullet.

This has helped me to get my groups even tighter on the BR.

Mike

Bulletspacepic002.jpg


Bulletspacepic001.jpg


Bulletspacepic003.jpg
 
Chamber stub is a great idea. Gives you a starting point for measuring jam. Once you get a few hundred rounds down the barrel you will have to seat farther out to chase the jam. So to speak.

Works for measuring shoulder bump as well. Probably the best way actually.
 
In regards to

barrel stubs I love the one Guntech did for my 6PPC.

He used the stub that was left from the barrel and ran the reamer all the way into it to cut a full blown chamber. My stub is long in that it measures 2.607"

When a fired piece of brass is inserted into the stub it will stick out above the stub. I used that to help adjust my sizing die down when it was first set up. As long as the sized brass is below the end of the stub I know it will chamber easily.

What I like about the stub now is it is real easy to tell how much jam you will have with your bullets. Yes you will have to chase your lands and grooves but it still gives a pretty good indicator.

The stub measures 2.607" if a loaded round inserted in the stub measures 2.627" you should have 20 thou jam when the bolt is closed. It does not help measuring jump but nothing a few notes and a bullet comparator cannot help with.

Ideally if you are hell bent on a caliber like I am the 6BR and the 6PPC as 2 of the BEST cartridges in the accuracy department, and always want to have one, get your own reamer and a custom die for reloading. Once you have a setup like that you will never go back.
 
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Rick, every point you made was good. My favourite:

6. Be honest with yourself. Keep records. If the rifle only averages .75 moa, but you have 1 lucky group at .25 moa, you do not have a .25 moa rifle. Making excuses such as: "when I do my part" will not help you while looking for the perfect load. Not recognizing the rifles true ability can lead you down a path of endless load development.
 
Mr. Pollock,

Any specific tips for the .308 Win. that you can offer?? It'd be appreciated, since my reloading kit is almost complete, just missing a Chargemaster & a 3-way cutter which are coming in tomorrow.
 
This is a great post. One thing I've learned lately is to verify your tools- dies especially. I've got a Redding Competition seater that is spitting out more runout than I'm happy with. Others that I've got are great. As was said earlier, everybody has the odd bad one slip through.

The other thing I've learned very recently is make sure you arn't the problem when it cvomes to wringing out the max accuracy of whatever you are shooting. I just had a mishap that forced me to switch the rings mounting my scope. The new ones were about 3/16" lower, which gave me a better head position on the stock. Annoying vertical fliers that I had been blaming on my loads went away.
 
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