Sly Old Fox
CGN frequent flyer
- Location
- In lalaland, that is Ottawa.
[Please note that with the TS 200 peep kit, an explanation is given how to remove the as issued rear sight. I had a very tough time getting it out and could not install the piece of metal to cover the opening where the gas piston extension and spring are visible. They even supply a small pin to hold the cover in place.]
This is further to the last post that I made in this forum in which I posted the 200 yds 5 shot with my TS 200 peep and thinner replacement front sight.
The image below is the TS 200 installed and showing the lock washer under the bolt. It is a heavy, split washer, not the serrated one that I mentioned in the earlier post. When you are first installing the sight, put the lock washer on and use a lot of torque on the cross bolt as it goes into the nut. I found that this is vital! (Sorry for blurred image.)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/d31b0ddb.jpg
Below is the sight from the rear showing the 4 cap screws which must barely touch the rear of the bolt cover and which must have Loc-Tite Blue applied to ensure they stay put. But, ONLY add the Loc-Tite after the procedure that I describe in the para below.
Here is a tip. The instructions that come with the sight make it very clear that each screw must have a slight clearance under it. This was really tough to achieve, I used a narrow strip of paper, about 1/8" wide, to ensure that I had the clearance for each screw. Also I adjusted the screws so they were turned in to the same depth while still maintaing the clearance. When I was satisfied, I then applied the L-T to each screw, one at a time in rotation with the other 3 set in place.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/b0d04e56.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_b0d04e56.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Below is the left side of the sight showing the nut with the cap screw going through the nut and stopping at the X bolt. Go up to the instructions above where I emphasize that the X bolt must be very tight into the nut BEFORE you insert the cap screw. Only when you are certain that the X bolt is well tightened into the nut do you put the small cap screw in with the L-T!
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/8bc36e80.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_8bc36e80.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
This below was as tough a close up as I have ever attempted with my old Nikon Cool Pix 4500. It is an image looking through the peep with the thin front sight. Because of certain constraints, I could not mount the rifle solidly nor the camera.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/30ff21f1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_30ff21f1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Below is the TS 200 tool for adjusting the peep. The two studs at 2 o'clock fit into the 2 holes on the right side of the peep. Turning the tool clockwise moves the sight right and thus the impact on target right.
The G shaped edge of the tool at 9 o'clock is used to to change the elevation and hooks into the flat nut though which the peep post passes.
Turning this nut clockwise raises the elevation. This part of the tool, I did not try to duplicate as I had made the very crude copper front sight tool in the last image.. However, I found that height adjustment of the front sight is necessary in conjunction with the adjustment on the peep. The front sight must be high enough to show up well when looking through the peep. The line-of-sight through the peep must clear the base of the open sight.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/4c73d5fd.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_4c73d5fd.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Having the TS 200 peep and no sight tool after finding that a loaded round would not in my hands at least, turn the dial, I used my metal working skills
to fabricate the windage a adjustment tool. I hacked out an appropriate sized piece of copper, about 1/16", and cleaned off both sides for soldering. I then used two 1" finishing nails, bent the heads over and drilled 2 holes through the copper. I dropped the bent nails through the copper and put ample solder to hold them both in place. I turned the piece over and also applied solder to the nail heads. I then gradually ground down the nails until they were just long enough to fit in the sight.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/1b5f2aa5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_1b5f2aa5.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/cd176c28.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_cd176c28.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
The above tool for me works better than the TS tool shown in the first image and elevevation can be adjusted without the TS tool.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/4c1c8b70.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_4c1c8b70.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
The above image is the very precisely made front sight wrench, please take note of the careful work on this tool! But it works. (The spring clip is not part of the tool.)
Now that winter is well upon us here in Ottawa, I am anxious to get out and try the rifle at 200 yds/metres. I am considering using some JB Weld and very carefully trying to "bed" the action forward where the lam stock forward end fits into the U shaped cup underneath the barrel. As for the area under where the barrel joins the action, near the bolt, I'm unsure. Lastly, at the rear of the action, it looks to me that the major recoil is taken up by the perpendicular steel piece that projects downward from the action slightly forward of where the "take-down lever" goes through receiver cover.
I would appreciate any posts which can clarify the bedding which I hope to do this winter so that when spring comes, I'm ready to go.
This is further to the last post that I made in this forum in which I posted the 200 yds 5 shot with my TS 200 peep and thinner replacement front sight.
The image below is the TS 200 installed and showing the lock washer under the bolt. It is a heavy, split washer, not the serrated one that I mentioned in the earlier post. When you are first installing the sight, put the lock washer on and use a lot of torque on the cross bolt as it goes into the nut. I found that this is vital! (Sorry for blurred image.)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/d31b0ddb.jpg
Below is the sight from the rear showing the 4 cap screws which must barely touch the rear of the bolt cover and which must have Loc-Tite Blue applied to ensure they stay put. But, ONLY add the Loc-Tite after the procedure that I describe in the para below.
Here is a tip. The instructions that come with the sight make it very clear that each screw must have a slight clearance under it. This was really tough to achieve, I used a narrow strip of paper, about 1/8" wide, to ensure that I had the clearance for each screw. Also I adjusted the screws so they were turned in to the same depth while still maintaing the clearance. When I was satisfied, I then applied the L-T to each screw, one at a time in rotation with the other 3 set in place.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/b0d04e56.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_b0d04e56.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Below is the left side of the sight showing the nut with the cap screw going through the nut and stopping at the X bolt. Go up to the instructions above where I emphasize that the X bolt must be very tight into the nut BEFORE you insert the cap screw. Only when you are certain that the X bolt is well tightened into the nut do you put the small cap screw in with the L-T!
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/8bc36e80.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_8bc36e80.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
This below was as tough a close up as I have ever attempted with my old Nikon Cool Pix 4500. It is an image looking through the peep with the thin front sight. Because of certain constraints, I could not mount the rifle solidly nor the camera.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/30ff21f1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_30ff21f1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Below is the TS 200 tool for adjusting the peep. The two studs at 2 o'clock fit into the 2 holes on the right side of the peep. Turning the tool clockwise moves the sight right and thus the impact on target right.
The G shaped edge of the tool at 9 o'clock is used to to change the elevation and hooks into the flat nut though which the peep post passes.
Turning this nut clockwise raises the elevation. This part of the tool, I did not try to duplicate as I had made the very crude copper front sight tool in the last image.. However, I found that height adjustment of the front sight is necessary in conjunction with the adjustment on the peep. The front sight must be high enough to show up well when looking through the peep. The line-of-sight through the peep must clear the base of the open sight.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/4c73d5fd.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_4c73d5fd.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
Having the TS 200 peep and no sight tool after finding that a loaded round would not in my hands at least, turn the dial, I used my metal working skills
to fabricate the windage a adjustment tool. I hacked out an appropriate sized piece of copper, about 1/16", and cleaned off both sides for soldering. I then used two 1" finishing nails, bent the heads over and drilled 2 holes through the copper. I dropped the bent nails through the copper and put ample solder to hold them both in place. I turned the piece over and also applied solder to the nail heads. I then gradually ground down the nails until they were just long enough to fit in the sight. <a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/1b5f2aa5.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_1b5f2aa5.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/cd176c28.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_cd176c28.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
The above tool for me works better than the TS tool shown in the first image and elevevation can be adjusted without the TS tool.
<a href="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/4c1c8b70.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v605/sparseoldsalt/th_4c1c8b70.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" ></a>
The above image is the very precisely
made front sight wrench, please take note of the careful work on this tool! But it works. (The spring clip is not part of the tool.)Now that winter is well upon us here in Ottawa, I am anxious to get out and try the rifle at 200 yds/metres. I am considering using some JB Weld and very carefully trying to "bed" the action forward where the lam stock forward end fits into the U shaped cup underneath the barrel. As for the area under where the barrel joins the action, near the bolt, I'm unsure. Lastly, at the rear of the action, it looks to me that the major recoil is taken up by the perpendicular steel piece that projects downward from the action slightly forward of where the "take-down lever" goes through receiver cover.
I would appreciate any posts which can clarify the bedding which I hope to do this winter so that when spring comes, I'm ready to go.
Last edited:
and I told them that at the price they are charging for the sight, they should be supplying the key. They did not agree.