Who has the brightest scope for the money?

What others said - other considerations include contrast & resolution - it can be very bright but you may not get a satisfactory image to use eg see all the antlers/or the "v" bull if the scope lacks resolution and contrast. Swarovski had very strong UV filtration built in to their scopes - it had an odd "yellow" cast BUT it sharpened up images on overcast days very well and the apparent view was better than most other scopes. No good for bird watching but GREAT for hunting. More lens elements in the optical path will reduce light - most variables have more lens elements in the optical path. As already said new coatings are incredible and offset this somewhat. However if the external elements are covered in dirt and greasy finger prints - all of this is moot (or "mute" as my friends say!)

MUCH MUCH MORE IMPORTANT than brightness is the ability for a scope to maintain a secure reticle and provide for accurate (and secure) reticle adjustment when required. After all if the zero wanders - it really doesn't matter how bright the image other than you get a good view of the target you just missed.


rank needs as 1) secure/consistent reticle 2) contrast 3) resolution 4) brightness . This assumes that you are selecting from a group of scopes that meet the weight, exit pupil and magnification requirements for your intended use.

(the old ScopeChief 4 scopes can really amaze - particularly when you can find them for $60-75 used. You can pay 30 times that price and not see much improvement in image on an average hunting day! Maybe if you put it on an optical bench and ran a star test - but for the average guy - pretty darn good!! )
 
IMHO:

1. Schmidt & Bender
2. US Optics
3. Nightforce (Best bang for buck!)
4. Leupolds (i.e. MK 4 and VXIII's)

I've owned one or more from all of these manufactures except US Optics. IMHO the Nightforce glass is the best bang for the buck and delivers during low light. Where S&B might be a 10/10 the Nightforce is a 9/10 but for 2/3 the price. Just my opinion.
 
Once you havd had good glass it sure is hard to look through the cheap stuff. I agree with most of the comments here - exit pupil is very important - and there is not doubt about it - a bigger objective WILL allow more light transmission (read - you will see a brighter picture) than a smaller objective lens - if all the other factors are the same.
Dont compare a 56 mm cheapy against a 40 mm Leupold. Compare apples to apples. Bigger objective is better.

For my money - a very good reasonably priced scope that will give you years of service is a B&L ELite 3200 (or 4200) or a mid range Leupold.

Obviously you can spend more & it will be better.
 
Brightest scope

My conclusion is that there are many factors in determining the best scope for the $ and the brightest is not always the best. Brightness without edge to edge clarity is not very desirable. On a bench rest mid day your scope does not have to be too bright. Exit pupil, dependability, warranty, light transmision, glass quality and fully multicoated lens is what you are paying for in a quality scope. Euopean glass is suppose to be the best, however don't count out Japanese they produce quality glass as well. It boils down to budget, used or new, personal preference, test somebody else's scope, deal of the week, which salesman pushes which scope, weight, eye relief, 36,42 or 50mm objective, luminated recticle or not. I did see some actual test results where direct comparison was made on a number of scopes. I think i will keep my bausch & lomb 4200 1.5X6scope on my 30-06 in the short term. There will likely be another project in the near future and the search will begin.
 
The brightest scope that i have ever used(hunting) is my Swarovski 1.5-6x42 PH with 30 mm tube, brighter/clearer then my 6500s or Leu. Comp. scopes, but 2 or 3 times the price.
 
Gohome2 said:
Given a choice going from most expensive to least expensive. Not sure if this question has been asked. From my understanding there is not much of an advantage going to a 50mm scope. How does a Leupold III stack up to Zeiss, Kahles, swarovski. I am presently using an elite 4200, good optics. tks in advance
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If only looking at brightness the 4200 is hard to beat. I have a few Leupolds (VX111 and VX11 compacts) and a few bushnells (2 - 3200's, 2-4200's), and if you include the guys I hunt with one ziess conquest (3-9 44 I think), a Leupy Rifleman, simmons aetec, and a few cheap tasco and bushnell.

Nothing is any brighter than my 2.5-10x40 4200. The vx111 is not quite there, I would say you get an extra 5 min of shootable light with the 4200. The conquest is pretty much equal, and the rest fall well short.

There are alot of other factors that go into a good scope. Like how it holds its zero, how the adjustments track, resolving power and color rendition. Bang for the buck goes to the 4200, but the Conquest is pretty nice.
 
I like the glass in the Sightron SIII 6X24 - 50mm. It is brighter around the edges than my Leupold VX3-4.5-14X50 plus it has side adjustable parallax. I am amazed at this scope.
My only wish is to be able to use caps that attach like the Leupold Alumnia flip caps instead of the cheap-o Butler Creek fall off flip caps.
 
Larger objective gives a wider field of view, and scope tube diameter give more moa adjustment.
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A larger objective does not always result in a larger field of view.Prove this for yourself by comparing the VX3 in 3.5-10x40 and 3.5-10x50 and the VXII in 3-9X40 and 3-9X50.In each case,the field of view is the same with both a 40mm or 50mm lens.
 
Holleyman said:
I like the glass in the Sightron SIII 6X24 - 50mm. It is brighter around the edges than my Leupold VX3-4.5-14X50 plus it has side adjustable parallax. I am amazed at this scope.
My only wish is to be able to use caps that attach like the Leupold Alumnia flip caps instead of the cheap-o Butler Creek fall off flip caps.
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I agree about the brightness of the Sightron... better also in my opinion than the comparable Bushnell 6500 or 4200
 
For hunting the brightest scope won't do you any good if the lenses get's fogged up and you can't see nothing. It's hard to beat those Bushnell Elite 3200 and 4200 when the weather get's really bad. I'm sure at the range it's a different story
 
For hunting the brightest scope won't do you any good if the lenses get's fogged up and you can't see nothing. It's hard to beat those Bushnell Elite 3200 and 4200 when the weather get's really bad. I'm sure at the range it's a different story
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Butler Creek flip up covers not only prevent fogging,they also keep rain and snow off of the lenses.
 
Some good information has been offered above. I would only like to add four points.

1. The exit pupil must match the opening in your eye. As we age our pupils will not dilate to match a 7mm exit pupil. something like 5.5 to 6.5 MM becomes more pratical.
But if you have young eyes enjoy.

2. Color rendition is important all high qaulity optics are fully multicoated. this is what allows them to pass 98% of the light but some coatings pass certain parts of the color spectrum better than others. This could be important when trying to pick antlers and points out of a branch backround.
This is why it is so important to try the expensive optics before investing.

3. Where do you do the majority of your hunting and at what ranges? If you were need to take a 350 yard shot at a moose against a dark backround at the end of daylight. Get a 56mm objective high end variable scope with an illuminated reticle.
If you do must of your hunting in the bush get a smaller good qaulity optic with less magnification but a bigger field of view. This is where speed matters and a fast handling small scope will bring home the meat.

4. Cold temperatures can render the variablity on cheeper scopes useless. You can also break the seal on them. If you hunt in the winter at temperatures that drop down to -25 and below make sure your optic is suitable. My bushnell elite 3200 froze up pretty good at -32 last year hunting elk.
 
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