Fwb 300s

easyrider604

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Have lightly used FWB 300S .177 cal., with the match peep sight, no front counterweight, 98% blueing, small scratch on the rear end of the receiver (my stupidity) just in front of the push-in safety. It was a one holer at 10 meters, benched, with good pellets, when I last shot it.

Does anybody have an idea of the value of this old-style match rifle?

Thanks
 
A pic would be very helpful when trying to get an idea of value of the gun. I have seen these guns sell in the range of $500 to $1000, depending upon the exact model/stock style.

When you refer to the "push in safety", I must assume that you are talking about the safety sear disengagement button that is activated by the cocking lever?
 
A pic would be very helpful when trying to get an idea of value of the gun. I have seen these guns sell in the range of $500 to $1000, depending upon the exact model/stock style.

When you refer to the "push in safety", I must assume that you are talking about the safety sear disengagement button that is activated by the cocking lever?

I'll take pics later and post. Yes, that's what I meant by push in safety. Sorry for the wrong nomenclature.
 
Here are pictures of my FWB300S:

The third pic shows the scratch above the pentagon with an F inside.
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Very nice!

Based on the stock style, and the trigger, that is one of the later models.
You should be able to get somewhere in the $700 - $750 range for it, if it is in good working order.

If it has not been serviced recently, it may need the piston buffer, and the breech seal replaced. These items deteriorate over the years, and will eventually crumble to pieces. Firing the gun with crumbling buffer and breech seal will cause some major damage to the internals, as the piston slams metal to metal against the end of the compression chamber.

A complete rebuild of the powerplant will run around $100 - $125 (parts & labour), so you can adjust your price from that.
 
Vey nice! If it has not been serviced recently, it may need the piston buffer, and the breech seal replaced. These items deteriorate over the years, and will eventually crumble to pieces. Firing the gun with crumbling buffer and breech seal will cause some major damage to the internals, as the piston slams metal to metal against the end of the compression chamber.

A complete rebuild of the powerplant will run around $100 - $125 (parts & labour), so you can adjust your price from that.

Thank you for your responses. I estimate about 3 - 4,000 shots fired through this rifle since new. Not much by FWB standards. I used to place a drop of airgun oil every couple hundred shots, in that hole where I believe it should be placed.

How will I know if the buffer and seal need to be replaced? Where can I buy these parts? Are there manuals available on line? Any special tools needed? Can the average Joe handle this job?

I was going to shoot it in the basement but will heed your warning. I need to make sure shooting will not damage it. I want my grandson to enjoy this rifle.
 
The 300s is a lovely rifle, I wish I had my own. I'm using a borrowed one to learn 10m standing air rifle. Benched and sandbagged it'll put pellets through the same hole shot after shot. I wouldn't mind knowing the answers to your questions either as I may just end up getting one for myself one day.
 
You say this is old , you should see some of the
ones I see .
When you asked for a price , I thought you where
trying to get a selling price?
Or you want insurance value?
Two different things.
Marshall
 
...When you asked for a price , I thought you where trying to get a selling price? Or you want insurance value?
Two different things. Marshall

I was just curious what the fair market value would be. It is such a finely made piece of machinery, compared to even fine firearms, that it will be difficult for me to part with it. It is a joy to behold (that's just me).

After leonardj mentioned that as-is, the price could be in the 600s after allowance for the powerplant rebuild, I'm more determined to keep it. 600 bucks can easily slip through the cracks. FWB300Ss are not made anymore.
Parts can be difficult later on, though.

I like the idea of single-stroke springer powerplants because the rifle is self-contained, unlike pneumatics or C02. The same reason I like tube-magazine22s, lever action .357 rifles and revolvers. No tanks or magazines to lose or wear out.

BTW, I got this RWS Model 45. No idea of the age, but bought it about the same time as the 300S (1988-89, both used). Do I have to rebuild the powerplant too? Any idea of the value of this RWS 45, good shape? I can post pics later if it will help.

Thanks
Jet
 
Thank you for your responses. I estimate about 3 - 4,000 shots fired through this rifle since new. Not much by FWB standards. I used to place a drop of airgun oil every couple hundred shots, in that hole where I believe it should be placed.

How will I know if the buffer and seal need to be replaced? Where can I buy these parts? Are there manuals available on line? Any special tools needed? Can the average Joe handle this job?

I was going to shoot it in the basement but will heed your warning. I need to make sure shooting will not damage it. I want my grandson to enjoy this rifle.
The "drop of airgun oil" is not a good idea with the FWB 300S. These guns are lubed from the factory with moly grease, and will shoot near indefinitely without any further attention. Applying oil to the transfer port will contaminate the moly, reducing it's effectiveness, and lubrication qualities. The oil could also promote the deterioration of the buffer.

If the breech seal is an off-white, or beige colour, it will be the old style material. The new breech seals were made of a blue material. Chances are good that it has not been serviced since new, and probably should be.

Parts can be purchased from Cibles, in Quebec:
http://www.targets.ca/index.asp?Page=1

There are a couple very good, step by step tutorials on-line that can walk you through the rebuild. No special tools are needed. I'll see if I can find the tutorials, and post the links here - that way you can have a look at them and decide if it is within your ability level.

Gosh - 3 - 4,000 shots - that gun is like new. A couple years back, I put 9,000 pellets through my FWB 300S in one season !! Yup - thats almost two full sleeves of pellets.
 
The "drop of airgun oil" is not a good idea with the FWB 300S. These guns are lubed from the factory with moly grease, and will shoot near indefinitely without any further attention. Applying oil to the transfer port will contaminate the moly, reducing it's effectiveness, and lubrication qualities. The oil could also promote the deterioration of the buffer.

If the breech seal is an off-white, or beige colour, it will be the old style material. The new breech seals were made of a blue material. Chances are good that it has not been serviced since new, and probably should be.

There are a couple very good, step by step tutorials on-line that can walk you through the rebuild. No special tools are needed. I'll see if I can find the tutorials, and post the links here - that way you can have a look at them and decide if it is within your ability level.

Gosh - 3 - 4,000 shots - that gun is like new. A couple years back, I put 9,000 pellets through my FWB 300S in one season !! Yup - thats almost two full sleeves of pellets.

Oooops! It looks like I've given my 300S the wrong kind of love. Now I really need to look at the buffer and seal before shooting. Can't tell you the breech seal color because opening breach means cocking which means I have to shoot a pellet.

I've googled "FWB 300S rebuild" and found a german language tutorial thread with pictures. I hope you have an English tutorial as pictures say a thousand words but i really prefer reading English words WITH pictures.

Yes, leonardj, my 300S is like new. Even the blueing on the side lever used for cocking is still looks new.

Thanks again for your replies.
 
The 300s is a lovely rifle, I wish I had my own. I'm using a borrowed one to learn 10m standing air rifle. Benched and sandbagged it'll put pellets through the same hole shot after shot. I wouldn't mind knowing the answers to your questions either as I may just end up getting one for myself one day.

I hope you find a good 300S. It is a keeper cos it shoots as well as it looks, and it shoots way better than I can. Can't ask for more.
 
i just obtained a Feinwerkbau P70. Holy frig! i can see why they are in the winners circle at international matches. I have a fine-shooting 300S, which is just as accurate, but will now sell, as 2 top-shelf air rifles is hard to justify.

Regards,

Peter
 
I have been trying to resist the urge to shoot my 300S after being advised to service it, being 20 something years old albeit hardly used.

So I gave in last night and fired a few. Is "fired" the correct nomenclature for shooting an "air" rifle?

BTW, my 300S has the blue seal. Last night, when shot, it did not sound or feel differently than the last time I fired it about 8 yrs ago. But what do I know right?

My question is, is there a sound or feel when firing this rifle, that will indicate the need for servicing? Or do they have to be serviced just because they are 20 years old?

Thanks
 
Our club just bought one. By the serial number it was make in the late 50's.

We got it shipped to us from Vancouver for $500.00.
It needed no work at all. In as good if not better shape as the one in the photo's.

Don
Prince Geogre
 
BTW, my 300S has the blue seal. Last night, when shot, it did not sound or feel differently than the last time I fired it about 8 yrs ago. But what do I know right?

My question is, is there a sound or feel when firing this rifle, that will indicate the need for servicing? Or do they have to be serviced just because they are 20 years old?
The blue breech seal is the newer material, so if you hadn't replaced it, a previous owner may have.

The "sound, or feel" to look for is - look for tiny bits of crumbled plastic, about the size of granules of sand, or smaller, being present in the barrel, or in the tranfer port, after shooting the gun. This means that the piston buffer is disintegrating.
At some point, once the buffer has been completely obliterated, the steel piston will strike the end of the steel compression chamber, and it is this action that will eventually lead to irrepairable damage to the gun in very short order. When I say "irrepairable" I mean within the realm of practicality - just a new piston and compression chamber will set you back approximately $500 - $550 USD plus the cost of the teardown and installation.
A new buffer costs around $15 plus the cost of installation.

Refreshing the lubes and getting rid of the dried out/hardened up lubes can't hurt either.
 
LeonardJ,
The blue breech seal is the newer material, so if you hadn't replaced it, a previous owner may have.

A serial number search revealed my 300S was manufactured in 1985-86. I bought it used in 1988. Almost new. Maybe it is safe to assume the blue seal is original. Should I replace it?

The "sound, or feel" to look for is - look for tiny bits of crumbled plastic, about the size of granules of sand, or smaller, being present in the barrel, or in the tranfer port, after shooting the gun. This means that the piston buffer is disintegrating.
At some point, once the buffer has been completely obliterated, the steel piston will strike the end of the steel compression chamber, and it is this action that will eventually lead to irrepairable damage to the gun in very short order. When I say "irrepairable" I mean within the realm of practicality - just a new piston and compression chamber will set you back approximately $500 - $550 USD plus the cost of the teardown and installation.
A new buffer costs around $15 plus the cost of installation.

Refreshing the lubes and getting rid of the dried out/hardened up lubes can't hurt either.

I will not shoot her again until I replace the buffer and clean/replace the lube, promise.

Is this the link you were referring to, for disassembly instructions?
http://www.pilkguns.com/tenp/fwb300fieldstrip.htm

I may be able to to do the work. What brand/type of moly grease do you recommend? Are there any other parts I should order?

Thank you
 
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