HK USC to UMP conversion

2dhux3qevilsmileyguy.jpg
[/IMG]
nickorette said:
you know we all hate you right?
Click to expand...
 
kuya said:
When dying the USC black does one have to take the entire rifle apart? What is the correct process and what type of dye should I use?
Click to expand...

When I dyed my USC I fully disassembled it...essentially you are left with three major components.

I could not find any Rit liquid so I used the powdered stuff...3 black, 1 dk green.

I took a large aluminum pot that was deep enough to submerge all the parts that I had suspended with wire from a piece of wood across the top of the pot.

I filled the pot with water and put it on my gas BBQ and heated the water...the best I could get was about 150/160F. Once the water was heated I added the dye and mixed vigourously. Then I lowered the parts into the soup and let them cook. Occasionally I agitated the parts and pulled them out for a look.

It was my intention to let them cook for about an hour and a half, but my BBQ ran out of gas after about 45 minutes.:redface:

I let the parts soak while the water cooled a little and pulled them out after about 45 minutes and hosed them off with cold water.

I must say I was really impressed with the results...it looked great! Even the black and red markings were still very bright, while the finish was black as night.
 
Moparlover said:
saw on a site somewhere that H.E.R.A. makes a 20rd mag for the USC. maybe someone can inquire with arms east on availability. blocked of course
Click to expand...

HERA also says that they make them to meet specific capacity restrictions based on different countries. All are the same length, but they come from the factory pinned. This shoud make it easier to bring them in. At least in theory.

Found the quote:
HK-USC Magazin / 20

The 20rd. magazine is a "one of a kind" produced by H.E.R.A. product made entirely out of high grade aluminum using the best CNC-milling technology available. We want to give our customers the best magazine on the market so we had our design team work to give you an incredibly strong magazine with a real tactical look. H.E.R.A. understands that not all areas allow for a full 20rd magazine so we have also produced a 5rd and 10rd magazine to meet local law. You will still be able to get the length and look that you want without having rivets or pins.
Click to expand...
 
Hey does anyone have the Diagram for making the barrel port slot cuts on a USC so it looks more like a UMP? Here is a pic of the Slots I am talking about. I credit Sprint for the photo.

UMP2-1.jpg
 
With the G36K all wrapped up it was time to move on. As of the big box arriving today from Wolverine I'll be starting on mine.

It came to my door like so...

2b22c6b0.jpg


and within 20 minutes I had it to here...

79668ab8-1.jpg


Just a couple of observations. The barrel is serial numbered to match the reciever... interesting. It's smaller and lighter than I had anticipated. The trigger guard was larger... has something to do with being more glove friendly. And after having a love affair with the MP5 after playing with one in depot I've had a chub the cat can't scratch to do the HK slap again. Can't wait for the range!

Now it'll be a matter of the lower conversion kit and I should be off to the races. All in all a much easier conversion than I'd anticipated(knock on wood). I'll update when the parts come in. I think I'm going with a Burris Fastfire II or a Doctor reddot, something low and small. We'll see what becomes availible:D
 
Last edited:
mrsmitty said:
I have a possible source on a Navy UMP lower which of course has a selector switch that shows a 0,1,2 on it. The 2 is useless with the USC parts. So my question is this legal? Or because its not the registered part (the upper is) is it ok?
Click to expand...

Yes, it is legal as it is not a registered part. There have been reports of the lower getting a serial number on the trigger guard now, so be aware of .

Moparlover said:
i think that may make it a 12/3 converted auto class. not advised
Click to expand...

Not true at all.

mrsmitty said:
K thanks for the info. Anyone else have any experience with this?
Click to expand...

My experience is with SL8-G36 conversion, but the only difference is the physical shape of the parts. The upper is the registered part, and thus legally the firearm in both cases.

Because the upper is the firearm, and the upper always did fire in semi-auto and always will after the conversion, there is no status change from semi to full and back to semi, thus 12.3 can not apply. For 12.3, the firearm must have, at some point after leaving the factory, been able to fire in full auto. The USC conversion, as long as you leave the shelf in the receiver alone and do not change its dimensions cannot fit the full-auto fire-control parts, and nor will a UMP bolt fit into the USC receiver to interact with such fire-control parts. The boys down south with their very strict full-auto rules ("Oh, your SKS is bump-firing because you have not cleaned it? Well sir, I need you to come step into this van. That's right, the van marked BATFA on the side. We just want to talk to you.") do this conversion all the time and don't think twice about it.

Do the conversion. Move all the USC fire-control parts into the UMP. It will not move past the semi setting. If the pictograms for full or burst bother you, erase them with acetone. But what they say and what your firearm can do are very different. I can indicate the settings on my firearm as "Safe" and "Hiroshima", but when I go to the range, a certain city does not receive a nuclear explosion.

chad_chewy said:
Questar commented to me a year or two ago that the CFC has issues with those lowers so probably wouldn't be a good idea to try importing one.
Click to expand...

And since when has the CFC made or interpreted laws for us? The law states that one cannot have full-auto, or converted auto unless one has the licence for such things. The fact that the CFC has "issues" doesn't mean anything. Playboy has issues, so what? Don't cut the shelf, make sure to move all the fire-control-group parts over to the UMP lower, and enjoy your firearm. And if anyone at the range gives you a hard time about the pictograms, offer to let them shoot the firearm. They will quickly forget all their problems as they welcome the embrace of Heckler & Koch, and quickly notice that the switch only has two settings.
 
oenone said:
Yes, it is legal as it is not a registered part. There have been reports of the lower getting a serial number on the trigger guard now, so be aware of .



Not true at all.



My experience is with SL8-G36 conversion, but the only difference is the physical shape of the parts. The upper is the registered part, and thus legally the firearm in both cases.

Because the upper is the firearm, and the upper always did fire in semi-auto and always will after the conversion, there is no status change from semi to full and back to semi, thus 12.3 can not apply. For 12.3, the firearm must have, at some point after leaving the factory, been able to fire in full auto. The USC conversion, as long as you leave the shelf in the receiver alone and do not change its dimensions cannot fit the full-auto fire-control parts, and nor will a UMP bolt fit into the USC receiver to interact with such fire-control parts. The boys down south with their very strict full-auto rules ("Oh, your SKS is bump-firing because you have not cleaned it? Well sir, I need you to come step into this van. That's right, the van marked BATFA on the side. We just want to talk to you.") do this conversion all the time and don't think twice about it.

Do the conversion. Move all the USC fire-control parts into the UMP. It will not move past the semi setting. If the pictograms for full or burst bother you, erase them with acetone. But what they say and what your firearm can do are very different. I can indicate the settings on my firearm as "Safe" and "Hiroshima", but when I go to the range, a certain city does not receive a nuclear explosion.



And since when has the CFC made or interpreted laws for us? The law states that one cannot have full-auto, or converted auto unless one has the licence for such things. The fact that the CFC has "issues" doesn't mean anything. Playboy has issues, so what? Don't cut the shelf, make sure to move all the fire-control-group parts over to the UMP lower, and enjoy your firearm. And if anyone at the range gives you a hard time about the pictograms, offer to let them shoot the firearm. They will quickly forget all their problems as they welcome the embrace of Heckler & Koch, and quickly notice that the switch only has two settings.
Click to expand...

i'm just going by what i know, sorry. if i were to do that to my HK94, even without changing the trigger pack, it changes the class of firearm from a 12/5 to a 12/3 c/a. that is why the rcmp is wary of the ucs/ump conversions. i also have usc/ump conversion and wouldn't reccommend installing the 3 or 4 position lowers. just my 2 cents, and i'm sure i'll get s@#t on for it. as a matter of fact i have a second brand new usc, the last one from wolverine
 
Im doing the USC to UMP conversion as we speak.

I have the lower, and I am designing my own stock block, HOWEVER I do know whom can get a semi-only UMP lower and HDPS UMP folding stock block + HK stock. It is most definitely not cheap, but that's not why we do these conversions.

If you are interested shoot me an IM and I will provide you with the info ;)



As far as difficulty goes?

Its difficult but not VERY difficult. Maybe a 5-6 out of 10 on the hardness factor.

Swapping out the USC trigger guts into the UMP Lower isn't particularly hard, but does require paying attention to it as its coming apart. The only real mods to the USC Receiver is opening up the magazine well, and you can do that really easily with a Dremel Tool and some files.
 
mrsmitty said:
I don't think you need to swap trigger parts if you have the FBI lower
Click to expand...

If it is anything like with the G36, where the FBI lower is just a full lower without the auto function, then it won't fit as it still interacts with the bolt through the catch-release. And for that to work, you need to cut the shelf. And you should not cut the shelf, ever. So no, the FBI trigger parts will not work on the USC, you must swap.

However:

On the SL8, you can use any lower, except it will not function in anything but semi and bolt action (Seriously, the full-auto setting if used on an SL8 with a G36 lower will not reset the hammer if the trigger is held, because the catch-release catches the hammer, but doesn't release as the bolt carrier on the SL8 cannot interact with the catch-release and get it to release.).

So, if you remove the catch-release from the lower on the UMP/USC, then yes, it will function (in a burst or Navy lower, remove the catch-release and the slide and all non "safe" settings will be semi only. So the burst lower will be safe-semi-semi-semi, for example.) just fine with the rest of the UMP FBI parts inside.

Remember that at no point in time are you converting the firearm from semi to full and back. The firearm is the upper, which is why you never, ever touch the shelf. The lower, you can do whatever you want to it.
 
Last edited:
mrsmitty said:
I don't think you need to swap trigger parts if you have the FBI lower
Click to expand...

You lose the secondary safety of the UMP internals if you dont, since it doesn't have the sear actuator "lug" on the bolt. It will fire, but you are losing an important safety feature.

You also have a heavier trigger pull, the USC is a bit lighter.


I would NOT just leave the UMP parts in... do the swap. Its not that difficult to figure out, it just takes a bit of time, and you get a better trigger pull AND retain all the safety features of the USC trigger group.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom