How do you clean your SKS after an afternoon of shooting?

stefK

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I have seen the links on this topic. My buddy and I used varsol to remove the cosmoline and brake clean tp clean the parts and then apply a fine film of gun oil. I have seen a lot of people reffering to using Windex and WD 40?? Really?? or is it Bull$hyte?
 
I am a cheap @$$. So I use hot water over all parts that have carbon residue. I dry it, then use brake cleaner to remove the carbon. Use Marstar CLP on everything except gas tube & piston while re-assembling. Hoppe's #9 down the barrel & it's ready untill I want to shoot it again. On a side note, I never shoot this rifle unless I have a half an hour deticated to cleaning and aleast 200 plus rounds to use.
 
I am a cheap @$$. So I use hot water over all parts that have carbon residue. I dry it, then use brake cleaner to remove the carbon. Use Marstar CLP on everything except gas tube & piston while re-assembling. Hoppe's #9 down the barrel & it's ready untill I want to shoot it again. On a side note, I never shoot this rifle unless I have a half an hour deticated to cleaning and aleast 200 plus rounds to use.

Brake Kleen, Marstar CLP and Hoppes #9 ?!?! You call that being a "cheap @$$"?

I trim the fat a little more then you. ;) Boiling water down the gas affected components, let it evaporate, then scrub her good with CLP.

Works great. Clean and no corrosion.

I agree about it being a hassle. I dont shoot corrosive unless I'm really going to make it worth it.
 
im not cheap, so i just throw mine out and buy a new one...

LOL

this is the most proper way to clean up SKS (while they are not that expensive) :D

by the way, we are talking about shooters not collector grades, right? :D
I mean if you want to shoot the hell out of your rifle and for that purpose you are buying corrosive cheap surplus, why to be so much concerned about cleaning? After you sent down the pipe 10 crates of ammo in one year (or much less time for some :D) the gun is no virgin anymore, who cares if it’s pitted...On the other hand, if you’d like to keep you gun in a near to new condition and you take it to the range twice a year for 20 shots each time, simply don’t buy corrosive ammo. Really, it’s cheaper to shoot 20 rounds for $20 than shoot $4 corrosive ammo and clean the rifle for half an hour or more....

Back in the 40th when the rifle were designed, and 50th when the rifle was produced at full speed, and up to the present days most Russians shoot Berdan primed ammo and clean their rifles with basic solvent (alkaline, pH >7) and oil after that. That is why there is a two necked oiler in the kit...
 
Hot water down the barrel & gas tube. I also clean the piston with hot water. Then clean the whole rifle like any other. Apply a light coat of CLP or other protective oil in the bore & other parts.
 
I fully disassemble it then I pour boiling water with a little bit of windex down the barrel. I clean every parts with hoppe's 9 and I spray Rem Oil lubricant on each parts of the gun than I reassemble it.

Do you guys think it's a good method ?
 
I think the Windex method is used for a quick clean at the range, the ammonia being the active ingredient to dissolve the salts left behind from the milsurp primers. A thorough cleaning at home is the ticket.
 
I think the Windex method is used for a quick clean at the range, the ammonia being the active ingredient to dissolve the salts left behind from the milsurp primers. A thorough cleaning at home is the ticket.

Personally I dont see reason to clean anything at the range unless gun has been dropped in mud or sand.
 
Boiling hot water seems to do the trick just fine.. then wipe it down, followed with a light coat of gun oil... I like the military oil i picked up at the local surplus, it doesn’t freeze and seems to keep things lubed and protected. Cleaning the gun after shooting cheap ammo should be a riturtal, I do it even after just 20 rounds and actually enjoy it. My bore stays nice an shiny, and no sign of corrision anywhere on the gun.
i am waiting for the delivery of my non issued sks!
 
Well I can tell you that Ive seen the rust form in front of my eyes...almost. It's not the barrel but the small tight spots that rust quickly. Around the front of the gas tube and the piston are the worst. I found that if you have no time or are lazy, the best bet is to disassemble the system. I went shooting last summer and being a slob I didn't clean the gun. The next day we left on a 30 day road trip across western Canada. Luckily I had disassembled the gun the night before. When we returned a month later there was no rust on any parts. But I guarantee that if you leave the SKS together for three days or maybe less, after shooting milsurp ammo, you'll have rust which could pit the piston and tube at least. The barrels are chrome and will fair better than the plain steel parts. Boiling hot water with dish soap in it, poured over and through everything except the trigger group which I just wipe down. Dries quickly. Then I drop everything into a bath of eds red. Dry. Then oil everything with CLP. I spend more time on my 200 dollar gun than I do on the ARs. Does take awhile to do right if your anal
 
Personally I dont see reason to clean anything at the range unless gun has been dropped in mud or sand.

It is a battle implement - it was designed to function if dropped in mud or sand. Unless you are plugging the muzzle, in which case one of your buddies should BEAT you with your rifle, as you don't deserve to own one(!).

;)

And, I'm confused: What use is WD40? Seriously? It displaces water, it does not protect anything from anything?

And ammonia? What does it do to dissolve salt? Seriously?

Corrosive is NOT a big deal. Flush with hot water to dissolve and flush away the small amount of salts from your primers - if you use water from a kettle, the water will evaporate all by itself. Use any solvent of your choice, and any lubricant of your choice, as per any firearm. The water is the key part of it all. Lebrechaun livers ground into a fine paste, or pixie dust have nothing to do with anything, with regards to corrosive cleaning.

IMHO - But what do I know: I've only been shooting corrosive .303 for about 20 years, with NO rust whatsoever.
 
On a side note, pretty blue Windex is 95% water and contains so little ammonia (0.05% of 28% ammonium hydroxide) as to be useless in removing copper fouling. Plain hot water is much cheaper for removing the primer salts.
 
So quick question---
I just purchased a Norinco SKS which apparently has a chromed barrel. Does this just make cleaning easier? I have about 100 rounds of factory Norinco ammo (non-corrosive) but plan on purchasing a case of milsurp ammo soon. If I go out plinking in the bush with some friends on a Friday/Saturday, is it safe to wait a day or two to clean (until I get home) or should I carry cleaning supplies while out?

Sorry, rookie questions...
 
You'll be fine! Just remember to address the situation when you get home. Most SKSs are chrome lined bbls.The chrome coats the bbl and makes it quie tough. If you're shooting non corrosive ammo you will have no problems but a dirty gun. A little bit of elbow grease and fine steel wool soaked in oil or clp or carb cleaner will talke any early rust signs off
 
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