Well, it's official - I'm a Dillon Super 1050 owner! *VID post 18, PHOTOS post 29*
- Thread starter Doc M
- Start date
Looks good. As for lube. i use Lyman spay for my 650 (pistol only so far). The spray only lubes the outside of the cases. Are you concerned with lube not getting of the inside of the case neck? Could try the Lyman Motor Mica (#7991415). I got some but never used yet. You take a case and dip the neck into a small amount of the lube/powder. It's inert so won't affect the propellant. But this step would really slow down the process if you have to touch every case.
One question: Is there a powder check/alarm ?
My experience with pistol loading in my 650....was if i went too fast that the occasional powder drop would be light or nonexistent. Which casued a few squibs at first (luckily i never fired the next round). Being able to look inside the case mouth to ensure powder had dropped has eliminated squibs for me. With rifle loading, you can't see inside.
One question: Is there a powder check/alarm ?
My experience with pistol loading in my 650....was if i went too fast that the occasional powder drop would be light or nonexistent. Which casued a few squibs at first (luckily i never fired the next round). Being able to look inside the case mouth to ensure powder had dropped has eliminated squibs for me. With rifle loading, you can't see inside.
Alright, lots of questions, so I'll do my best to answer in one post here.
dudley2112 -
Yes, that was .308. I have two rifles in .308 but I shoot them what one would probably call "a fair bit" lol... I got the machine sent to me set up for .308 since the .223 carbide dies were backordered with the Dillon factory. I have a spare toolhead and all the bits to change over to .223 as well, which is how this machine will be spending most of its time.
JOJOPINTO -
Thanks, my friend! It's a bit finnicky with the case insertion right now, but I've got some ideas for how to clear that up and hopefully it'll take care of itself... after which point I'll put the camera on a stand and do up a proper video showing this thing in action.
bear.23 -
Yessir, good recommendation on the filler... that'll be a 'next purchase' thing down the road for sure. When I'm not holding the camera, I can fill a tube lickety-split... I really must look like an uncoordinated troglodyte in that video, lol!
Which, of course, I am - but if I REALLY focus I can fill the primer tube in about a minute. Then my brain hurts... 
Zeb -
I'm not running a powder check presently, no. With a few of my lovely mis-indexing problems I had to cull out a few non-powdered or partially-powdered cases... and I got a few "pepper shakers" because of this too, but for the most part I'm able to see the top of the powder charge in my cases as I'm manually seating the bullet.
As for the lube, I'm thinking now of standing the cases upright and then spraying them; some other internet 1050 owners have posted on various sites about doing this and having it help with the 'sticky' button passage. My cases aren't sticking in the die, it's just a little "jumpier" retracting on the upstroke than I'd like for really smooth feeding... I'd thought about motor mica, but as you say it's a pain in the ass and sort of defeats the purpose of having a high-volume progressive. I'll get back to this thread with whatever I find as a solution.
===
Thanks for the feedback, everyone - and again, if anyone's had case infeed problems and wouldn't mind letting me know the secret to reliability there (before I go try the few ideas I have right now, maybe later tonight) I'd be eternally grateful.
-M
dudley2112 -
Yes, that was .308. I have two rifles in .308 but I shoot them what one would probably call "a fair bit" lol... I got the machine sent to me set up for .308 since the .223 carbide dies were backordered with the Dillon factory. I have a spare toolhead and all the bits to change over to .223 as well, which is how this machine will be spending most of its time.
JOJOPINTO -
Thanks, my friend! It's a bit finnicky with the case insertion right now, but I've got some ideas for how to clear that up and hopefully it'll take care of itself... after which point I'll put the camera on a stand and do up a proper video showing this thing in action.
bear.23 -
Yessir, good recommendation on the filler... that'll be a 'next purchase' thing down the road for sure. When I'm not holding the camera, I can fill a tube lickety-split... I really must look like an uncoordinated troglodyte in that video, lol!
Which, of course, I am - but if I REALLY focus I can fill the primer tube in about a minute. Then my brain hurts... Zeb -
I'm not running a powder check presently, no. With a few of my lovely mis-indexing problems I had to cull out a few non-powdered or partially-powdered cases... and I got a few "pepper shakers" because of this too, but for the most part I'm able to see the top of the powder charge in my cases as I'm manually seating the bullet.
As for the lube, I'm thinking now of standing the cases upright and then spraying them; some other internet 1050 owners have posted on various sites about doing this and having it help with the 'sticky' button passage. My cases aren't sticking in the die, it's just a little "jumpier" retracting on the upstroke than I'd like for really smooth feeding... I'd thought about motor mica, but as you say it's a pain in the ass and sort of defeats the purpose of having a high-volume progressive. I'll get back to this thread with whatever I find as a solution.
===
Thanks for the feedback, everyone - and again, if anyone's had case infeed problems and wouldn't mind letting me know the secret to reliability there (before I go try the few ideas I have right now, maybe later tonight) I'd be eternally grateful.
-M
I didn't think to look specifically for this in your video...but do you have the handle adjusted (there are three "lenghts") so that it is in its' longest configuration? I initially had mine in the middle poistion...and ended up with it fully extended. I was surprised how much smoother it made the indexing.
Alright, lots of questions, so I'll do my best to answer in one post here.
dudley2112 -
Yes, that was .308. I have two rifles in .308 but I shoot them what one would probably call "a fair bit" lol... I got the machine sent to me set up for .308 since the .223 carbide dies were backordered with the Dillon factory. I have a spare toolhead and all the bits to change over to .223 as well, which is how this machine will be spending most of its time.
JOJOPINTO -
Thanks, my friend! It's a bit finnicky with the case insertion right now, but I've got some ideas for how to clear that up and hopefully it'll take care of itself... after which point I'll put the camera on a stand and do up a proper video showing this thing in action.
bear.23 -
Yessir, good recommendation on the filler... that'll be a 'next purchase' thing down the road for sure. When I'm not holding the camera, I can fill a tube lickety-split... I really must look like an uncoordinated troglodyte in that video, lol!
Zeb -
I'm not running a powder check presently, no. With a few of my lovely mis-indexing problems I had to cull out a few non-powdered or partially-powdered cases... and I got a few "pepper shakers" because of this too, but for the most part I'm able to see the top of the powder charge in my cases as I'm manually seating the bullet.
As for the lube, I'm thinking now of standing the cases upright and then spraying them; some other internet 1050 owners have posted on various sites about doing this and having it help with the 'sticky' button passage. My cases aren't sticking in the die, it's just a little "jumpier" retracting on the upstroke than I'd like for really smooth feeding... I'd thought about motor mica, but as you say it's a pain in the ass and sort of defeats the purpose of having a high-volume progressive. I'll get back to this thread with whatever I find as a solution.
===
Thanks for the feedback, everyone - and again, if anyone's had case infeed problems and wouldn't mind letting me know the secret to reliability there (before I go try the few ideas I have right now, maybe later tonight) I'd be eternally grateful.
-M
Good question! I've actually got it on the 'middle' position as well... I suppose I should put it out at its longest and have a go! I'll add that to the 'tuning' ideas I have which are largely centered around checking for 'wobble' in the shellplate by pushing on Station 4 and making sure I adjust any play out. It came about a turn and a half looser from the factory, with PLENTY of wobble when pressing on Station 8, but I've seen the Dillon tech guys suggest specifically pressing on Station 4 and adjusting to a zero-play condition to correct infeed issues.
Perhaps that extra inch or so of handle will make it all that much smoother retracting the button too, in which case I'll be laughing!
-M
- Location
- Halifax - NS
A few tips I learned from the master... (W.H.)
1. Put an allen key in the primer depth rod on the toolhead - leave it so if it backs out it runs into the resizing die.
2. Put a funnel and a small hose in place of the dead primer bin. Run the hose into a empty powder container or empty washer fluid jug. (You'll fill the bin way too fast with a 1050)
3. Disconnect and remove the lock-out on the back of the base that keeps the system from going backwards. The ratchet is cool now, but sooner or later, you'll want to back up a hair and you'll be stuck emptying all the stations instead.
and I echo what the other guys said - get a primer tube filler!
1. Put an allen key in the primer depth rod on the toolhead - leave it so if it backs out it runs into the resizing die.
2. Put a funnel and a small hose in place of the dead primer bin. Run the hose into a empty powder container or empty washer fluid jug. (You'll fill the bin way too fast with a 1050)
3. Disconnect and remove the lock-out on the back of the base that keeps the system from going backwards. The ratchet is cool now, but sooner or later, you'll want to back up a hair and you'll be stuck emptying all the stations instead.
and I echo what the other guys said - get a primer tube filler!
FV - thanks for the tips, I'm sure I'll get around to all of the above very soon, lol!
Now for an important update:
THE 1050 WORKS FLAWLESSLY AS OF TONIGHT!!!
All I did was follow Quigley's suggestion to put the handle in the longest position, and it was a day and night difference... who knew 1" of handle length made such a difference! Actually, come to think of it, the ladies have been telling me this for most of my adult life... if only there were a setscrew I could adjust in that case...
I was fully prepared to torque the crap out of the shellplate hold-down nut, thinking there might have been some wobble in the shellplate that was causing this debacle... well, there wasn't (that I could see) so I thought "alright, well let's just do the handle trick anyway, as a first try."
Well, I had about 200 brass prepped and ready to go, and I burned through 'em like I had entered reloading Nirvana. This machine is officially worth every penny... amazing!
Of course, being a pessimist, I didn't bring my digital camera... next time!
I'm on cloud nine right now, words can't even express it... I think I need help...
Thanks to all you guys in this thread and via PM (special shout-out to Canuck223 for helping troubleshoot via PM, and checking my rationale for which adjustments I might have made if the handle hadn't turned out so well) for your awesome advice and support.
Working vid to come soon - check back for Dillon ####!
-M
Now for an important update:
THE 1050 WORKS FLAWLESSLY AS OF TONIGHT!!!
All I did was follow Quigley's suggestion to put the handle in the longest position, and it was a day and night difference... who knew 1" of handle length made such a difference! Actually, come to think of it, the ladies have been telling me this for most of my adult life... if only there were a setscrew I could adjust in that case...
I was fully prepared to torque the crap out of the shellplate hold-down nut, thinking there might have been some wobble in the shellplate that was causing this debacle... well, there wasn't (that I could see) so I thought "alright, well let's just do the handle trick anyway, as a first try."
Well, I had about 200 brass prepped and ready to go, and I burned through 'em like I had entered reloading Nirvana. This machine is officially worth every penny... amazing!
Of course, being a pessimist, I didn't bring my digital camera... next time!
I'm on cloud nine right now, words can't even express it... I think I need help...
Thanks to all you guys in this thread and via PM (special shout-out to Canuck223 for helping troubleshoot via PM, and checking my rationale for which adjustments I might have made if the handle hadn't turned out so well) for your awesome advice and support.
Working vid to come soon - check back for Dillon ####!
-M
One more update tonight... for all those asking for detailed pics, here's a thumbnail breakdown (just click for larger versions) of a bunch of static shots of different components.
If you want a further explanation of a given snap, just ask in this thread and I'll do my best - otherwise, I'll just let the pics speak for themselves right now. Enjoy!
-M
If you want a further explanation of a given snap, just ask in this thread and I'll do my best - otherwise, I'll just let the pics speak for themselves right now. Enjoy!
-M
The awesome just can not be expressed. Nice rig. What are you set up to load?
Dillon makes one. Search their site for "Automatic Primer Filler."
Dillon makes one. Search their site for "Automatic Primer Filler."
The Dillon model is spendy, but worth it. For a guy sitting on 20 primer tubes, the old discontinued Vibra-Prime unit Midway used to sell makes sense. If you don't already have tubes, the Dillon filler makes sense.
I dump in a tray of primers, and then fill the case feeder. By the time the primer filler is done, the case feed tube is full and ready to rock. I fill the press magazine and load the filler again. From that point, filling the primer filler only adds a few seconds to the interuption of filling the primer magazine.
I dump in a tray of primers, and then fill the case feeder. By the time the primer filler is done, the case feed tube is full and ready to rock. I fill the press magazine and load the filler again. From that point, filling the primer filler only adds a few seconds to the interuption of filling the primer magazine.
anybody who can afford a 1050 can afford a Dillon primer tube filler. The question that always makes me think is it better to buy a 1050, or for roughly the same price 2 650's, or 3 Hornady LNL's?
My common sense says a 1050.
My common sense says a 1050.
Thank you, Sir!
It's set up in .308 right now and I've got it hummmmmmmmmming along as of last night.
I also have all the bits and pieces (yes, including another toolhead and powder measure) to swap 'er out to .223.
With 2,000 pcs of IVI milsurp crimped .223 having just arrived, life is about to get very good around the "Doc M" man cave!
-M
Neat.
I am taking a big interest in this because my Father and I are finalizing the details of our 1050 and accessories from Dillon. It's taken quite a number of emails back and forth, but we are getting the list of everything hammered down.
We justify it because we will be loading for ourselves and some close friends, and the turret press just does not cut it in terms of output.
I wish that they could just have a primer filler that stays attached to the machine so you just dump primers in from the top of the primer filler, kind of like the casefeeder, rather then having to swap out the tube all the time. Thats my one nitpick with it.
I am taking a big interest in this because my Father and I are finalizing the details of our 1050 and accessories from Dillon. It's taken quite a number of emails back and forth, but we are getting the list of everything hammered down.
We justify it because we will be loading for ourselves and some close friends, and the turret press just does not cut it in terms of output.
I wish that they could just have a primer filler that stays attached to the machine so you just dump primers in from the top of the primer filler, kind of like the casefeeder, rather then having to swap out the tube all the time. Thats my one nitpick with it.
From what I understand the primers are a safety issue, even 100 of them going up is quite an experience. I'm sure they have considered what you are saying, but safety was given a higher priority.
My 1050 is coming soon as well, so I'm following this thread with great interest.
rnbra-shooter
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- New Brunswick
Doc M congrats, nice to see that you are such a proud daddy. Wish I lived nearer, I'd love to invite myself over to visit. Don't worry, I'd bring a couple of buckets of IVI .223 ;-)
I've always been curious how a 1050's primer swaging system works. I'm not sure if it is shown in one of the photos you've posted above (could you point it out?), or not.
I've always been curious how a 1050's primer swaging system works. I'm not sure if it is shown in one of the photos you've posted above (could you point it out?), or not.
You won't have time to read this thread...you'll be forced to spend much more time on the range trying to keep up with the reloads piling up in your ammo closet
Seriously though...you'll love it
