my first build stevens 200

darryl781

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here is my first build started with a .223 stevens 200. modified the factory tupperware stock using epoxy and wood, got a 28" heavy contour mcgowen blank barrel had it threaded and chambered i kept it in .223.
got a 9-13 harris bi pod but going to switch it to a 6-9 for on the bench.
using a 4.5-14-40 mueller scope.

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took it today first time 6 shot group at 100 yards in less then 1.5" the rifle isnt bedded yet. think it will improve much?
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Shoulda shot it before you rebarreled it! you might have been surprised! Looks awesome though. Good work on the stock. Have you adjusted the trigger down? That made a huge difference in my groups. They looked like yours and now shoots MOA easily.
 
thats only 55 grn remington umc yellow box. i dont reload.. yet.

why do you think it wont make the group better?

He said it won't make the group BIGGER, meaning it WILL be better.

Reloading is definitely a must for shooting well. Even if you get a lee hand-loader, you can crank out great ammo for cheap and it doesn't take that long. It is the best single thing I've done for my shooting.

Do you know anyone at your club that reloads? People at our range are really friendly and someone might invite you over to reload a box or two to start. That's how I started reloading.

As for bedding, from the look of your stock build and your skill, you could easily bed the rifle. Lots of good picture-by-picture tutorials on the net, and probably some good vids on youtube aswell.
 
...It won't make the group any bigger.

LMAO! Or, so you believe...;)

Nice HUNTING rifle. Perhaps, you should have posted this thread in the HUNTING section. Neither your rifle or the ammo you've used is worthy of being considered "precision" in nature.

Good luck on completing your project. I'm sure it'll give you plenty of personal satisfaction when you're finished.
 
LMAO! Or, so you believe...;)

Nice HUNTING rifle. Perhaps, you should have posted this thread in the HUNTING section. Neither your rifle or the ammo you've used is worthy of being considered "precision" in nature.

Good luck on completing your project. I'm sure it'll give you plenty of personal satisfaction when you're finished.

Wow your condescending posts are really helpful! Thanks for taking the time to encourage fellow CGNers. So what is considered PRECISION to you? Please let us know. My Stevens is completely factory with the cheapest Bushnell I could find and shoots Sub MOA easily with factory ammo, and my last trip out printed about an inch at 200 m! For under 500 bucks thats precision enough for me. On second thought dont bother responding. Your negative attitude and comments aren't wanted here.
 
Just a thought,, BTW you did a good job on the stock... I think there should be a forum for Stevens and Savage....
 
What twist is the new barrel? 1:9, 1:8 or 1:7 will shoot the heavier 69 & 75gr (1:9 and 1:8) - 90gr (1:7) bullets well.

Varget (if you can find it) and Reloader 15 work really well in the .223 with 69gr bullets.

H322 and Benchmark work VERY well with the light 50-55gr bullets, or at least it did in my .223.
 
Looks like an awesome job on the stock, when I looked at the first couple pictures i was like.. yikes.. then it all came together quite nice.

As for a separate Stevens - Savage forum, how about a "Rifle Modifications" forum to cover mods to all rifles.

I also believe the OP's goal is to have a precision rifle, as to why he modified the stock, added a new barrel... so it's a Precision rifle in the works. If he hand loads, and beds the stock I have no doubt his rifle will fit most peoples definition of a Precision rifle.
 
I went and bought a caliper tom measure that 200m group for you 2bad4u2!

An inch!
Completely factory, with a Cheap Bushnell 3x9, and Factory Federal ammo!
I will say that is the best I've ever shot but MOA is the norm!

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The OP just needs some small adjustments and some trigger time
 
Great work and a shooter after my own heart.

Bedding will really help as the inletting on those stocks are best described as sloppy. You will be able to do the job no problem at all. Just keep an eye that the action is not bent by tightening the bolts too much. Should be level and unstressed. Let the bedding support the action.

Definitely handloading is the way to get much better accuracy after the bedding gets done. You can also try various factory ammo and see what will shoot better but that cost will far exceed getting a very good reloading kit.

Once you get into reloading and discover how great you can make this and all your other rifles shoot, you may never shoot factory again.

Very nice work....

Jerry

PS not sure what the criteria for precision is or ever will be but testing my Shilen/Savage F class rig at 200yds today in moderately gusty conditions and shooting groups in the 1's and 2's is precise enough for me.
 
im using weaver bases and low rings they fit the factory barrel nice. but i noticed its like a mm from the new barrel and it touches if i move the adj lense so im going to pick up new bases and higher rings probabely the same leupold ones i got on my .204.
i went with the 1:9 twist and i plan on shooting up to 69 grns. and i do plan on reloading sometime i got like 200 empty cases. and i was just using the ammo i had left from coyote hunting. also the shoots were taking from a bipod on a windy day it was actually pushing my gun over i could see it in my scope i was trying to shoot inbetween winds.
i took the gun apart today and opened the barrel channel up a bit more, and i bedded a threaded rod in the stock then ill try it, then ill bed it. and the trigger is still set at factory so ill try adjusting it down abit.

i also shoot a factory(no mods)savage 12bvss .204 that shoots .3 at a 100yds with factory 34gr. wincestors all day long
 
Consider loading 75gr Berger and Amax bullets and it will really help with your LR wind drift.

Varget, CCI 450 and a very precise scale and you are off to the races.

The key to loading 223 is being able to keep your charge weights inside 0.1gr variance. Most reloading scales have a much larger error and this can be very frustrating when working with a small case.

A Jennings MACK20 is not very expensive and works wonderfully. This has been one of the best improvements in my LR accuracy.

Good dies help alot too.

Jerry
 
The forend is now stiff, but your stock will still be limp wristed. I would put a 3/8 hole from the tang thru the wrist and epoxy a 3/8 bolt in it. Try bending the stock by pulling the ends with the middle over your knee. My bet is it will flex a lot, also twisting easily. Mark
 
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