oops
- Thread starter fyshstick
- Start date
Some new rifles come with these rods factory installed to reinforce weak areas of the stock. My Remington 600 has such rods in front of the mag well cut out and the trigger cut out. They're filled flush before finishing and I think they look quite good.
A friend of mine brought me a Mauser sporter that he wanted bedded. Big crack in front of the mag well, under the bottom metal. Wood expands and contracts with changes in humidity. The mag well and action do not. It's dry in Calgary. The stock shrank and cracked. I glued it, and hundreds of 7mm Rem mag rounds later, it's still together.
If an action is bedded properly, it will not move around in the stock and put pressure in certain areas, it acts more like a single piece. A brass rod is not going to prevent a wooden stock from cracking along the grain. It could help stop compression caused by recoil.
If an action is bedded properly, it will not move around in the stock and put pressure in certain areas, it acts more like a single piece. A brass rod is not going to prevent a wooden stock from cracking along the grain. It could help stop compression caused by recoil.
Lee Valley Tools sell a product called "Hot Stuff". There are two types. The first has a very low viscosity and will enter a break or crack by capillary action (no need to force the break open and there by risk a complete separation). This stuff actually soaks into the wood before it sets.The second type is a crack filler used where a sliver of wood is missing.One can also buy an accellerant which will cure the glue very quickly which is handy on wierd shapes where one cannot clamp properly.
+3 Titebond III wood glue. It is almost waterproof. Far more resistant to water than yellow glues.
Do not use urethane glues like Gorilla etc. They EXPAND when they cure and you don't always get a good joint unless you clamp VERY well. Even then it is difficult to get a perfect joint.
As for inserting a rod. Don't use a brass rod, they are quite weak relative to the diameter. Use stainless or if you wnat the best, large diameter titanium threaded rod epoxied into the hole.
Do not use urethane glues like Gorilla etc. They EXPAND when they cure and you don't always get a good joint unless you clamp VERY well. Even then it is difficult to get a perfect joint.
As for inserting a rod. Don't use a brass rod, they are quite weak relative to the diameter. Use stainless or if you wnat the best, large diameter titanium threaded rod epoxied into the hole.
the only problem with putting a rod in it is that the bolt holding the stock to the action goes from the butt to the action so there is not much room to put a rod in i will sign up for photobucket and post a pic of it now and than once i get it fixed it may take a while i dont get to the city very often and there is slim pickings for hardware related stuff in town
Get the sub floor adheisive that glues floors together in houses. And a couple of tastfully placed brass screws, held out a tad with a washer. then grind off the head when dry and flush it up with sandpaper. Predrill the hole first so it dont crack any around the screw.
Other than that, i got nothin................
Other than that, i got nothin................
I agree with ffwd, use good 'ol yellow carpenter's glue and glue it. Dry fit it first to make sure it all fits well, get some glue in there, spread it around, put it together and clamp or wrap it up. Yellow glue is stronger than the surrounding wood, so as long as there isn't excessive oil in the joint before glueing (new break, should be fine), the wood will break somewhere else before it breaks at that joint. After 30 minutes, take off the clamps, let it sit and cure for a day or 2, go shooting. Done.
You may need to trim or pull away a few of the fibers if they get in the way of closing up the joint fully. Try to keep this to an absolute minimum though. The more original the joint the better. You'll likely find that you need to sort of slide it together to get the various bits to intertwine back in. These points are the worst for bending over the fibers and jamming up an otherwise perfect joint match.
A good Tightbond wood glue joint properly fitted and clamped will be virtually invisible. And as mentioned this is more about getting the joint to fit back together as per before the accident. If you can't get things to line up perfectly then there's going to be a line. So work on that fit and make sure it'll go together well with the glue.
A good Tightbond wood glue joint properly fitted and clamped will be virtually invisible. And as mentioned this is more about getting the joint to fit back together as per before the accident. If you can't get things to line up perfectly then there's going to be a line. So work on that fit and make sure it'll go together well with the glue.
Rusty nails & Duct tape...As good as new!
gunrunner100
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- NW Ontario
Always works for me.
when i put the screwdriver in to remove the stock, the screwdriver got between the bolt and the stock and when i turned it, the stock split
Nice pictures but where is all the screws, tie wire or stove wire, nails, messy glue joints, duct tape, hammer marks from driving in the nails and all other bubba solutions.
Just kidding you did a great job. Have some fun shooting it and don't lend it to your buddies anymore.
Just kidding you did a great job. Have some fun shooting it and don't lend it to your buddies anymore.
