I was looking at some Briley Spectrums for my 625 Citori Field. Apparently if I use steel shot I have to go to the next biggest choke to maintain the same pattern. Anyways I need to get some chokes. I was looking at Briley, anybody know where you can get them or other alternatives? Their distributor in Canada Lawry sports has none in stock and just orders direct from Briley and makes you pay the shipping, I dont see the point in them being a dealer doing this. Anybody else stocking this choke or something just as good? Thanks
Aftermarket Chokes for Brownings?
- Thread starter USP
- Start date
patricksbb391
CGN Regular
- Location
- Ottawa & WMU 62
There is a wide range of aftermarket stuff to choose from, but you may want to look at Midwestern Gun Works on the net. They sell tons of factory stuff, including upgraded kit, at good prices.
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The gun came with Full, Modified and Improved Cylinder. According to the Browning manual I cant fire steel shot from the Full choke. It lists the coversion of making the Modified a Full choke without using high speed steel. With High speed it says use the next choke size up again.
So I bought a pair of Briley Light Modified Chokes which rate as Improved modified for use with Steel shot. I found Brownells had them cheaper than what everyone else was selling them for.
I thought the Light Modified might be a decent compromise. The Improved Cylinder was out of stock.
Pattern day is later this week when they arrive. Any tips on the best way to check the pattern? Range? I was going to try 30-40 yards and just use a large target to check spread. I take it its mostly a solid non dispersed mass of shot until its past about 12 yards right?
I realize that I have limited myself getting both the same choke. However I have no idea whether I will like to fire either top or bottom barrel first and alot of the other chokes were not in stock so went with something in the middle to start out with.
So I bought a pair of Briley Light Modified Chokes which rate as Improved modified for use with Steel shot. I found Brownells had them cheaper than what everyone else was selling them for.
I thought the Light Modified might be a decent compromise. The Improved Cylinder was out of stock.
Pattern day is later this week when they arrive. Any tips on the best way to check the pattern? Range? I was going to try 30-40 yards and just use a large target to check spread. I take it its mostly a solid non dispersed mass of shot until its past about 12 yards right?
I realize that I have limited myself getting both the same choke. However I have no idea whether I will like to fire either top or bottom barrel first and alot of the other chokes were not in stock so went with something in the middle to start out with.
Turkeyslayer 1300
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Russell, Ontario
I like Carlsons, much cheaper in most cases than the Briley and pattern just as well in my limited testing.
I like to use 40 inch wide "table cloth" type paper and cut it into 40x40 piece and fire one shot at each at 30 yards, most of your shooting will be within this distance, only test your best performing loads at 40 yards.As far as the shot being a solid mass at 12 yards, you will be surprised by the patterns you see. Spreading occurs very quickly, you should look for uniform patterns above all e.g. ones with no holes or patches.
When shooting an Over under there are two schools of thought as far as what barrel to fire first. Some like to shoot the tighter choked barrel first at the farthest birds and in theory the more open barrel at the now retreating closer birds, I found that this way I was typically shooting at longer distances than when I employed the second technique. The second technique is to shoot the more open barrell first at the closest bird and the tighter barrel at the now retreating farther bird. I prefer the second technique especially when after geese as you can land the first bird or two then scare them up for a close shot and then shoot at other birds with their paddles down.
I like to use 40 inch wide "table cloth" type paper and cut it into 40x40 piece and fire one shot at each at 30 yards, most of your shooting will be within this distance, only test your best performing loads at 40 yards.As far as the shot being a solid mass at 12 yards, you will be surprised by the patterns you see. Spreading occurs very quickly, you should look for uniform patterns above all e.g. ones with no holes or patches.
When shooting an Over under there are two schools of thought as far as what barrel to fire first. Some like to shoot the tighter choked barrel first at the farthest birds and in theory the more open barrel at the now retreating closer birds, I found that this way I was typically shooting at longer distances than when I employed the second technique. The second technique is to shoot the more open barrell first at the closest bird and the tighter barrel at the now retreating farther bird. I prefer the second technique especially when after geese as you can land the first bird or two then scare them up for a close shot and then shoot at other birds with their paddles down.
I got the Brileys for about $40 each so figured it wasnt to bad of a deal. The factory chokes were only a few dollars cheaper.
What I have to pattern is the following
3" #2's Remington Fast steel
3" BB Federal Black Cloud
2 3/4 #2 Winchester Extended range
2 3/4 #2 Challengers
Hope this gives me a decent mix for Geese and maybe a Duck.
Should be a nice change over patterning Tactial Buckshot. I could get dinner plate size groups at 50 yards with my 14 inch gun, cylinder with Federal 00 Tactical buck.
IF I have large holes or "clumping" of shot, does this mean that its more likely the gun just doesnt like this type of shot? Or is it a choke issue? Or abit of both? This would be say at 30 yards. I should have a fairly uniform spread ideally right?
I have heard that on Brownings the POA can be about 5 inch or so difference from the centre of the POI. Are most factory guns based on the covergence of both barrels at 40yards as well?
What I have to pattern is the following
3" #2's Remington Fast steel
3" BB Federal Black Cloud
2 3/4 #2 Winchester Extended range
2 3/4 #2 Challengers
Hope this gives me a decent mix for Geese and maybe a Duck.
Should be a nice change over patterning Tactial Buckshot. I could get dinner plate size groups at 50 yards with my 14 inch gun, cylinder with Federal 00 Tactical buck.
IF I have large holes or "clumping" of shot, does this mean that its more likely the gun just doesnt like this type of shot? Or is it a choke issue? Or abit of both? This would be say at 30 yards. I should have a fairly uniform spread ideally right?
I have heard that on Brownings the POA can be about 5 inch or so difference from the centre of the POI. Are most factory guns based on the covergence of both barrels at 40yards as well?
Turkeyslayer 1300
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Russell, Ontario
If you are getting "clumping" try switching chokes, it may be the shells, the choke or the gun. Ideally you want to have more or less even coverage. If you are targeting geese and ducks you will want a load/choke combination that will provide patterns with no holelarger than about two inches, this will mean that if you center the bird wing bones will be broken or it will be hit in the head/ neck or other vitals.
Also you are more likley to " fringe" a bird with a tighter choke, if you are slightly ahead or behind the bird the flyer pellets that are not part of the main shot cloud could hit the bird causing wounds that do not disable or immediately kill the bird. Where as with a more open choke the shot cloud will be more even producing fewer flyers and a wider pattern so if you are in front or behind your chances of connecting with more pellets are better given some shooter error.
I wish I could draw out what I am trying to explain.
Bob Brister once wrote that improved cylinder choke goes to hell slowly and full choke goes to hell all at once. You are better off with Skeet - Light modified chokes when you are shooting steel.
For Geese should I just aim for the head? I realize headshots are frowned upon for other game, but is it better for a bird so theres less potential meat damage? Or is there a better more ideal place to aim for?
The hunt Im going on will be birds in either corn fields or near a small river.
The hunt Im going on will be birds in either corn fields or near a small river.
Depending on the angle, speed of the bird and distance, you may need to shoot several feet in front of the bird. The reason is that the bird is a moving target and by the time you pull the trigger and your shot gets to the bird, it has moved several feet. If you do not believe me, go shoot some skeet.
Turkeyslayer 1300
CGN Ultra frequent flyer
- Location
- Russell, Ontario
With a shotgun chances are if you are hitting the bird in the head you are also hitting it through the body as well. Shooting steel most of the pellets tend either to pass through the bird or stick in the breast bones or guts.Shooting the BB's you should be fine, the pellet entry holes tend to get feathers stuck in them but it is a small matter to pick them out and you can track the pellets through the meat by following the holes if you are concerned about dental damage.
I tend to try and center the bird, some people like to focus on the head I have never had a problem with meat loss, I lose more meat from the birds hitting the ground and rupturing internally than from pellets. Head and neck shot geese tend to bleed out alot while those shot through the body will bleed internally. What you want to try and avoid is a bird that gets hit with one or two pellets, unless you break a wing the bird will keep on trucking or glide away and die of a lung shot in much the same way deer will run for a long time but are essentailly dead on their feet.
I called their toll free number today,and they took my order for extended choke tubes for my new 20 Gauge citori.
I ordered extended choke tubes for my 28 gauge a couple of months ago,and I had the chokes in less than two weeks.
You should pattern the ic and mod that you got with your gun. They will probably be O.K. It does not really matter if you shoot the top or bottom first. It may help to decide if it is to your advantage to shoot the more open or tighter choke first. In truth if this is one of your first shoots, I would rather concentrate on shooting instead of the tubes in the gun. If you are with a more experienced gunner, stay close and trust him/her to call the shots that are within range of your set up. Briley in Canada is useless. Order direct. You will like those LM spectrums. Don't worry if both barrels are choked the same. The geese really don't care. The ability to have different choked barrels is more of an advantage in some of those outrageous pairs presentations in sporting clays. Sporting allows one to pick his break point. In a hunting situation one rarely gets to decide the exact distance a shot will be taken. You already have enough gun, enough choke and good enough ammo to kill anything within reasonable range if you do your part.
Shoot for the head.
One or two pellets in the head will bring him down dead! One or two pellets in the neck will probably bring him down. Numerous pellets in the body may not bring the goose down unless a wing gets broken as well. A goose shot into the innards going away will surley die, but may go a long way before it falls. Concentrate on the shot and don't worry about loss of meat unless the bird is really close and then that is the best time to go for the head.
I ordered two extended SKEET chokes today,as well as extended IC,MOD,and FULL,since my gun only came with two flush fitting skeet tubes.I only ordered a FULL to use if I decide to shoot a few rounds of trap.I generally hunt with IC and MOD.When you purchase five Briley chokes,you get a sixth one at no extra cost,so I chose the LM,as the extra choke.
####!! Thier website is stupid, its setup to make all Canadian customers not order off them. Thanks for the info guys. Any future chokes Ill buy direct. I do get a wholesale cost at Brownells so the price on the Spectrums was $42 which seems better than what Brileys list them for.
