Reloading for the M14

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Iron Sighted

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Ok guys, I've decided that I want to get in to reloading, and I want to start with handloading for my M14. My question is do I want to neck size or full length size my brass when loading for the M14?? Trying to get this figured out as I want to buy the reloading kit and die(s) tomorrow. Any input and explanations will be appreciated.

Thanks
 
Iron Sighted said:
Ok guys, I've decided that I want to get in to reloading, and I want to start with handloading for my M14. My question is do I want to neck size or full length size my brass when loading for the M14?? Trying to get this figured out as I want to buy the reloading kit and die(s) tomorrow. Any input and explanations will be appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...

You need a full length die set
At a later date you can pick up a single neck sizer die

if you want to neck size (depending on load / the chamber of you rifle )
you might be able to neck size 3-4 times then on the 4 or 5 time you will need to full length size again

your other choice is when you full length size you do not push back the shoulder on the in between loads

So you use the full length die but screw out the die 1/16 or 3/64 from cam over when sizing brass
 
Neck sizing is all I know for my USGI (real US issued converted FA) M14's since their chambers were well over the 10 thou average Norinco-plinko chamber. My clearest recollection was my TRW had a 15 thou chamber. My Winchester M14 had a 13 thou chamber, Darn... I'm getting old.

None of my M14's were under 10 thou! EVER! All the people I encountered at the Toronto Gun Shows (OACA) told me that my :eek: #### would fall off if I necksized! :nest:

That was before I had kids. My boys are 22 and 20 years old now, and my #### is still here. :) :evil:

Flame Suit ON :ar15:

Cheers,
Barney
 
Mysticplayer says the same thing about neck sizing for the M14. Zediker seems to think that FL is best though. Ugh! I FL personally. From what I've read it has to do with the case shoulder being deformed because it's not sitting stationary and locked in the chamber like a bolt gun. Apparently, the oprod is already pushing the case out when it's cleared the gas hole in the barrel while it's still hot and expanding. So it's not really fireformed to the chamber. Can anyone confirm this?
 
Wow, thats spooky. Second time that it has happened to me where I have logged on to post a question and someone has beaten me to it only hours before. GET OUT OF MY HEAD!!!!:runaway:

Just to stir the pot, when I was looking at dies today and mentioned to the proprietor that I was wanting to reload for a semi auto he said I HAD to FL size with a Small Case sizer. Was a little confused as to what this even was let alone if it was necessary.

Watching this thread with much interest.
 
we should have a sticky for the what to do and not to do for reloading for the m14. We do have a few guys on this site with lot's of hours behind thier rifles with home rolled ammo.
 
I am new to reloading and have started making some rounds for the M14. I have a LEE Pacesetter full length die set and I seem to get pretty good results with the ammo I have made.
My understanding is that by full length sizing you are streatching the brass back and forth more causing it to fatigue faster, ie shooting it in an oversized M14 chamber then sizing it way back down to factory specs. It might affect accuracy somewhat but the biggest concern is how many reloads your overworked brass will last for.
That is a good idea though to back the sizing die out a bit, I will try that this weekend and see how it works.
For right now I am contentwith the procedure and product but thats probably because I am just a newb reloader. I may look for a neck sizer in the future though.
Cheers
 
"...HAD to FL size with a Small Case sizer..." FL resizing is required, but you don't need a Small Base sizer die. FL resizing is required if you use brand new, once fired or the same brass in two rifles as well.
The only difference between a semi(or lever or pump gun) and a bolt action is the FL resizing and watching the case lengths. You don't need CCI "milspec" primers or a crimp.
 
Hungry said:
Neck sizing is all I know for my USGI (real US issued converted FA) M14's since their chambers were well over the 10 thou average Norinco-plinko chamber. My clearest recollection was my TRW had a 15 thou chamber. My Winchester M14 had a 13 thou chamber, Darn... I'm getting old.

None of my M14's were under 10 thou! EVER! All the people I encountered at the Toronto Gun Shows (OACA) told me that my :eek: #### would fall off if I necksized! :nest:

That was before I had kids. My boys are 22 and 20 years old now, and my #### is still here. :) :evil:

Flame Suit ON :ar15:

Cheers,
Barney
Click to expand...
Congratulations on your ####-retention.:p Mine seems to have ejection issues unless I full-length or use hot neck resize loads.
 
Hey, just to let you guys know, I can help you out with brass, dies, powder, primers & presses & tooling. I also have surplus .308 Win ammo. As cheap as reloading.
Regards, Henry
 
I just picked up a set of dillion FL .308 dies for my 650...

I wouldn't mind tightening up my rifle a bit and making sure that nothing is going to go kaboom when I bring a big box of ammo to make noise with.
 
I had headspace issues with my norc, so I necksized only. Once I got my TRW bolt (thanks Hungry) I went back to full length sizing and use the same rounds for both my M14 and my AR10 and just keep seperate rounds for my boltgun
 
My Reload Story

At first, I succumbed to all the hype about headspace etc. Bought gauges and attended Hungry's Clinic. Mine shoots fine and there was nothing to worry about, unless my goal was match shooting, which I have not any illusions (delusions??) about.

I have gotten some incredibly tight groups with my recipe. I full length resize and leave about 0.005" for the resize. I neck trim, using the case tolerance measurements found in most reloading manuals. I full size due to the fact that I have a tight chamber already and not much effort to resize.

My best recipe is 150 gr hornady BTSP's, 250 magnum primers, Win 748 @ 45.5 gr. Another good one is using 4064 @ 43.5. Win powder seems to shoot much better (groups) and there is less debris in barrel and piston to clean out after.

Also, Win 748 seems to produce better groups in colder weather. Another interesting observation was the comparison between factory (Rem and Win) ammo, 150 grs. There was slightly more case deformation and in a few rounds, signs of excessive pressure. The 748 recipe has consistent casing measurements and very little pressure deformation.

I use the magnum primers due to the extra charge (supposedly) but more so for the harder primer. Standard primers tend to be a bit softer and I have noticed differences in how the firing pin strikes the primer.

I am still experimenting with loads and will keep everyone posted. I did note somewhere in the published data that the M14's are designed to function at 2,700 fps to 2,800 fps. I shoot for just over the 2,700 range, based on powder charges.

Most of all, these are my recipes, which I have tailored for my rifle are based on my observations, reloading data and the specs for factory and NATO rounds (which are completely different). Your rifle is going to be different, so work up loads and then compare with mine. It would be foolish to start with my loads just because that is what I do. Besides, tailoring your custom load is half the fun.

Happy shooting :D
 
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